89 240SX Stalled Wont Start Help!

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
Simon Tibbett
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Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 4:42 pm

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Ok, I just got this car from a trade Christmas Eve. Since I got it, it ran a little wierd but never broke down. At lights sometimes a little gas RPM's will drop and try to stall. So you have to ease on the gas lightly and start slow. Also driving at low RPM it would kind of surge.

Yesterday going to my girlfriends house I turned in her driveway (uphill) and got on the gas a little. It shut off. I tried to start it up wouldnt start. So I rolled back down her driveway to a parking lot. She came down and we checked for spark. Spark was fine. So that made me think fuel related. You can hear the pump primer. Still no start. So then I got mad and banged the pump with a hammer, it started and stalled. Then I banged it again harder and it started, but was running really rough. Sounded like it was ticking like an exhaust leak. I had it running enough to get back to her house.

So my question is, fuel pump? I plan on today getting a pump, filter, and strainer. But also could it run wierd if the pump is bad or if the filter is clogged? I know it would run wierd but would it sound like it did, it sounded really rough. No smoke or anything though. Any help greatly appreciated thanks!


Simon Tibbett
Posts: 114
Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 4:42 pm

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Check engine light is also on. Pulled spark plugs and all were dirty but not horrible. The 4th cylinder was very black though. Smelt like gas and was wet.

Simon Tibbett
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Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 4:42 pm

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No ideas at all? Fuel pump installed. Same problem. What about a sensor? Runs rough but on all 4 cylinders. If you rev it high and keep it up it smooths out, then idles fine. Throttle still wierd if you hit it hard on idle. Maybe the fuel/air ratio not right? Any ideas? Way to check this?

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Chezedik
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Car: 1991 Nissan 240sx

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A compression test may help. Being a double slammer, I know that (doesn't matter on # of cams) number three likes to go boom, but usually under boost. If only #4 is a prob, try disconnecting the injector, and removing the plug. Will it run on 3 cyls? None of the things you are thinking of is immediately adjustable. So, my heart and gut tell me MAF. Try disconnecting it, and see if it will idle. Also, TPS can be removed to do the same thing. With an older ECU sys like that, you can remove connections to ALL sensors, and if it is a gremlin (other than ECU itself, and only in some cases) it will SEEM to fix itself. Then you would test them out one by one. If not MAF, I am worried that it is internal. The KAE is known for failing tensioners damaging the motor internally. But a compression test will tell you that, assuming the timing is half-*** correct.

Simon Tibbett
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Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 4:42 pm

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Ok at idle I unplugged the MAF sensor, I think. It is the big one on the intake right? I took it out and it ran horrible. So I put it back in. There is a smaller one on the filter box unplugged it and it ran ok. It just seems like two are not mixing. Flooring it you hear loud intake sound but seems like not enough gas. Keep at high RPM's it evens out and runs normal then idles normal. I am hoping it is not internal. I can let it idle forever and not have any problems. And the number 4 plug was just worse looking then the others, but when unplugged while running it bogs down to three cylinders.

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Chezedik
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Car: 1991 Nissan 240sx

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It is going to run horrible with the MAF disconnected, like it will only go to 2.5K RPM, but below that does it run better? The other one sounds like it may be either the ICV or the ACT, what does it look like?Sounds like #4 may just have bad seals then, or a weak oil control ring. Give me more info on the one you unplugged that made it better.

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nelson8708
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Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx Fastback
1994 Acura Integra LS
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I also have a 89 240sx. One thing i found when i checked over the engine was that the rubber boot on the end of the intake tube when it connects to the intake manifold was ripped on the bottom. This let more air in. The maf sensor was sending the wrong singal to the computer making the motor run lean(air/fuel ratio). Check it.

Also check all the vaccum lines. The easiest way to do this in my opinion is get some starter fluid or brake cleaner and spray it around where you think there might me a leak and listen for a change in the idle.

That little sensor that you disconnected from the air box was the AIT(air intake temperature) sensor. I dont think it could make your car run as rough as you describe.

Keep us posted on new information and i am sure someone will be able to help you out.

Hope this helpsJust my 2 cents

Simon Tibbett
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Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 4:42 pm

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Ok, update.

The car is at my girlfriends house so I have to wait till the next day to try anything I read lol. Today what I did was pulled the spark plugs again. They were pretty dark, and smelt like gas really bad. Kind of a wet oil/gas mix it seemed like.

I cleaned the plugs, and the car sputtered but didnt start up all the way. I took them out again, cleaned them better, and put them back in. The distributer was also lose and I turned it a tad another direction and tightened it.

I tried to start, nothing. This time the starter clicked really fast. Like turning but the motor is not turning over now.

Any ideas???? Starter gone? Starter relay? I cleaned all my sensors with electronic cleaner. Anyone have a labeled picture of what all the sensors are and where? Thanks for the info!

Simon Tibbett
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Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 4:42 pm

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Oh yeah the small one I unplugged that made it seem a tad better was on the right side of the intake box, two screws hold it on, its a small little tiny sensor with two wires I believe coming out

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nelson8708
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Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx Fastback
1994 Acura Integra LS
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Yep...that was the intake air temp. sensor. Might want to check your distributor cap, and rotor for corrosion. Check the timing too since you turned it a little bit too. The starter clicking sounds like the battery might be dead too.

Simon Tibbett
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Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 4:42 pm

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Ok thanks. I am going to take parts off a parts car a guy has he said I can take whatever I need. So I am taking most sensors, some other things.

Simon Tibbett
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Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 4:42 pm

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Ok, took the battery out of the parts car. Works now no more ticking. Also it started but ran like crap. I have figured out now my plugs are getting fouled for some reason. If I clean them it runs perfect for a minute, then starts to act wierd. I drove it home (15 miles or so) did not ever stall on me or feel like it would. But it felt very sluggish. Kind of pulled a little some and then didnt. If I pull the plugs after only a few short minutes of driving they are black and smell like gas or burnt gas. Also it smokes flooring it from a stop and at idle. It is white but I dont know if that could be because it is cold. But it is not that cold. Temp gauge is not hot so it is not over heating.

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SOHCSE
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Car: 1990 240sx SE
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Is your PAIR valve intact and clean? The stalling and the running rich could be caused by stuck reeds.

Simon Tibbett
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Sorry what is a PAIR valve, and what are reeds? Sorry for the dumb question. Where are they or it and how to check? Thanks all for the info it is helping!

Simon Tibbett
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Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 4:42 pm

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Nevermind searched it is the AIV thing right? What if I just unplug it from the intake. What would happen? Would that be enough to tell if that was the issue? What are reeds though?

Simon Tibbett
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Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 4:42 pm

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help

Simon Tibbett
Posts: 114
Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 4:42 pm

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Ok, some updates. My air filter was very dirty, lot of sand or something. Runs like crap without it. Also my battery wont hold a charge. Is my alternator all of a sudden dead? I think my sensors work because I took the intake tube off the throttle body when running and it ran horrible. Now there is also a wierd ticking zizzzzzzzz sound from the intake manifold, some box thing that is on there with lines coming out. Any idea what it is I will take a pic. Is it suppose to buzz? Changing it any good? Any ideas what this could be I need it to run again! Thanks

Simon Tibbett
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Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 4:42 pm

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Got the car running good but not perfect. I can floor it at idle and it wont try and stall just kind of takes a minute to rev freely kind of stumbles slow but never dies and at 2k and above it is fine. Drives fine as well. BUT new issue. It wont start unless jumped off. When running if I turn my lights on at idle right after I started it up the car bogs down and up for a few seconds. I had the battery on a charger all night, and it will only start if jumped. All accessories work though. Any idea?

Simon Tibbett
Posts: 114
Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 4:42 pm

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help


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