90 240SX Instrument Cluster Removal

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froggy
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I need to pull the instrument cluster on my 240SX so I can replace the Battery Warning Bulb (it's shorting my alternator and killing my battery).

I've done a search through here and the only resource with step-by-step instructions is missing the pictures (http://www.lsauto.com/install.asp). And the only descriptive answer here (zerothread?id=30988) feels like it's missing some important details.

Can you point me to a step-by-step with available images?

Thanks!


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homeslicej2
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zerothread?id=219159

This thread has link to the Factory Service Manual. In it there is a rough diagram of what you have to remove to get the cluster out and some instructions I think. You'll have to search through the FSM though, I don't remember which file it is in.

froggy
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I appreciate the reference, but that's what I'd already downloaded. It does have an "exploded" view of the dash and cluster and warns that the battery should be disconnected, but it's kind of hard to really visualize the steps, ya know?

Sounds like no one has put together a decent procedure.

Related question, once I get the cluster out, am I going to need a special tool to swap out the charge warning bulb? Is it soldered in? Is there a part number for it so I can stop at the parts store and get a new one before getting into the project?


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positron1
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To get the cluster out take the steering column cover off by removing the bolts securing it. Next, you need to remove the bolts on the lower column cover located below the steering wheel, take the cover off. Now you need to lower the steering column and you do this by removing the two bolts underneath the shaft that secure it to the dash. You come at these bolts from below because they are pointing up. You'll need a socket extension to get to them. After you remove those bolts you can physically pull the steering column down about 1.5 to 2 inches, don't worry you won't break anything. If you look at the top/roof of the gauge cluster you will see two screws that you need to remove. After pulling the steering column down you can remove the black cluster trim by pulling on the tabs at the bottom. From this point you can move the cluster out of your way. You may need to remove the plugs for the buttons on the trim so you can get it out of the way. After that the cluster itself will be exposed so you take a couple of screws out and pull it.





You don't need to remove the steering wheel, just a pic for reference.

I don't have a pic of the back of the cluster but the bulbs all come out by just turning the end of the fuses and pulling them.

Modified by positronone at 9:58 AM 3/20/2007
Modified by positronone at 9:59 AM 3/20/2007

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homeslicej2
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Awesome picture tutorial ! This will help me a great deal when I get my cluster in. It's the only thing that doesn't come with my swap. How did you get your steering wheel off? I needed to remove mine awhile back bc something was dragging behind the wheel and driving me crazy, but I couldn't get the wheel off. I don't have a puller though. I bet you do. Another question if you don't mind positronone. I'm getting a DOHC cluster bc of the SR swap going into my 1990 SOHC. Can I remove just the tach and swap those so I have original mileage showing? I have heard of people doing this, but can't find anything when I search. Is is just better/much easier to swap the whole cluster? I will have to remove the bulbs and reuse them though? Where do you get the bulbs for the dash? Are those blue ones sitting on that table by the cluster your replacements for the gauge bulbs? Mine are really dim and I'd like to brighten the gauges up. Sorry for so many questions this is just the most complete portrayal I have seen of this procedure. I understand now why froggy still didn't know how to do it after looking at the FSM bc it does not go in that much depth.

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positron1
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I got my steering wheel off with a puller that I got from AutoZone's lend-a-tool program. It came off pretty easy with that thing. You can just swap the tachs, I pulled mine out and looked at it when I took the cluster out. I had a 180SX tach sitting around and just wanted to see how it fit. They just pop into place no problem. When I swapped out my guages I went ahead and put new bulbs in while the cluster was out. Big improvement, you'll definitely notice the difference at night. You'll need 6 194 size bulbs. I recommend the Polarg hyper whites. I got them pretty cheap on ebay. Good luck on the swap! One thing, when you remove the gauge cluster cover lid, be careful not to break the plastic tabs that hold it to the cluster unit. Get some canned air and blow all the dust out while you're there too!

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homeslicej2
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Thanks for the help man. Where else can I find the bulbs at? Would oreilly's have them?

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positron1
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Yeah, you can get the 194 size bulbs at any parts store.

froggy
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Thank you so much, positronone!! Your tutorial helped it all come together and make sense. Sadly, it was not the solution.

I spent three hours this afternoon pulling the instrument cluster out (the buttons on the bezel gave me a little grief), changing the charge warning bulb and putting it all back together and it still isn't charging. Even more frustrating? The Charge Warning Bulb is still not lighting up.

Anyone know how much it's gonna run me to have the alternator replaced?

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homeslicej2
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Do it yourself. If can spend 3 hours with the cluster than you can spend an 1 or so on the alternator. Alts are ~100-200 depending on where you get them.

froggy
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I thought about doing the alternator myself, but truthfully I'm not that confident in my mechanical abilities.

I replaced the belt on my old Dodge Avenger when it shredded and I never did get the tensioner pulley quite right. That damn thing squealed like a stuck pig all the time. Plus from what I've read, without a lift, changing out the alternator can be a bit of a chore.

So it'd take me, an inexperienced shadetree mechanic about an hour to swap out an alternator? So, a pro should be able to get it done within an hour. If I guesstimate about $150 for the part (midway between $100 & $200), I should be able to get my local mechanic to do it for about $200 (+/- a few bucks based on actual labor rate, cost of the part and tax)?

That's reasonable, I guess.... much better than the $180 they wanted to charge to replace the Charge Warning Light bulb.....

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positron1
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Good luck whatever you choose to do. A lot of us on here are shadetree mechanics who start out by doing simple things to our cars. After awhile you get familiar with the tools and you do your research and ask questions, the best thing about the forums, and you get a little more confident in what you can do. Later on, it gets to be fun to work on your car and soon you begin to look forward to it when something needs to be fixed or upgraded and it is within attainability of someone who is not a mechanic. But, for someone starting out, replacing the alternator is a pretty big deal. I did mine and I also have to say that it's easier than you would think that it is. If you could take out your cluster, which is a lot of work because you have to move a lot of stuff just to get to it, you could also get the alternator. But you're just starting to work on the car so I understand how you might feel unsure about it but good job anyway.


froggy
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I can appreciate that, positronone. I'd just hate to foul up the car too bad as it is my daily driver and all.

Any tutorials you'd recommend for swapping out an alternator? Do you have another one in you? As you've done it, realistically, what am I going to need to do it? Do I need to buy a set of ramps? Or are jack stands better? Any special tools required?

I looked at it last night and as near as I can tell the only way to get to it is from underneath. I couldn't see any place up top I could get to it.

Your confidence in me is a real boost. I didn't think the cluster was all that bad and if you say the alternator's actually easier..... well.... hell, I might as well give it a shot.

I dropped the car off at the mechanic this morning to re-do their charging diagnostic now that I've replaced the $180 bulb. If they come back with the alternator's gone bad and needs replacing, I'll tell them to make sure the battery's charged up and I'll take it home to do it myself.

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positron1
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My car didn't have a radiator shroud and the stock intake tubing so there was extra space around the area where the alternator is so I was able to take it out from the top. If you have the radiator shroud then it's going to be a tighter area to work around.

If you do attempt to do change out the alternator search and find some pics, sadly I didn't take pics that day because it was too cold, the day after X-mas but here it what I did:

First thing you need to do is take the air intake tube off the throttle body and move it out of the way. Then, I disconnected the negative battery cable and the alternator harness. There were three bolts on the alternator if I remember correctly, two for the bracket that holds it on the engine and the other was the tensioner bolt for tightening the alternator belt. I took/loosened the two bolts on the bracket and the alternator comes apart from the engine and pulls right out or you can drop it to the ground and pull it from below, if you have the radiator shroud I don't think you will be able to pull it up to thru the top. I wish I had pics but I don't. If you can get your hands on a copy of Chiltons(chapter 2-8 electrical) then you'll see the pics of the bolts you need to take off. If you are standing in the front of the car then the bolts are on the sides of the alternator and the tensioner bolt is on the left front facing towards the front bumper. You'll need a socket wrench and an extension, I can't remember what size sockets though. Good luck and let me know how it turns out. When I put it on I did have a squealing belt but I adjusted the tensioner and it stopped. You just have to play with it until the squealing stops.

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homeslicej2
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Positronone, how many 194 gauge bulbs are in the non-HUD cluster? Most people say 3, but one says 6. Also, is the # for the little bulbs #74?



I see 5 big bulbs (I assume they are #194) and 13 little ones (I assume the are # 74) and 1 clock bulb (I assume it's also # 74 even though the base color is different), can you help me out here please? I'd like to go ahead and replace them all while I have the cluster out. If you don't know (since you do have an HUD) could you point me in the right direction? I have searched but came up with different stuff and nothing too definitive. Thanx .

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positron1
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6 bulbs in the Nissan clusters. The big bulbs are #194 and the little bulbs are #74. I wish I knew what number the little bulbs were before I pulled my cluster so I could have changed them out too. Guess I'll have to do it again. Good luck, it should really look good at night if you put new bulbs all around.

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homeslicej2
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Do you think the Polargs are worth it? I mean Advance wants $3.68 for each bulb and the Polargs are $5 a pop...so I guess it's worth the price.

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positron1
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Shouldn't really matter which one you get. I just went with Polarg's because someone I know told me they were really good and won't burn out as fast as an off brand. No big deal though. They are bright though.

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homeslicej2
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Where can I find the little #74 bulbs at? I guess I'll go with the Polargs. My current dash lights are really dim so it should provide a stark contrast.

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positron1
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I haven't tried to find any at all but the parts stores should have them. If not, I'm checking ebay.

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homeslicej2
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Thanks but don't worry about it. I've found them online at a couple of sites.

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positron1
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Where and how much? I need some.

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homeslicej2
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http://autolumination.com/194_marker.html

Have both 194's and 74's in both incandescent, LED's, wide angle LED, 4-bulb LED, etc. More options for the 194's but still.

http://www.autodynamic.com/tra...s.asp

Have some of the 194's and 7440/7443 (I don't know if these are the same as just a 74 though bc I haven't actually seen the bulbs in the cluster yet)

http://www.importintelligence....&-new

Import Intelligence seems to only have only the 194 Polargs but they are a NICO sponsor and they sell them at $10 per two pack. The eBay prices I found weren't much cheaper or about the same with shipping.

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mrzabala
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Didnt bother reading the replies since I scrolled and saw a steering wheel puller. So lame... Click on the dash removal link on my sig. It shows how to take off the gauge cluster. Its the same process with a hud gauge cluster. Just remove your kick panel, and after, remove two bolts and optional 2 nuts below that hold the steering column. everything else should be straight foward. Use my pictures as reference to help you out.

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positron1
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Lame is right. Read the thread before you comment!

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mrzabala
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I did now and Im still holding on to my comment. This isnt just for one person to see. Thats why we have a search button. It will help others. As you have good info and pictures. Mine shows were the bolts and nuts are located. Just a little plus when its your first time doing it. I know I took a while before I saw pictures of something which helped me out. And steering wheel puller is still lame. Could have used that money for something else imo. I've seen 16 year old 5'2'' skinny kids pull off steering wheels with bare hands. I'm done here.

Future reference for people, that used the search button, looking to get the cluster or other part on there dash removed, just click on my dash removal link on my sig.

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positron1
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Thanks and that's good to know......

cyron
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Car: 1990 240SX SE

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THis is a much better guide.http://www.240sxforums.com/for...51323

I just did the LED mod to my dash... Lower the Steering column!!!I got them from: http://www.superbrightleds.com/specs/WLED-xHP.htm

It came out really well! They're super bright, but to directional, so I have dark spots. I had to turn down the lights.



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