9,000rpm mods?

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impact240sx
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So I saw the write up on the 9000rpm head, and I was wondering if all of that is 100% necessary? I was also wondering what all I would need to go 9000? Would I need new pistons and rods? Also would I be able to change the rev limiter with greddy emanage?


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jr_ss
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To turn 9k reliably, you'd need full bottomend balancing... I for one would only want to rev to 8k myself, I don't drive an F1 car or a Honda...

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vocationalzero
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jr_ss wrote:To turn 9k reliably, you'd need full bottomend balancing... I for one would only want to rev to 8k myself, I don't drive an F1 car or a Honda...
Or a rotary... Don't forget them

Ser200sx567
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After I'm done with my current SR20DET builds I want to experiment with a new alloy called Toughmet, It has all the right properties and characteristics one would want for an alloy in high wear areas. I want to have some wicked cams custom ground and Titanium rod set made up. More than likely will sleeve the block as well along with run titanium valves, and valvespring retainers. want to rev it to the moon

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the converted
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Titanium valves eh? What's wrong with the stockers?

Ser200sx567
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Valves cup or crack over time and become weak. you can buy off the shelf stainless steel valves that are black nitrited that do a great job in most aftermarket applications. Titanium valves are extreamly light compared to stainless steel, only thing is you need to change out the valve seat inserts to a beryllium copper which is also poisonous or toughmet material a copper nickel tin alloy, which changes the machining characteristics as well as the physical characteristics of the engine due to differances in friction and heat dissapation.

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LeroyBrown
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just build it 5k and get all that torque lol

mjmmx6
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need to build up the head big time...springs, retainers, valves

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supreamS14
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Ser200sx567 wrote: Titanium valves are extreamly light compared to stainless steel, only thing is you need to change out the valve seat inserts to a beryllium copper which is also poisonous or toughmet material a copper nickel tin alloy, which changes the machining characteristics as well as the physical characteristics of the engine due to differances in friction and heat dissapation.


beryllium Is very very expensive! The machining cost of it is crazy. My grandfather was a precision grinder for Honeywell and machined beryllium for NASA. He got the cancer and passed away. My father is convinced that he got it from machining beryllium.

DrifterProdigy85
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Ive been tuning 9k rpm for over 10k miles now. Stock Valves, BC Springs/Retainers, Tomei Solid Lifters.

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supreamS14
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The bottom end should be fully balanced if your running over 7000 rpm alot. I think nissan must of done a good job on the bottom end because of how many people get away with running that high of rpm's on the stock bottom end. But I don't think it would be a good idea on a road race car where your always reving the $#!+ out of the motor. On most motors if you run over 7000 rpm on a unbalanced bottom end for too long, it will rip the bottom end apart. I never really understood why Honda's rev so high but they fall on their face in the torque department.

Ser200sx567
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Most of the hondas are above square on there stroke (large bore than stroke). Thats where they loose there torque. From what i've found is that the SR20 Is factory balanced. you could always balance it to 0.1 gram and use lighter components.

idahotuner
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seems to me valve float is the only thing you really need to worry about. but no need to go crazy. use simple parts that work together. i would do ferra stuff to build an head to rev to 9

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PyR0NiAk
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Valve float IS the biggest issue. People have destroyed heads at 7500 from valve float. Let alone 9000. If you follow that thread (You can use different cams, obviously), and then rebuild the bottom end, and have it balanced, 9000 is definitely possible. The only time you would want to rev that high is a large turbo, though. Powerband on the SR tends to drop off before you even get to 7500.

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the converted
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PyR0NiAk wrote: People have destroyed heads at 7500 from valve float.
Bouncing off the limiter at 7500, yes. Just revving up to 7500 and shifting shouldn't be an issue since that's where the stock limiter is. I personally had my crank balanced at a motorcycle specific machine shop though, so it should be good for far higher than the engine will ever see.


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