90 240sx wont start ka24e

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justy90240sx
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Car: 90 240sx se, 95 240sx, 92 300zx

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i just replaced the timing chain, gears, guides,and tensioner. it ran for 36 mi afterwards(ran great). it has fire, it seems week(orange not blue) it jumps the coil wire fine distributar cap and bug new. compression is 130 give or take 10 psi. done a leakdown and it holds. the plugs are definatly wet so i think its getting fuel (smells flooded). but i am at a complete lose i tried everything i could thing. if anyone has words of advice i would appreciate it.


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James@CI
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Mine did the same thing before I swaped it.What mine was is the coil.I replaced it and it ran great used the new coil and distributor for 20 min before I pulled the motor.If you think this is your problem I still have both I would sell you for cheap.

justy90240sx
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i tryied pulling the coil wire and i jumped a good 2in and was blue coil it still be that u think. i was considering crank angle or maf

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James@CI
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MAF no crank angle mabye just have to check it.But if the coil is firing when you crank it I would not say crank angle because if it was bad the coil and injectors would not fire.As far as the coil when it did run before it stoped runing did it start to run like the timing was messed up.Then if you let it set for a good while it would start up like nothing ever happend then it would just stop again till it got to the point were it would not even start.

justy90240sx
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Car: 90 240sx se, 95 240sx, 92 300zx

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is there an easy way to check the cank angle sensor, i cant find a resistance reading in the manual. and any other advice u have man im stumped. and i can normaly trouble shoot and find almost any problem but this one has beat me as of now. if got 10 hrs of back tracking wires, grounds, vacuum hoses. do u think it could be fluiding out from a sensor cause if i crank if just a few times while testing it i fills with fuel. theres new plugs,wires.cap,bug,injectors,timing chain, gears, tensioner, and guides

justy90240sx
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does any one know if the crusie control can malfunction and cause it not to start

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James@CI
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Well haha the best way to test the sencer is with a waveform viewer but you can do it with a mulimeter like a fluk but its not as good.The cruse controll just holds the throttle open so if their is a problem their then it would be from your TPS.You can check it out with a multi meter as well by checking the voltage.Check from closed to full open look for a flat spot somewere.

driftneil
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The cruise control wont engauge untill 35 miles an hour
justy90240sx wrote:does any one know if the crusie control can malfunction and cause it not to start
(might not be the right mph) But nom the less it wont mess with the starting or flooding in your case.

justy90240sx
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will i test it at the disributer conector? i appriciate the info anyhing else you can suggest i will defenatly try. between the cam chain work and this problem if got way to many hours in it and starting to get frustrated. a little more info about the car it has a cold air intake(goes down under bumper) and a straight exhaust from exhaust manifold back without a cat and has a glass pack( i dont like it but i bought the car with it. could that have an affect u think

justy90240sx
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any other suggestions (driftneil) im desperate appriciate the help

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James@CI
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Well if the exhaust has been messed with by someone else and it is flooding that bad I would check your O2 sensor it could be bad.Testing at the distributor would be an easy.O and something else it could be is the control module its right beside the coil on the same bracket.

justy90240sx
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thanx for all the help man. the module is in the same bracket as the ignition coil u say right? it still has a co2 on it but i could be bad. but i thought if a co2 was bad it would still run just in a fail safe mode, or run horribly

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James@CI
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Well see your ecu has two full trims short and long term.The short term is like instent like while you take off let off back in forth.But your long term full trim is a percentage of the trim well if the long term full trim is high then it will flood at all times.You can try to reset the ecu and see if that helps.If it is wronge even if you do replace the O2 you would still need to reset the ECU.To do this just diconnect the negative from the battery then the positive and leave disconnected for 30sec.Then connect the positive then the negative.

justy90240sx
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well i will try all your advice. i have a friend with the same car(running) im going to try switchin parts out to find it.

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James@CI
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Alright good look with it all.If there is anything else fill free to ask me anytime.

justy90240sx
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ok so last right i replaced the coil and maf sensor(with no luck). i checked fuel pressure, cam timing, voltage to maf, crank angle and ignition timing with a light (just to be sure). i still have no luck the only thing that seemed fishy was, if im correct there should be AC current coming out of the crank angle sensor while cranking (i think it was 2 green wire with tracers, and there wasnt any voltage. is it common to have a crank angle sensor go out, the only other thing i can think of is maybe the ECM? any suggestions or info
Modified by justy90240sx at 7:36 AM 1/24/2008

justy90240sx
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i am still in dyer need of suggestions. if anyone out there has any idea let me know

justy90240sx
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i guess no one has enough experiance to know whats wrong.

goeatpaiste
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check your timing and check it again. 130 seems like kind of low compression, are you sure the chain is on right? My tensioner went bad and my chain jumped 1/2 a link. the car still ran, and really i didnt notice for a while. compression was about 120. i took her all back apart and put the old tensioner back on *the broken one was the new one* realigned the chain and now shes mint.

stevo

justy90240sx
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Car: 90 240sx se, 95 240sx, 92 300zx

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when i put the new chain in i also replaced the the tensioner, gears, and guids. when i timed it i had number one cylinder on TDCC. then lined the colored links on the chain with the dots on the gears. since then it drove 36mi then broke. after braking i have checked timming by taking the valve cover of then back to TDCC on 1 and the dot in cam sprocket is where it should be. i have also used known good parts to try and find the problem, ecm, ignition coil. maf. distributer. and i am at a lose if u have any more suggestion i would appreciate it. i am about ready to take it to a shop!

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James@CI
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The only thing I can think of that would be left would be the ignition control module.If you would like to try that I have one that I would sell to you for just a few dollers.It is good that I know I pulled it from my very own when I did my swap.

justy90240sx
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ignition control module? where is it located at on the car?

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James@CI
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Its right beside the Coil on the same bracket.

justy90240sx
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can a controll module be bad and still fire?

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240sxmech
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If you had a bad crank angle sensor or control module you would get no spark. Check to see if your rotor is pointing on number one when you are at TDC. Also if your coolant temp switch goes bad it will make it hella rich,try holding down the throttle while you crank it over and see if it fires up.

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James@CI
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240sxmech is right if it was bad it would not spark I forgot that it was getting spark sorry.

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trahc
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Car: 93 Nissan 240sx se

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you said you are getting fire to the distributer but are you getting it out of it? how wet are the plugs? does the oil smell gassey?

justy90240sx
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i took it to the shop yesterday so as soon as i know ill let you all know

jeng22
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Car: nissan 240

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did the same thing on mine, got good spark, good fuel pressure, engine flooded, found out was a bad coolant temp sensor(for computer) causing injectors to overspray and flood the engine, it ran after i replaced it and never had any problems since then, $30 fix, try this and it might help.

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240sxmech
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Justy90240sx why didnt you do what i said and hold the throttle and let me know if it finally fired up after stumbling for a little, if it did that then you are flooding and probably due to a bad coolant temp sensor for the computer not the gauge or possibly some injectors staying open . When i built my motor it was at 240,000 miles and I knew the previous owner didnt due anything so i replaced it anyways because they are common for going out, little things on these cars are notorious for doing that. They are older cars and it comes with the territory. Easy way to check the injectors is with a fuel pressure gauge, if you turn the key on and pressure drops you have a leaky injector but also use a noid light and if it lights up with just the key on and not trying to start then your computer is holding them open and need to replace it.Trust me im a mechanic and come across these problems atleast once a week at my shop. So test before you send to a shop if you know how or just ask but I see youve already dropped it at a shop so let me know what they find before you tell them to do any repairs. Any more info you need from me just ask and I shall help you out.Sorry for the long reply .....


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