9.6/1 AFR at idle WTF

[WDRacing]

I can't get the car to lean out...at all. I even have the fuel pressure at 20psi. The SAFC is set to -50 and I don't get any change in AF mix.

With the key in on, I get 3.4 volts from the MAF, can that be correct? I'm so tired of screwing with this car. I may just get rid of it and buy an old Nova with a big block and a carb.

Any idea's/thoughts on where to start troubleshooting?

[Tictakman]

not that im gonna know whats wrong.... but what is ur fuel set up that ur running?

Zak

[Structure240sx]

what are you in/out settings for the maf? do you have a good ground for it (z32 maf)? did you setup the dec. air settings?

[WDRacing]

I used the same settings you did for the in/out, 2 and 6 I believe. The 300ZX maf has 2 grounds correct, one that goes to the 240 maf harness and one that goes to any ground on the car correct? Cause thats the way I have it.

Anthony, why don't you just fly out here real quick and fix my car. I'll buy ya a beer...lol.

Oh yeah, I blew my turbo oil pressure line, so I sprayed about 2 quarts of oil all over the ****ing place. I already fixed that, but I have to clean up still.

The Dec. air settings I also stole from you.

[skatanic28]

i think i get around .5 volts before startup, something is definately messed up with your mafs. some people have used 1/6 for the hotwire settings, maybe give that a shot.

[skatanic28]

The 300ZX maf has 2 grounds correct, one that goes to the 240 maf harness and one that goes to any ground on the car correct? Cause thats the way I have it.

not sure if this would make a difference, but the rewire stuff i saw for it tied both the grounds together and tied it to the mafs harness.

[Import_Ant]

http://srownersclub.com/faq/faq_mafs.asp

the wiring for the MAF on the KA and SR harnesses are the same.

they show a wire needing to be grounded to the chassis...

[Nismo_Freak]

I can't get the car to lean out...at all. I even have the fuel pressure at 20psi. The SAFC is set to -50 and I don't get any change in AF mix.

With the key in on, I get 3.4 volts from the MAF, can that be correct? I'm so tired of screwing with this car. I may just get rid of it and buy an old Nova with a big block and a carb.

Any idea's/thoughts on where to start troubleshooting?

1. MAF voltage too high, re-evaluate the wiring

2. You can lean out the mixture by turning the idle screw to some extent

[Structure240sx]

the in/out settings that are really suppose to work are 2in 5out (2=z32 maf 5=240sx maf). i have heard there are actually two different types of z32 mafs and i have alos heard this is a rumor (n61 and n62). 1in 6 out jsut works better for me. try 2in 5out. i went through a bunch of different combonations until i decided on which was the best for my car.

the technically ture 2in 5out setting for me would make the car run pig rich exactly like yours i believe

[240SicknessX]

1. MAF voltage too high, re-evaluate the wiring

yes mafs voltage is too high with key on, from the fsm.......

-Ignition switch "ON" (engine stopped) less then 1.0 volts-Idle (engine at normal operating temps) 1.3-1.7 volts-Idle to about 4,000 RPM, 1.3-1.7volts to approx 4.0 volts

Check for lenear voltage rise in responce to increase engine speed till 4,000 RPM

remove mafs, and check hotwire for damage or dust/grime.

[WDRacing]

Thx guys, I'll be rewiring everything in the morning. AGAIN.....

[240SicknessX]

sure thing, just reinerating something you already know and for the ppl that didnt, correctly soder any electrical connections, especially ones that are sensing current, you wouldnt want any other reistance in the circuit, could\will throw off readings. and add some shrinkwrap to make the connection a lil more water resistant.

[EZcheese15]

sure thing, just reinerating something you already know and for the ppl that didnt, correctly soder any electrical connections, especially ones that are sensing current, you wouldnt want any other reistance in the circuit, could\will throw off readings. and add some shrinkwrap to make the connection a lil more water resistant.

Yeah WD, what he said. I thought about that after I talked to you today. If you don't solder all the wiring, you can loose current through bad connections which can cause some seriously nasty things. Not sure if you crimped or soldered, but definitely solder anything that has to do with fuel management.

[Jookmasta]

also check the throttle point on the safc. u probably already have the low throttle point at 0% but it should b at 0% for the safc changes to affect ur AFRs

[Structure240sx]

also check the throttle point on the safc. u probably already have the low throttle point at 0% but it should b at 0% for the safc changes to affect ur AFRs

i used to think the same thing, but this is really how the safc works

say you have low throttle at 20% and high at 40% (this is what i have i believe.

anything under 20% and it runs the low mapanything from 20.1-39.9% is a mesh of the two mapsanything above 40% is jsut the high map

[WDRacing]

I soldered everything that wasn't chassis grounded. But I'm about to go recheck all the connections.

[Jookmasta]

i think ur right structure......i was playin around with the safc on the highway today and i had no change on the inaccurate narrowband. it is possible that the throttle points could already have a preset "map" as to what percentages correspond to which map we put in. i guess then we really only have control of the maps and not when they kick in?

[skatanic28]

i guess then we really only have control of the maps and not when they kick in?

im not really sure what you mean. you can look at what correction factor the safc is operated at while you are driving, and youll see that below the low-th point you be operating off the low map. what structure said is definately right.