9,000 RPM N/A RB2

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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Trini.Madman
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I've seen alot of info on the high reving business turbo engines, but say someone was to do it to a n/a rb25de series 2 block, using a rb25de neo head (for solid lifters) and upgrades the cams (poncams) & valve springs. Did something like ITB's extractor manifold & N1 oil pump to keep oil pressures alive...

Think it will make for a responsive powerful n/a? The major factor being the 9000rpm rev limit? Ofcourse injector upgrade and a nice tune...


Darius
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No.

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Trini.Madman
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Why not? Im not expecting turbo power, but i like the idea of being faster than a stock rb20det :)

RRRRB
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Make it at least an 11.1 motor nicely ported head and some big cams made for NA, pretty much all RB cams are geared towards turbo applications..

These heads can breath well with good porting and cams... spend your money here\

Making NA horsepower isn't cheap

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Trini.Madman
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Car: A31 Cefiro - RB20E - Automatic - 4.1LSD
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I was talking to a friend (locally in Trinidad) about my project and this is what he suggested I do.

So he said lets get realistic. Leave the OEM limiter. so 7500rpm?
Change the Valves to +1mm Oversized
Deck the Block to get me a 11.0:1 compression
Get the Head Ported
Get 6 AEM 41000volts coils (denso spark plugs and thicker wires for the plugs to handle the voltage)
Some RB25Det Injectors
Nicely Built Extractor Manifold with a Full FreeFlow 2.25 inch Exhaust
Lightened Flywheel
6puck copper clutch with no springs
Heavy duty Pressure Plate
Lightened (1 Piece) DriveShaft
4.3 LSD
I already have AVS6 16inch wheels and I drive on Potenzas So I think those were good.

Need an opinion on these things.
Lightened Crank Pulley?
Remove Clutch fan and Install Electric Fans for Radiator?
Oil Squirters and Oil Cooler for the 11:1 compression heat?
He also suggested I get the N1 Oil Pump to get better oil pressures cause the squirters will lower the overall pressure.

AEM F/IC to tune? I like the F/IC but I just need ual to tel me if It will serve my purpose properly or if there is better.

What he didn't say anything about however was the intake.
Was wondering if the OEM intake manifold will be suitable for the job or if it should be machined a little to be smoother? or ITB's?
Throttle body size increase?
Air Flow?
Air filter?

Now ive done a lot of research on the n/a thing and its obvious that n/a is a thing of the past and everything is going boosted. However, im not looking for rb25det power, I am however looking to be able to give a stock rb20det a run for its money!

I will be using a RB20DET Manual Gearbox.

Opinions? Suggestions? im starting to finalise what I will be doing cause im almost done building suspension and brakes to what I think will be good.

Darius
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Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
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Location: Chicagoland

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Trini.Madman wrote:I was talking to a friend (locally in Trinidad) about my project and this is what he suggested I do.

So he said lets get realistic. Leave the OEM limiter. so 7500rpm?
Change the Valves to +1mm Oversized
Deck the Block to get me a 11.0:1 compression
Get the Head Ported
Get 6 AEM 41000volts coils (denso spark plugs and thicker wires for the plugs to handle the voltage)
Some RB25Det Injectors
Nicely Built Extractor Manifold with a Full FreeFlow 2.25 inch Exhaust
Lightened Flywheel
6puck copper clutch with no springs
Heavy duty Pressure Plate
Lightened (1 Piece) DriveShaft
4.3 LSD
I already have AVS6 16inch wheels and I drive on Potenzas So I think those were good.
So you will be willing to spend about $5,000 to increase the power from about 190HP to mayyybe 230HP?
Trini.Madman wrote:Need an opinion on these things.
Lightened Crank Pulley?
Remove Clutch fan and Install Electric Fans for Radiator?
Oil Squirters and Oil Cooler for the 11:1 compression heat?
He also suggested I get the N1 Oil Pump to get better oil pressures cause the squirters will lower the overall pressure.
Do not change out the crank pulley unless you want the engine to rattle itself apart. It is a harmonic balancer and is essential.
Oil squirters and cooler would be nice but a lot of work. It isn't going to do anything in terms of performance or even longevity.
I'd run an N1 pump regardless.
Trini.Madman wrote:AEM F/IC to tune? I like the F/IC but I just need ual to tel me if It will serve my purpose properly or if there is better.

What he didn't say anything about however was the intake.
Was wondering if the OEM intake manifold will be suitable for the job or if it should be machined a little to be smoother? or ITB's?
Throttle body size increase?
Air Flow?
Air filter?

Now ive done a lot of research on the n/a thing and its obvious that n/a is a thing of the past and everything is going boosted. However, im not looking for rb25det power, I am however looking to be able to give a stock rb20det a run for its money!

I will be using a RB20DET Manual Gearbox.

Opinions? Suggestions? im starting to finalise what I will be doing cause im almost done building suspension and brakes to what I think will be good.
I don't know why you are going through all of this trouble just to be faster than a stock RB20DET. Slap some nitrous on there and get a tune for it. $1,000 tuned and you're done.

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JTR32gtst
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Get an RB20Det, put on a tune and RB25DET turbo and save thousands?

Or just drop in an LS...

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Trini.Madman
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Simply put i dont like the rb20det engine. Dnt really like turbos on a whole. Yes i am willin to put out the money on a non turbo to gain just a little bit of power. I just need the advise. So dnt change crank pulley.

Suggestions on the intake manifold?

And braggin rights worth alot too me :).
Non turbo power! Wonder if i can put a few honda engines to rest too... hmmmm

Yellow4g63
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never going to happen, Those honda's are going to run rings around your yestertech motor. N/A RB's don't make crap for power unless you have a Nismo standing behind you dusting off parts of old to throw into the motor. I think my friends RB25DE n/A only made 165whp with ITB's, header and a Micro tech stand alone. Mad man abandon the waste of money and get a turbo motor, Or you could just try to do all this work and get beat by a N/A honda and still tell yourself that your cool because you have a 2.5 6 cylinder motor that makes less hp that a 1.8 or 1.6 honda motor.

RRRRB
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I believe your wasting your time.. if you dislike turbos you need a good N/A motor platform.. bragging rights don't come with a 2.5L and 200Whp..lol

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Trini.Madman
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So what platform can I use for a powerful n/a build? I mean seriously everything is turbo now and I really hate the lag on a turbo. I am finding it almost impossible to get my hands on a RB30 block to do that build which I obviously prefer because I see more n/a projects there...

If someone can help me out with some good advice or help locate a rb30 block for me then id really appreciate that.

:)

Was also looking at a VG30DE engine that doesn't seem to be rocket science to put in the place a rb engine was in...
Seems like a better n/a platform to give some Hondas a good deal of stress?

RRRRB
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Ls1

Largekid
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more displacement. If you want NA power, get a V8 or a big cube V6 depending on money and goals.

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JTR32gtst
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Trini.Madman wrote:So what platform can I use for a powerful n/a build? I mean seriously everything is turbo now and I really hate the lag on a turbo. I am finding it almost impossible to get my hands on a RB30 block to do that build which I obviously prefer because I see more n/a projects there...

If someone can help me out with some good advice or help locate a rb30 block for me then id really appreciate that.

:)

Was also looking at a VG30DE engine that doesn't seem to be rocket science to put in the place a rb engine was in...
Seems like a better n/a platform to give some Hondas a good deal of stress?

The right turbo set up will not be laggy....

Maybe in 1990, but twith the turbo technology through billet wheels and dual ball bearings...they can spool quickly. Sounds like you have gotten butthurt by an RB20. If you ever see mine when its done, it will butthurt you too...

Darius
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JTR32gtst wrote: If you ever see mine when its done, it will butthurt you too...
Quote of the day if not the year! LOL

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Trini.Madman
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LOL @ LS1 engine... that's unavailable where I live :). Seriously unavailable. Engines under the more... "Imports" term. Japanese stuff is easier for me to get my hand on... So what opinions do I get for the Import line of stuff?

If anyone can help me with a RB30 block, id be more appreciative :). Other than that, I have a rb25de engine and I can look for VG30DE engine.... probably easier to find here.

RRRRB
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why not put a GTx2871 or something simular... it will spool crazy.. and have just as much low end power as a gutless NA RB motor.. A little lag is something worth waiting for..

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Trini.Madman
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Ok so ur saying to Boost my N/A motor with a relatively small turbo (gt28) and I will get almost seamless response? Compared to the Stock turbo, how will that turbo react?

Now lets say I look at a garrett turbo and simply think its way too expensive... What other brand would you recommend, what will be an "equivalent" turbo in that brand?

What are other cheaper good brands?
Turbonetics?

Any other turbo brand that makes a pretty decent unit for a nicer price than $1500+ USD?

I live in Trinidad so the conversion is 6.4tt-1usd so 1500usd is like 9600 for me... which is a heck of a lot of money.

so hopefully that would explain why I might have been avoiding a turbo :yesnod

Yellow4g63
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VH45DE nissan V8 since the LS1 isn't handy. should be able to hit 275whp and 300ish lbs of TQ with basic mods.

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Trini.Madman
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Also, I saw some people saying that they "highflowed" their OEM turbo unit and changed the fins to metal? if I were to use that with a reasonably small fmic, would it be possible for me to get a 4-6psi to spool s*** fast on a N/A engine? And will that make the unit more reliable? Any disadvantages to doing this?

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Trini.Madman
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VH45DE :D someone sees my pain! :D so I will definitely start looking for one of those! 4.5Liter V8 :D :biggrin: loads of smiles there!

crashsvg
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1500us is a lot of cash yet your willing to spend 5k us to gain 50hp? a type r civic would walk around you still even if it was stock just from power to weight ratio..
turbo (even small t28 single), manifold, intercooler, wastegate ,pipes , bov,injector and a management will cost u around 3.5k us if u shop good and will blow out over 400hp easily

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breadbox
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400hp RB20's are scary, will never have traction on street tires, But need supporting mods to make sure it never gets over heated or oil starved. I am shooting for a stock RB20 with a tune that will just let it be what it wants to be(higher red line and no speed governor, better fuel maps, etc.). But stock size turbo, well built.

Building an N/A Rb20 is more of a novelty. If I were to go for novelty I'd build t5 volvo setup for fun.


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