I just had my chain & guides replaced and completed Wednesday after a few complications.
90 240sx 5 speed 119,xxx miles no A/C
The first complication was the timing was way off and caused the car to have almost NO power. I drove it about 2 miles (10 minutes - traffic stop & go) like this before I took it back to the shop (which belongs to a friend of mine). In addition to the lack of power, it started overheating at idle - but would cool down when driving.
They double checked the timing and set it right and the power was back again. We all figured the timing being off had to do with it overheating. However yesterday when I drove home (about 60 miles from he shop) I got home and lifted the hood and noticed coolant bubbling in the reserve tank. The weird thing is that the whole time I was watching the temperature gauge and it never once went past "normal". Even more weird, it seemed to bubble more with the car OFF than with it on...just like it did when the timing was off.
Today when I drove it to the shop and opened the hood when I go there, there was no boiling. I do know there's a small hole in the reserve tank - I'm waiting for Nissan to send me my replacement, so there's duct tape over it in the mean time. When I drove home from the shop today it REALLY started to heat up almost to "h" especially when going up a slight incline. When I ran the heater, it would calm down and go back to normal. I kept the heat on and it never overheated again.
I get home, and turn the car off and it starts bubbling from the reserve tank again. I noticed the upper radiator hose was signifigantly hotter than the lower hose. Though the lower hose was warm, it wasn't too hot to touch.
The first time it overheated (when the timing was off), my coworker diagnosed it as a fan clutch. His procedure was starting the car and holding his finger in the way of the fan to keep it from spinning. He said once the clutch engages, then he won't be able to hold the fan any longer because it would overpower him. It' never did, and the reserve tank started to boil...Though the temperature gauge was normal.
The only other thing he could figure was a thermostat. I have a new fan clutch and thermostat waiting for install but after my searching, I see that this doesn't solve a lot of overheating problems. I keep seeing headgasket pop up in threads, but I never had this problem before the timing chain was done.
The water pump was replaced with the timing chain. The thermostat was NOT replaced. With the complications (some not listed), the coolant was drained and refilled maybe 2-3 times within 2 days time. I don't recall seeing him do any bleeding procedure, but I didn't see everything he did either so he may have done the procedure and I just missed it.
The idle is smooth as glass until the car has been warmed and then driven for about 10 minutes. Then at a stoplight, it'll have this deep/faint sounding rough idle, but not REALLY rough, just a little. At that time, the RPM goes up to 1000 - 1200 rpm, but goes down with a tap of the accelerator. I also notice the accelerator sticks when the car is running hot as well - and no other time.
Any ideas with my specific issue?
90 240sx overheating issue -after searching-
1 check the air flow coming off the fan. will it suck a peice of paper against the radiator from the front or blow it away. I have seen the fan installed backwards before.
2 could be the thermostat is toast as suspected.
3 the gauge not climbing could be due to air in the cooling system. get a burp funnel from the local ports house and try bleading it on an incline.
and finally if none of those items seem to be the problem you may have a restriction in your radiator.
The overflow bubbling after the car is shut down does not indicate a blown head gasket. you have a flow problem in the system.
2 could be the thermostat is toast as suspected.
3 the gauge not climbing could be due to air in the cooling system. get a burp funnel from the local ports house and try bleading it on an incline.
and finally if none of those items seem to be the problem you may have a restriction in your radiator.
The overflow bubbling after the car is shut down does not indicate a blown head gasket. you have a flow problem in the system.
-
gniknave
- Posts: 4761
- Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2004 10:25 pm
- Car: 2000 Audi A6 2.8 Quattro
2008 Honda Civic EX (Sedan) - Location: Newport, Kentucky
Re: (NISTECH)
Ok I started on my car at 10:30 this morning, replaced the thermostat, replaced the fan clutch, drained and refilled the cooling system about 3 times because of complications (spotted leaking hose and had to open everything back up again), and I took it up a big hill and it STILL overheats!
I had the front of the car on ramps to simulate an incline. I first filled up the radiator with coolant/water (distilled), then I topped off the reserve bottle. I then put a funnel in the radiator neck and put a little coolant in it and started the car and let it run til it hit the normal range.
After that I shut the car off and checked the reserve level again. I then went and drove it around the city for a while - which it would creep a LITTLE but only to the point where I'd wonder if the temp gauge really moved, or if it's just mental. Then I tried the hill. This is a BIG hill that goes for a long time. Once I got to the center of it, the gauge was up to 2 ticks before "H". I then turned the heater on, and it slowly started to creep down.
I got back into town and turned the heater off and the car would heat up at stoplights, but not BADLY. I get home and park in the driveway for a while and let it idle while checking to see if anything was bubbling. The upper and lower hoses were equally hot, the reserve tank was at the normal level and there was no sign of any spillage from the reserve.
I turned the car off and checked under the hood again, because remember this is when it would boil. It didn't boil. I did notice that in the reserve bottle there was a bubble that would pop up every other second as if the hose that's connected to it was putting air inside or something.
After checking, I started the car again. Keep in mind the car was still parked on an incline. I noticed the temperature was one tick before "H", but it was normal when I parked and let the car sit while running. So I was pretty puzzled by this. But once I drove into the garage the temperature SHOT down to almost normal within a matter of seconds (my garage is flat).
A few details:The idle intermittently goes up to 1200 rpm when the car is running hot.
I didn't run the heater AT ALL when I burped the system. Does that matter?
The MIL light came on when I was driving. Though it comes on a lot and goes off because of a vacuum leak in my intake hose (my new hose is coming Monday). But maybe there's another code there?
I removed the radiator and ran 2.5 bottles of distilled water through it to get all the bad stuff out.
Question: On the KA24E, is there a bleeder screw on the intake that I'm supposed to unscrew?
Also, how long should I run the car when burping the system?
I had the front of the car on ramps to simulate an incline. I first filled up the radiator with coolant/water (distilled), then I topped off the reserve bottle. I then put a funnel in the radiator neck and put a little coolant in it and started the car and let it run til it hit the normal range.
After that I shut the car off and checked the reserve level again. I then went and drove it around the city for a while - which it would creep a LITTLE but only to the point where I'd wonder if the temp gauge really moved, or if it's just mental. Then I tried the hill. This is a BIG hill that goes for a long time. Once I got to the center of it, the gauge was up to 2 ticks before "H". I then turned the heater on, and it slowly started to creep down.
I got back into town and turned the heater off and the car would heat up at stoplights, but not BADLY. I get home and park in the driveway for a while and let it idle while checking to see if anything was bubbling. The upper and lower hoses were equally hot, the reserve tank was at the normal level and there was no sign of any spillage from the reserve.
I turned the car off and checked under the hood again, because remember this is when it would boil. It didn't boil. I did notice that in the reserve bottle there was a bubble that would pop up every other second as if the hose that's connected to it was putting air inside or something.
After checking, I started the car again. Keep in mind the car was still parked on an incline. I noticed the temperature was one tick before "H", but it was normal when I parked and let the car sit while running. So I was pretty puzzled by this. But once I drove into the garage the temperature SHOT down to almost normal within a matter of seconds (my garage is flat).
A few details:The idle intermittently goes up to 1200 rpm when the car is running hot.
I didn't run the heater AT ALL when I burped the system. Does that matter?
The MIL light came on when I was driving. Though it comes on a lot and goes off because of a vacuum leak in my intake hose (my new hose is coming Monday). But maybe there's another code there?
I removed the radiator and ran 2.5 bottles of distilled water through it to get all the bad stuff out.
Question: On the KA24E, is there a bleeder screw on the intake that I'm supposed to unscrew?
Also, how long should I run the car when burping the system?
Ok I assumed you knew how to bleed the car properly,my mistake.
When filling it before starting it there is a screw on the front of the intake manifold near the temp sensors, usually has a small sticker next to it. has a small brass washer under it. you remove that screw and fill it till a steady stream of coolant comes out that screw hole. Then you put the screw back in and top the radiator. Car is on an incline btw. install the bleeder funnel fill it about half way. Start the car and turn the heater on full heat and full fan speed. let the car idle till it reaches op temp. once it is in that area goose the throttle,let it come back and stabilize at idle,then goose it again,let it idle for a couple mins. Do this for about 10 or 15 mins after it reaches op temp. Just keep repeating the steps. The key here is to let it settle at idle between each goose. Without the radiator cap on the system can't really build up pressure so the goosing of the throttle from idle gives it a bit of pressure by speeding up the pump sharply[going from idle to high rpm instantaniously]. A sastianed high rpm will not achive that same effect. When you goose it you are snaping the throttle to around 4 or 5k rpm. You dont gradually apply the pedal to bring it to that rpm, you romp on it and let off.
When filling it before starting it there is a screw on the front of the intake manifold near the temp sensors, usually has a small sticker next to it. has a small brass washer under it. you remove that screw and fill it till a steady stream of coolant comes out that screw hole. Then you put the screw back in and top the radiator. Car is on an incline btw. install the bleeder funnel fill it about half way. Start the car and turn the heater on full heat and full fan speed. let the car idle till it reaches op temp. once it is in that area goose the throttle,let it come back and stabilize at idle,then goose it again,let it idle for a couple mins. Do this for about 10 or 15 mins after it reaches op temp. Just keep repeating the steps. The key here is to let it settle at idle between each goose. Without the radiator cap on the system can't really build up pressure so the goosing of the throttle from idle gives it a bit of pressure by speeding up the pump sharply[going from idle to high rpm instantaniously]. A sastianed high rpm will not achive that same effect. When you goose it you are snaping the throttle to around 4 or 5k rpm. You dont gradually apply the pedal to bring it to that rpm, you romp on it and let off.
-
93180sxredtop
- Posts: 100
- Joined: Tue Nov 02, 2004 9:34 am
- Car: 93 240sx sr20det
srry for stealling your thunder but i have a problem also:
I have a sr and it over heats as of lately ive changed the thermostat the water pump and clutch fan and fixed some leaks that i found now it still over heats and have white smoke coming from the tail pipe ..... i know head gasket but did a compression check 155 across the board shold i go for a leak down test or do u guys have any other suggestions?????
srry i think i forgot these,,,,,,........ some where!!
I have a sr and it over heats as of lately ive changed the thermostat the water pump and clutch fan and fixed some leaks that i found now it still over heats and have white smoke coming from the tail pipe ..... i know head gasket but did a compression check 155 across the board shold i go for a leak down test or do u guys have any other suggestions?????
srry i think i forgot these,,,,,,........ some where!!
-
gniknave
- Posts: 4761
- Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2004 10:25 pm
- Car: 2000 Audi A6 2.8 Quattro
2008 Honda Civic EX (Sedan) - Location: Newport, Kentucky
OK I followed the CORRECT bleeding procedure just as you said, and actually saw it in my owners manual too. After doing the procedure I took it around town and it didn't overheat. Then I took it to the same hill as yesterday, and it STILL overheated.
Frustration is mounting. I got home and parked in my driveway (incline) and left the motor running while checking under the hood. I saw no leaks, and no boiling. I shut the car off and checked again. There was no boiling what-so-ever, not even the intermittent air bubble coming from the reserve tank like yesterday. Upper and lower hoses equally hot.
I'm not sure of the exact procedure for checking ECU codes (last time I did it was on my Q, and it's been a while). But I checked it by turning the screw all the way around (not forcing it though), and then reading the blinks.
If the procedure was right, I have codes: 23, 45, & 1 (1 seems a litle weird though).
I checked my oil level, and it's perfect and the oil is clean as it's been changed 2 times in the past week, 4 times int he past month - all with new filters for various reasons. At this point I'm stumped.
Note:
The cars overheating is triggered when I go up a big hill. Once I'm off the hill, the car will intermittently run hot, but won't overheat.
Never had this problem before having the chain, guides, and waterpump replaced.
I'm planning on tackling my Q's chain guides by myself to save the money, but the plan was to have a perfect running 240 before hand just in case I kill the Q in the process Looks like it happened the other way around. Oh and No, I didn't do the 240's chain myself - I had an independent import shop of a friend of mine do it.
EDIT: I searched and saw the correct way to check ecu codes. Judging by what codes I had before, I'm sure you got a good laugh
The only code I got was 32: EGR Malfunction. I actually know a little bit about how to handle that one so I'll go about doing so.
Modified by gniknave at 2:01 PM 4/17/2005
Frustration is mounting. I got home and parked in my driveway (incline) and left the motor running while checking under the hood. I saw no leaks, and no boiling. I shut the car off and checked again. There was no boiling what-so-ever, not even the intermittent air bubble coming from the reserve tank like yesterday. Upper and lower hoses equally hot.
I'm not sure of the exact procedure for checking ECU codes (last time I did it was on my Q, and it's been a while). But I checked it by turning the screw all the way around (not forcing it though), and then reading the blinks.
If the procedure was right, I have codes: 23, 45, & 1 (1 seems a litle weird though).
I checked my oil level, and it's perfect and the oil is clean as it's been changed 2 times in the past week, 4 times int he past month - all with new filters for various reasons. At this point I'm stumped.
Note:
The cars overheating is triggered when I go up a big hill. Once I'm off the hill, the car will intermittently run hot, but won't overheat.
Never had this problem before having the chain, guides, and waterpump replaced.
I'm planning on tackling my Q's chain guides by myself to save the money, but the plan was to have a perfect running 240 before hand just in case I kill the Q in the process Looks like it happened the other way around. Oh and No, I didn't do the 240's chain myself - I had an independent import shop of a friend of mine do it.
EDIT: I searched and saw the correct way to check ecu codes. Judging by what codes I had before, I'm sure you got a good laugh
The only code I got was 32: EGR Malfunction. I actually know a little bit about how to handle that one so I'll go about doing so.
Modified by gniknave at 2:01 PM 4/17/2005
lol mode 2 mode 3 mode 4 mode 5 and mode 1.your right that is kinda funny.
You had more then one issue initailly I think you see that since the over heat problem deminished from your initail boiling in the bottle.
Check to be sure that fan is blowing the correct way, also check that there is no debris against the front of the radiator, if that al checks out its very likely the radiator has a restriction in it, partial since it only happens under heavy load. If you had your a/c on or your heater mode set on defrost I would tell you to check the electric fan operation as well.
You had more then one issue initailly I think you see that since the over heat problem deminished from your initail boiling in the bottle.
Check to be sure that fan is blowing the correct way, also check that there is no debris against the front of the radiator, if that al checks out its very likely the radiator has a restriction in it, partial since it only happens under heavy load. If you had your a/c on or your heater mode set on defrost I would tell you to check the electric fan operation as well.
-
93180sxredtop
- Posts: 100
- Joined: Tue Nov 02, 2004 9:34 am
- Car: 93 240sx sr20det
Re: (NISTECH)
no love on my problem nistech?????????
Re: (93180sxredtop)
I love ya man, dont be hurtin...93180sxredtop wrote:no love on my problem nistech?????????
The compression can be up in that neighborhood even with the HG leak. It sounds to me like you got a bad HG too,specially if its chokin out white clouds.
-
gniknave
- Posts: 4761
- Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2004 10:25 pm
- Car: 2000 Audi A6 2.8 Quattro
2008 Honda Civic EX (Sedan) - Location: Newport, Kentucky
Re: (NISTECH)
When I was disassembling everything yesterday I also removed the fan (when replacing the clutch) and saw the "F" on the center portion of the fan was facing the radiator. I assumed this meant "front" and put it back the same way.
Question:
As I mentioned, I took the radiator off yesterday and ran 2.5 bottles of distilled water through it to clean it out. I noticed the water freely drained from the drain plug, upper and lower hose areas. If there was blockage or restriction in the radiator, would I have noticed it when running the water through it?
- I have to give you MAJOR MAJOR props. You are highly skilled at explaining the most difficult things (as seen in other threads) to those who aren't that mechanically inclined, and getting them to understand easily. I can't thank you enough!
Question:
As I mentioned, I took the radiator off yesterday and ran 2.5 bottles of distilled water through it to clean it out. I noticed the water freely drained from the drain plug, upper and lower hose areas. If there was blockage or restriction in the radiator, would I have noticed it when running the water through it?
- I have to give you MAJOR MAJOR props. You are highly skilled at explaining the most difficult things (as seen in other threads) to those who aren't that mechanically inclined, and getting them to understand easily. I can't thank you enough!
Well thanx for the comp. I cant spell worth a tihs though..lol
You may only have a slight blockage in the radiator,The problem with this radiator theroy is the fact both your upper and lower hoses are equal in temp, usualy with plug radiators you have a temp difference.
I believe there is a time standard for fluid run off when pouring through, I just dont know it off the top of my head.
The a/c or defroster wasent on during your uphil drive right?
These are really the only things that can cause such a problem. Did you use a factory T-stat in it? If not you could go that route. I have seen many aftermarket T-stat's cause a variety of cooling system issues.
You may only have a slight blockage in the radiator,The problem with this radiator theroy is the fact both your upper and lower hoses are equal in temp, usualy with plug radiators you have a temp difference.
I believe there is a time standard for fluid run off when pouring through, I just dont know it off the top of my head.
The a/c or defroster wasent on during your uphil drive right?
These are really the only things that can cause such a problem. Did you use a factory T-stat in it? If not you could go that route. I have seen many aftermarket T-stat's cause a variety of cooling system issues.
-
gniknave
- Posts: 4761
- Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2004 10:25 pm
- Car: 2000 Audi A6 2.8 Quattro
2008 Honda Civic EX (Sedan) - Location: Newport, Kentucky
Re: (NISTECH)
The hills of Kirker Pass which turns into Ygnacio Valley. It starts in Pittsburg and runs through Walnut Creek.NISTECH wrote:Damn I just realize di was talkin to you in the meets forum and your in WC. What hill are you driving up that gets it hot? I am south of sacramento, but I know some of the area up there. not in the imediate area of walnut creek though.
-
gniknave
- Posts: 4761
- Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2004 10:25 pm
- Car: 2000 Audi A6 2.8 Quattro
2008 Honda Civic EX (Sedan) - Location: Newport, Kentucky
Re: (NISTECH)
I just took another drive around town. No overheating or running warm as I never went up a steep hill. I did notice that the idle would slowly creep up at a stoplight but I'd hit the accelerator to bring it down once it hit 1200rpm. It seemed as if the idle was going to keep going higher and higher.
When I got home, no boiling. However I did notice the reserve bottle was lower than it had been earlier today, but yet I saw no leaks in the system. I also felt the upper and lower hoses again.
I could only touch the upper hose for a second and then it was too hot. I grabbed the lower hose, and while it was hot, I could easily hold on to it. I went back to the upper hose; too hot to hold. I also touched the radiator cap. Is it supposed to be hot too? I'm not sure, but it wasn't even warm.
Your flow problem theory is starting to make a little more sense out of my problems. I did use an OE aftermarket thermostat (I believe - I have to check tomorrow to verify). I did notice that the radiator said Nissan on it and looked pretty original. Actually, knowing the previous owner (cheap a$$ - cared nothing about the car), if the radiator had ever been replaced 1. it wouldn't have been done at a dealer, 2. it wouldn't be a Nissan radiator.
I figure after 15 years and 120k it's about time to replace that anyway whether or not it solves my problem. Do you know much about CSF radiators? I have a wholesale account and ordered a radiator from them for my buddy (dal2kvvisp nico member). It was a BEAUTIFUL radiator, black and SOLID! I believe it was a performance radiator though.
O/T: Wow I've had this car a month and a half and I've done timing chain kit, waterpump, thermostat, kn intake (big difference at high rpms btw), front struts, brakes & rotors (front and rear), tires, wheels, antenna mast, spark plugs and wires (both ngk of course), fan clutch, and tomorrow I'll be receiving my intake hose, new coolant reserve, and installing rear shocks...and ordering a radiator and new upper & lower hoses. For me - someone who's always had cars and did little to no maintenance (besides on he Q), that's a LOT!
Modified by gniknave at 11:28 AM 4/18/2005
When I got home, no boiling. However I did notice the reserve bottle was lower than it had been earlier today, but yet I saw no leaks in the system. I also felt the upper and lower hoses again.
I could only touch the upper hose for a second and then it was too hot. I grabbed the lower hose, and while it was hot, I could easily hold on to it. I went back to the upper hose; too hot to hold. I also touched the radiator cap. Is it supposed to be hot too? I'm not sure, but it wasn't even warm.
Your flow problem theory is starting to make a little more sense out of my problems. I did use an OE aftermarket thermostat (I believe - I have to check tomorrow to verify). I did notice that the radiator said Nissan on it and looked pretty original. Actually, knowing the previous owner (cheap a$$ - cared nothing about the car), if the radiator had ever been replaced 1. it wouldn't have been done at a dealer, 2. it wouldn't be a Nissan radiator.
I figure after 15 years and 120k it's about time to replace that anyway whether or not it solves my problem. Do you know much about CSF radiators? I have a wholesale account and ordered a radiator from them for my buddy (dal2kvvisp nico member). It was a BEAUTIFUL radiator, black and SOLID! I believe it was a performance radiator though.
O/T: Wow I've had this car a month and a half and I've done timing chain kit, waterpump, thermostat, kn intake (big difference at high rpms btw), front struts, brakes & rotors (front and rear), tires, wheels, antenna mast, spark plugs and wires (both ngk of course), fan clutch, and tomorrow I'll be receiving my intake hose, new coolant reserve, and installing rear shocks...and ordering a radiator and new upper & lower hoses. For me - someone who's always had cars and did little to no maintenance (besides on he Q), that's a LOT!
Modified by gniknave at 11:28 AM 4/18/2005
I have used aftermarket radiators in customer vehicle many times due to customers lack of funds to buy the factory stuff. Have never had an issue with the aftermarket radiators.
The resivor level dropping is a sign that there was still air in the system. The 240 along with the L31 altima are very hard to get blead completely. Just the way the coolant passages are on them. Before replacing anything else again take a run up that hill and see if it stil gets hot.
If you dont have A/C it wont matter if its in the defrost position or not. When a car is put in defrost position it cycles the A/C compressor to help dehumidify the air in the passenger compartment. Since you dont have one it wont matter.
The fact your having to do all these repairs just proves the last owner did not keep up on the maintinance of the car.
The resivor level dropping is a sign that there was still air in the system. The 240 along with the L31 altima are very hard to get blead completely. Just the way the coolant passages are on them. Before replacing anything else again take a run up that hill and see if it stil gets hot.
If you dont have A/C it wont matter if its in the defrost position or not. When a car is put in defrost position it cycles the A/C compressor to help dehumidify the air in the passenger compartment. Since you dont have one it wont matter.
The fact your having to do all these repairs just proves the last owner did not keep up on the maintinance of the car.
-
gniknave
- Posts: 4761
- Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2004 10:25 pm
- Car: 2000 Audi A6 2.8 Quattro
2008 Honda Civic EX (Sedan) - Location: Newport, Kentucky
Re: (NISTECH)
I drove it on the freeway this morning for the first time since the repairs. I drove it down to Palo Alto to the shop where the guides were done. It heated up after about 20 minutes of driving, and then I was forced to run the heater the rest of the way, and it didn't heat up after that. I got here and it wasn't boiling. The upper hose was much hotter than the lower. You think bleeding may still be the issue?
-
gniknave
- Posts: 4761
- Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2004 10:25 pm
- Car: 2000 Audi A6 2.8 Quattro
2008 Honda Civic EX (Sedan) - Location: Newport, Kentucky
Re: (NISTECH)
I used a Nippon Thermostat. It looked slightly different than the Nissan thermostat I took out, but this would cause it to heat up under a load? I've ordered my radiator and should be installing it this afternoon. I'll post results of my drive home tonight.
-
gniknave
- Posts: 4761
- Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2004 10:25 pm
- Car: 2000 Audi A6 2.8 Quattro
2008 Honda Civic EX (Sedan) - Location: Newport, Kentucky
Re: (NISTECH)
Ok, well I didn't drive it home yet. But I did replace the radiator and bleed the living crap out of it yesterday. I must have bled it on a simulated incline for almost an hour with goosing after it was warm. When I finished, the reserve bottle was a LITTLE bit below max.
One thing I noticed was that after a while, when I goosed, I'd see blue smoke come from the exhaust that smelled a LITTLE bit like oil. I know the look and the smell very well. However I have smelled similar smells since having my muffler replaced last week, which seem to be related to whatever is in the inside of the muffler when it's new.
I came back this morning and my new reserve bottle was in, so I went to replace it. To my surprise, the reserve bottle was pretty much empty! I'm a little scared now. Overheating when going up hill (still? we'll find out today), coolant gone from reserve, NO SIGN OF LEAK TO GROUND, slightly rough idle, and high idle problems. I hope this isn't a head gasket issue.
Where could that coolant be going? I can't see how the coolant is disappearing from the reserve when the hose is connected at the upper portion of it. It seems that the hose would have to have suction to take the coolant out. The coolant may have been leaking very slowly out of the reserve, but for it not to be on the floor kinda puzzles me.
The temperature gauge is here unless going uphill:
I try to do some preventive maintenance and it becomes a mess! Just my luck.
I'm also thinking it's going to overheat again because after the bleeding was done, I felt the hoses and there was still a temperature difference. I'm going to order a factory Nissan thermostat and pray REAL hard!!!
One thing I noticed was that after a while, when I goosed, I'd see blue smoke come from the exhaust that smelled a LITTLE bit like oil. I know the look and the smell very well. However I have smelled similar smells since having my muffler replaced last week, which seem to be related to whatever is in the inside of the muffler when it's new.
I came back this morning and my new reserve bottle was in, so I went to replace it. To my surprise, the reserve bottle was pretty much empty! I'm a little scared now. Overheating when going up hill (still? we'll find out today), coolant gone from reserve, NO SIGN OF LEAK TO GROUND, slightly rough idle, and high idle problems. I hope this isn't a head gasket issue.
Where could that coolant be going? I can't see how the coolant is disappearing from the reserve when the hose is connected at the upper portion of it. It seems that the hose would have to have suction to take the coolant out. The coolant may have been leaking very slowly out of the reserve, but for it not to be on the floor kinda puzzles me.
The temperature gauge is here unless going uphill:
I try to do some preventive maintenance and it becomes a mess! Just my luck.
I'm also thinking it's going to overheat again because after the bleeding was done, I felt the hoses and there was still a temperature difference. I'm going to order a factory Nissan thermostat and pray REAL hard!!!
The coolant disapearing with out leaking indicates the engine took it in. The system develops a vaccum[suction] as it cools and draws in from the resivor, if it does this it indicates the system is tight as far as leaks. This would include the head gasket. I think getting a factory t-stat is very wise at this point. Make sur when you install it the bleed on it is up. This helps air bleed from the system when you burp it.
-
gniknave
- Posts: 4761
- Joined: Wed Aug 25, 2004 10:25 pm
- Car: 2000 Audi A6 2.8 Quattro
2008 Honda Civic EX (Sedan) - Location: Newport, Kentucky
Re: (NISTECH)
Ok so I drove home today. NO OVERHEATING!!!111oneeleven!!
It would give the SLIGHTEST creep up once in a while, but never moved a tickmark. I watched it the whole way home and went the exact routes that I went when it did overheat, but it didn't do it.
I'm not going to count my blessings yet though. I'll see for sure tomorrow since I'm taking that long drive again. I didn't replace the thermostat again yet, but I'm going to order the Nissan one anyway and have it ready for when time comes.
I don't know if it was the radiator or the excessive bleeding I did yesterday that solved it, but I don't care which one it was. I'm not even upset that I spend all that time replacing parts because I now know to [correctly] replace everything in the cooling system...something I would have never bothered to do without motivation.
So again, props to you for helping me diagnose this thing. I can't thank you enough!!!
It would give the SLIGHTEST creep up once in a while, but never moved a tickmark. I watched it the whole way home and went the exact routes that I went when it did overheat, but it didn't do it.
I'm not going to count my blessings yet though. I'll see for sure tomorrow since I'm taking that long drive again. I didn't replace the thermostat again yet, but I'm going to order the Nissan one anyway and have it ready for when time comes.
I don't know if it was the radiator or the excessive bleeding I did yesterday that solved it, but I don't care which one it was. I'm not even upset that I spend all that time replacing parts because I now know to [correctly] replace everything in the cooling system...something I would have never bothered to do without motivation.
So again, props to you for helping me diagnose this thing. I can't thank you enough!!!