89 Hatch into the mid - low 12's

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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LT_Z
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How much power would it take to get a 89 hatch into mid to low 12's ? I mean would i have to get some better pistons to run the kind of boost needed or is possible on stock pistons/custom turbo set uP ? And if you have hit these times what setup/psi are you running ? I also will be running some type of LSD and more than likely on nice street tires. I realize this i kindof a vauge question but im really interested in some 12's in my hatch. thats my goal thanx for the info !

Peace


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WDRacing
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Are you willing to do some weight reduction??

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LT_Z
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well, not really. This car will be driven quite often but i race two other nissans all the time and i hate for someone to catch me on the street with anything slower than high 13's. would high 12's require weight reduction ? do you know of anyone going near 12's ? i mean im just trying to fiugre out what kind of power i need.

MainEvent212
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aries is running 9's on juice from what i know and he has a full interior...from what i know

SingleCamSam
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300whp will get you into the high 12's in an S13 hatch if you can hook up right. It's really hard to compare track times to racing on the street since there are so many variables. A high 12 car is a street BEAST.

240marcuSX
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12's on street tires? is that possible even with 300rwhp?? A spool would be better wouldnt it? i mean only for drag racing obviously.

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LT_Z
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He's running 9's in the 1/4 ? geezus thats flyin. i dunno maybe i just put my NX kit on and shoot 100 shot or so. Till i can get turbo motor together. thanx for the info.

Structure240sx
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first aries is running a chevy 350 with nitrous to get into the 9's.

have u ever driven a car that runs 12's? i havent but i have riden in high 13 second cars and thats pretty damn fast. the question is very vague u got that right. look around the site more before u go sayin u want a 12 second car, what do i need.

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Its easy to get into the 12's, I only asked about weight reduction cause it makes things easier thats all. Simple things like removing all the soundproofing and under carpet insulation. Getting some light weight seats. Never race with any more the 1/4 tank of gas.

You'll need a nice cam and do some port matching. Drop a turbo kit on and add enough fuel for 15 psi. That should get you close.

WD

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LT_Z
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Structure240sx wrote:first aries is running a chevy 350 with nitrous to get into the 9's.

have u ever driven a car that runs 12's? i havent but i have riden in high 13 second cars and thats pretty damn fast. the question is very vague u got that right. look around the site more before u go sayin u want a 12 second car, what do i need.


Yes i own a 12 seocnd z31 and im almost complete with my 10 second s30.

so 15psi will get me in the ballpark , thanx for the info.

illspace
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i heard the best aries ran with that LT1, was a mid 13... I say this becuase he has lost before on the streets of houston with that thing by slow cars...

TomsMR2
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^ i think you heard wrong.

sub 13 second cars are SCARY to drive on the street. you'll need a huge turbo, and once it kicks in, its not forgiving... ie, spinning out on a corner once boost kicks.

on the streets theres veeery little you cant beat with a mid 14 second car. in my area the *fast* cars are the ones running 15.0's... then again, everyones a ricer here :P

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sil80drifter
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Sub 13s cars are not scary, I drove my friends 3rd gen RX-7 which is 280whp, and in the 12.9s. It takes a little to get used to and is not your regular car, but it's not scary, u just need to realize that boost comes, and when it does it comes quick. Can't just mash the pedal like in N/A, and expect not to spin wheels in a corner. Just be gentle on the gas pedal, and listen to the spool, so you know it's not about to kick in fully when you least expect it.It's a lot of much fun, but also cumbersome to get used to, after driving his car, I realized that 300whp is as high as I'd want to go on my car, but for now I'll stick with 200whp and get used to that when I turbo it. Btw, the FDs can do high 12s with only 280-290whp (with good driving) because they weigh less than S13s (about 2650lbs), with AC and every option in them.Have fun with your car when ur done with it :)

sil80

DaveEEE
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WDRacing wrote:Never race with any more the 1/4 tank of gas.

WD


Why in the hell would you want that? Maybe if your N/A... Otherwise you need all the traction back there you can get. I'm not saying come with a full ****in tank, but 1/4? Make a few passes on a low 12 second car and you'll be outta gas!

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Dude, grab a glove and get in the game...Gas is heavy. Why do you think people use smaller fuel cells. If you can't hook up then you either need practice launching or you need better suspension and tires. Traction is important off the line, weight is important for the entire 1320. Against popular belief, dropping the clutch at or about where the turbine spools up isn't the best way to launch a car. Try side stepping the clutch(slipping).

WD

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sil80drifter
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Sorry for misinforming, the FD weighs 2800lbs with all options I just asked a few owners. This of course means that our cars could be in high 12's with 280rwhp, if we launched/shifted well enough.

sil80

cow
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TomsMR2 wrote:on the streets theres veeery little you cant beat with a mid 14 second car. in my area the *fast* cars are the ones running 15.0's... then again, everyones a ricer here :P


Um.. you're kidding right? I can think of like 10 cars off the top of my head, both domestic and import, that run well below mid 14's STOCK (and who leaves their car stock? :P). Supra, Z32, rx-7, 5.0, the new SRT-4 (supposedly), 350z, 93+ f-bodies, any vette made in the past 20 years or so, um.. yeah. etc. Even a little Type R can run a low 14 with a good driver.

Where do you get this mid 14's nonsense? :|

cow
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sil80drifter wrote:Sorry for misinforming, the FD weighs 2800lbs with all options I just asked a few owners. This of course means that our cars could be in high 12's with 280rwhp, if we launched/shifted well enough.

sil80


This is pretty interesting.. that is very close in weight to an S13, correct? My friend is getting an FD soon and I hope to get an S13. Should be fun :P

SingleCamSam
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Quote »Even a little Type R can run a low 14 with a good driver.[/quote]

Show me proof of this and i'll send you a beer. :)

DaveEEE
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WDRacing wrote:Dude, grab a glove and get in the game...Gas is heavy. Why do you think people use smaller fuel cells. If you can't hook up then you either need practice launching or you need better suspension and tires. Traction is important off the line, weight is important for the entire 1320. Against popular belief, dropping the clutch at or about where the turbine spools up isn't the best way to launch a car. Try side stepping the clutch(slipping).

WD


Well just make sure you got enough to make your passes, it'd be pretty damn embarassing to run out down the 1/4. ;)

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TRUE...............

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sil80drifter
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cow, your friend better know what he's getting into. The FD is probably the hottest car (to me at least) both visually and performance wise, but they are a LOT of maintainance, a lot of hassle, and you better read and read and read and read before you go and buy one, because some of the stories told by owners (both experienced and newbs) about their rotaries are scary in more ways than one (financially, and mechanically, to say the least). But in the end, if I had some time on my hands, and wasn't a Nissan freak, I would definetly go with an FD. They are better looking than most cars out there, have incredible handling characteristics, and the wankel can push a lot of horses, if done right and tuned properly. I went to the 2003 Rotorfest today, and a bunch of everything showed (including the FC with an SR in it, the guy is pretty cool and the originator of the drift events here on the east coast). I got a ride in a 380WHP FD, and I almost **** myself. It was a single turbo conversion, running a T04H (or S don't remember) at 16psi. Good god. When it kicked in I thought my guts went out the window. And it was then I realized (again) that I'll never need anything beyond 300whp. The car was insanely fast.

For all of you who are saying "oh I'm looking for 450 whp or so," I'll tell you agian: Go get a ride from a lightweight car with that horsepower, and then (if they let you)try to drive it. Anything beyond 300whp in our weight class is TOO much. You don't need it, and you won't use it unless you are planning for a drag setup. This does not apply to WD, because he has issues of his own and boost is what keeps his clock ticking. Then again 400whp on a (heavy) Skyline is not the same as 400whp on a lighter 240. Maybe he'll calm down one of these days too :) I have a feeling he'll read this, and will attempt to submerge my brain in denaturate, til he thinks I'm ok again.

sil80

gyfer
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sil80drifter wrote:...(FD) are a LOT of maintainance, a lot of hassle, and you better read and read and read and read before you go and buy one.....

.... Anything beyond 300whp in our weight class is TOO much. You don't need it, and you won't use it unless you are planning for a drag setup.....

sil80


I don't think Rotary engine are "a LOT" more maintainance, comparing to 4 cylinder engine, KA for example.

-13B RX-7 twin-rotor engine has only 3 moving parts, 5 if you include 2 engine oil squiters.-16 Valve 4Cylinder engine contains more than 160 moving parts.

I don't see why rotary need more maintainance.

The downsize of 13B-REW (in FD, and most RX7 engine) is the heat, and apex seals. Rotary engine DO NOT like overheat and detonation. One detonation, you will say bye-bye to your engine.

I agree, if you do not know how Rotary work, don't ever think of owning one.

There's never "too much HP" if you can maintain well balance in chasis, suspension and power curve.

gyfer
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And again, the advantages of 2-rotor Rotary:

1. 6 fires(explosion) in each crankshaft rotation, againts 2 fires in 4cylinder ( KA )2. almost no limitation of engine reving ( 10,000+ rpm on ported engine, only limitation is injectors size, and rotor balance )3. 79cubic inches (1.3 litre), small enough to fit any car, big enough to make 600hp.

Anyone one has 13B on their S13/S14 ?It will be sweet.....

TrueSlide
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http://www.sdsefi.com/features/240sx.htm

They claim a 13.01 on street tires, no internal mods and about 10PSI.

cow
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SingleCamSam wrote:Show me proof of this and i'll send you a beer. :)


Uhh.. i don't really care that much, I've seen it before, so it's cool. :\

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Rotaries are way to prone to explosions...A few friends of mine on island have been through atleast 30 2-rotors and I don't know how many transmission's. One mistake when tuning and you blow a seal. Our engines will deal with a little detonation, rotaries can't have any.

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sil80drifter wrote:For all of you who are saying "oh I'm looking for 450 whp or so," I'll tell you agian: Go get a ride from a lightweight car with that horsepower, and then (if they let you)try to drive it. Anything beyond 300whp in our weight class is TOO much. You don't need it, and you won't use it unless you are planning for a drag setup. This does not apply to WD, because he has issues of his own and boost is what keeps his clock ticking. Then again 400whp on a (heavy) Skyline is not the same as 400whp on a lighter 240. Maybe he'll calm down one of these days too :) I have a feeling he'll read this, and will attempt to submerge my brain in denaturate, til he thinks I'm ok again.

sil80


It was 498 hp....Boost is like Heroin and I am so addicted....I've driven in a few really fast cars in my time. 300hp at the wheels just isn't enough. But you have a point with most other guys. They don't really know what they're getting into. I see so many people on here say how crazy fast they're car is at 10 psi....kinda makes me giggle. I'll be giving rides at the NICO meets for those who want to wet themselves.

WD

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LT_Z
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WD what kind of boost you @ ? in what year sx ?

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It was 28 psi and it was a 1990 Skyline GTS-t, on stock internals I might add.

WD


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