89-94 Maxima power window repair...hope this helps

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canucklehead
Posts: 64
Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2008 1:14 pm
Car: 1994 Nissan Maxima GXE

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I just bought a '94 Maxima. The right front power window wasn't working. I could hear the motor so I was pretty sure it was the window regulator. To take it apart, the door panel has several body panel plugs and there are some hidden screws. This should lift off easily, so don't force the panel or you'll break it. If it's not coming off, you probably haven't removed a couple of the covers on the door that expose other fasteners. there are several around the door handle and power window control.

Sure enuf, the regulator was buggered. The cables were intact, but they had become crossed over on the spool. Also, the upper cable had pulled out, but was not broken. It looked too hard to try to repair the cables, plus they had some kinks.

I looked on ebay and you can get complete assemblies with motor for $40-50. You can also get regulators as cheap as $11. We repaired this same problem in my father in law's GM truck in the fall/winter. We bought a jobber part and it stopped working last week!! A light bulb went off in my head and I decided I wanted to buy a quality part. I was worried that if someone is selling the PW motor &/or regulator that cheap, they must be of suspect quality. I noticed the warranty was 60 days!! I don't want to re-do this job again for a LONG TIME! So i did some more checking and ended up buying from The Car Part Warehouse. They have a 3 year warranty and claim their parts meet ISO9001 standards, etc..

The wierd thing is they show 2 types of regulators; one is "japanese style" ($23), the other is regular style, and it's $43. Despite their company policy referring to their staff as experts, nobody seemed to have any idea what the difference was. So i ordered both and they will arrive on monday. I will let all know which one works. I'm hoping I don't have to find out about their 3 year warranty.

I found it easier to gently lower the glass, disconnect the 2 bolts holding the glass to the regulator, then pull the glass out and get it out of the way. That way you don't have to worry about it crashing down on your hands, or smashing. it comes out very easily once disconnected.

hope this helps someone.


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lightsout
Posts: 816
Joined: Mon Jul 23, 2007 1:49 pm
Car: 00 Nismo Maxima SE

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canucklehead wrote:The right front power window wasn't working.
NOTORIOUS PROBLEM..... right?

canucklehead
Posts: 64
Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2008 1:14 pm
Car: 1994 Nissan Maxima GXE

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is it more of a problem for the right side than the left? funny, cuz D-side gets the most use.

so are you familiar with the 2 different styles of regulators these guys are sending me? one is japanese style, so presumably, the other one may be a different style that accomplishes the same job. I wonder which one I should install, if they both fit?

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BOBCAT
Posts: 292
Joined: Fri Feb 25, 2005 3:38 am
Car: 2000 Maxima, 94 SER

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On my 00' the driver side takes longer to roll up than all the others. It pisses me off but i am not going to do anything about it until it goes out. 150,000 miles and fingers still crossed.

canucklehead
Posts: 64
Joined: Tue Sep 09, 2008 1:14 pm
Car: 1994 Nissan Maxima GXE

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well both parts arrived today. The "japanese style" regulator is a slightly different design, but not by much. I used my old motor, it all lined up great, but it would only push the window 3/4 of the way up, maybe a bit more. I could push it up with my hand the rest of the way, and also start it down aswell (wouldn't do it on it's own). The switch had to be activated when I helped it.

ANOTHER difference; the OTHER regulator comes with a motor already attached, for $25 more. SO i tried the complete regulator/motor assembly. It seemed to have more power/speed. It also jammed up a little near the end. I tried checking my track and all the areas to make sure there was no obstruction and everything seemed free and clear. there is virtually NO ADJUSTMENT. the bolt holes all line up and then it's in. HOWEVER...the channel piece closest to the mirror (or front of the car) might have been a little cocked. I had un-done this before, but realize now you don't need to loosen or remove the channel that is not connected to the motor .

I think the motor/regulator intentionally slows down at the end of the travel so it doesn't rifle the glass through the door frame. So that must have been what slowed my window at the end. ALSO, my battery was a bit weak because when i started the car, it seemed to be able to complete the up/down cycle.


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