'90 240SX S13 Driveline/Clutch Question?

[pgtrr]

'90 240SX S13 Driveline/Clutch Question?

Hello,

I have a 1990 S13 w/ KA24E engine (4cyl 24V SOHC) and am about to put it's first clutch in this 1-owner, 100K+ mi, garage kept creampuff. Looks to be a straightforward job hopefully w/o 'too' many gotchas but I sure don't appreciate the dealer's anti-rust junk slathered underneath - after 13 yrs it's like cement! Never again will I get a car w/ this.

Anyway as to my question... On the driveshaft - what is the best or recommended point to separate it from the tailshaft of the transmission? It's some sort of 2-piece arrangement w/ a center 'joint' mounted to the chassis. Do I simply unbolt it at the differential, drop the center piece bracket and slide it out of the transmission tailshaft? Appreciate any recommendations from more experienced members as to what to unbolt for ease/convenience etc... (Yes I'll mark it to re-install the same but see below...)

Is the pilot shaft gizmo a 'bearing' or 'bushing' on this car and if it's a bearing is there any trick to getting it out of there? I cannot ever seem to find pullers small enough. Bushings usually come out for me w/ the grease trick.

Is there a seal on the transmission shaft that is recommended to be replaced?

Anything else I should do while I'm putting a clutch kit in?

Any particular brands or kits folks like or warn to avoid? - nothing performance for me - just good OE type new quality is all - maybe Back-Arnley or something similar.

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Also, while on the topic of driveshafts - I have noticed a bit of a vibration coming up from the 'middle' of the car more or less including the shifter itself and mostly at highway speeds. Sometimes a subtle thud when engaging the clutch or shifting. Tires are new & balanced.

In most cars I would suspect a failing driveshaft ujoint. However can't notice anything obvious wrong w/ the 1 ujoint at the differential end. I can't tell much of anything on the 'middle' joint or the rubber thing at the tailshaft...?

And the axle half-shafts have CV joints - boots appear to be fine - 'bout all I can tell.

Can that rubber 'joint' be serviced?

What about that middle 'joint' bolted to the chassis?

What about the transmission mount(s)?

The driveshaft itself doesn't show any signs of a balance weight or something coming off and I can't feel any movement or slop other than gear slop itself.

Bottom line is now that I'm under the car - I'm not seeing any obvious or likely culprits for a 'vibration' at cruise or mild 'thunk' when taking up the clutch from a stop or sometimes a shift. I was really expecting a sloppy ujoint. Maybe a worn pilot bearing could account for some of this? There is a bit of slop in the transmission and differential both but not what I would consider out of the ordinary for a 13 year old car like this. Reading thru various FAQs and doing a search on this forum didn't provide any more suggestions... ideas? I'm kinda stumped at this point on possible options here for ferreting out the vibration and minor clunk.

I suppose I could have a driveshaft made - not 'too' expensive that seems pretty drastic for something that I'm not sure 100% is the problem.

thanks!-T

[GroundZero]

'90 240SX S13 Driveline/Clutch Question?

1) On the driveshaft - what is the best or recommended point to separate it from the tailshaft of the transmission? It's some sort of 2-piece arrangement w/ a center 'joint' mounted to the chassis. Do I simply unbolt it at the differential, drop the center piece bracket and slide it out of the transmission tailshaft?

2) Is the pilot shaft gizmo a 'bearing' or 'bushing' on this car and if it's a bearing is there any trick to getting it out of there? I cannot ever seem to find pullers small enough. Bushings usually come out for me w/ the grease trick.

3) Is there a seal on the transmission shaft that is recommended to be replaced?

4) Anything else I should do while I'm putting a clutch kit in?

5) Any particular brands or kits folks like or warn to avoid? - nothing performance for me - just good OE type new quality is all - maybe Back-Arnley or something similar.

1) at the joint where the 2 drive shaft peices connect

2) on my 1991 it was a bushing type, i don't know bout the sohc's

3) the Rear extension housing seal, where the drive shaft enters the transmission

4) check the rear main seal behind the flywheel

5) Napa makes good parts, if your going for oem than napa is your best place to shop, i got my complete exedy clutch kit off of ebay for cheap, i'm satisfied.

[NISTECH]

All nissan rwd vehicles use a pilot bushing not a bearing.

That 2 piece arrangement in the center of the driveshaft is called a center support bearing. and this is your culprit causeing the vibration and most likely the thump when shifting and take off. the part is replaceable and can be purchased at the dealer as a seperate part.

other things to check

check the trans mount once you have it out. look for cracks or fluid saturation. check your shifter area where the shifter plate bolts to the trans for fluid leaks. check your switches for leaks.

[pgtrr]

Thanks Folks! Great info. I had a sneaking hunch that center joint could be a culprit - any standard method to verify or just replace as preventative maintenance. May just do the rubber 'rag joint' at the front end of the shaft as well.

thanks!

[pgtrr]

NISTECH:

2 Questions:

1) The center support bearing of the two piece driveshaft is encased in a thick soft rubber donut insulator of some sort. It spins easily and I don't feel any obvious play to the touch. However when I just hold the shaft and spin it there is a very obvious eccentric (wobble) to the rubber donut. Now you have to keep in mind that this is a very soft rubber pliable 'shell' to whatever is inside and this is firmly held in place by a metal bracket to the chassis. I don't know if this is normal (since it's so soft) or not?

2) Will most standard pilot bushing pullers work on the Nissan bushing?

thanks again!

[NISTECH]

#1 if it is easy to push the shaft up and down while it is mounted in the car it is too soft. also visually if it seems to be sitting nearly at the bottom of the tunnel that too indicates it is no good. #2 yes