Unbolt the coil from the valve cover (test one at a time). Unscrew the spark plug, then stick it in the coil. Hold the plug against the engine block/head and have a friend crank the motor (hold the coil though, not the plug, otherwise you'll get this tingly feeling in you as 10,000 V pass through your fingers). If the coil is bad it wont spark. If it's good, it'll spark.lollyloopp wrote:Thank you for the reply!
Is there anyway to test a coil?
Thanks.
As long as your hand is on the coil you should be fine, it's insulated. If it wasn't, then your car wouldn't run.r34 gtr wrote:As a rule I pretty much try and avoid touching anything ignition coil related when turning the car over. It hurts like nothing else. I think I was impotent for like a week.
Haha, I was linked in here from another thread.Bwana wrote:WHAT!???!!! Torry posting in the CA forum????
If the coil is cracked, then yes, there is that possibility. However, it's rare. It's more likely that the coil just doesn't work.biosehnsucht wrote:I've seen cracked coil cases... so, maybe if the coil is to blame, maybe holding it isn't a good idea, no ?
wouldnt a laytex(sp?) glove solve all fears as now your hand is insulated too?EZcheese15 wrote:
If the coil is cracked, then yes, there is that possibility. However, it's rare. It's more likely that the coil just doesn't work.
There are other ways around holding the coil, as I mentioned above. All I'm saying is that is a quick and easy way to do it, and 99.9% of the time you'll not get shocked. If, on a rare circumstance, the coil is cracked and you do get shocked, big deal. It doesn't hurt any worse than getting shocked from a wall outlet. You'll live.
That would be GREAT!! Thanks!meminto wrote:Yep, I would test the ignitor next.. Especially with the weak then strong spark...
If you are handy with a multimeter, you can check the continuity between specified pins, I can post up the process if you like...
It could be as simple as needing new spark plugs. You could have a crack in the ceramic of one of the plugs which would cause the plug to sometimes ground against the head while firing, instead of jumping the plug gap.lollyloopp wrote:
That would be GREAT!! Thanks!
We did test more than one of the wire plugs and all got a good spark so I am ruling that part out.It is possible that when number 3 did not spark it was not well grounded. That is why we tested it the last couple times and did get a good spark. Is it possible for an ignition coil to have an intermittent problem. Or if it works it sparks good if it doesn't work it doesn't spark?
I know this may be a vague (possibly even stupid) question but is there any other easy fixes I should check before having it looked at by a mechanic?
Thanks again!!
That's AWESOME! I wasn't sure if I was the only Pulsar lover out there or not! Talk (or type) to your heart's content. I LOVE my Pepe (that's his nickname) more than any other possesion I own, for the last decade!I'm so glad to here someone who's had 20 years experience with working on these to reply. It is SO HARD to find someone who sounds confident in working on them, including the dealership! One person there even told me to junk him!!!! That was my que to leave, lol!Liquid_Neon wrote:yay for another pulsar owner, and someone who has owned it for years too!
Sounds like a coil to me, the 15-20minutes thing is mostly from heat related issues. Good to be smart and test it anyway, but after 20 years under a pulsar hood the poor things tend to get heat stroke.So I'm more or less saying the same thing, but I love my car so I find any excuse to talk to other pulsar owners
I don't think he's referring to the amount of years he's had working with pulsars, but more of the fact that the coils have probably been under your hood for 20 years.lollyloopp wrote: I'm so glad to here someone who's had 20 years experience with working on these to reply.
The codes are only going to help if your check engine light is on. If it's not on, then most likely you have no codes (unless the bulb is just burnt out, which is rare). Or rather, code 55, which I believe is the Nissan OBDI code for clear.lollyloopp wrote:
That's AWESOME! I wasn't sure if I was the only Pulsar lover out there or not! Talk (or type) to your heart's content. I LOVE my Pepe (that's his nickname) more than any other possesion I own, for the last decade!I'm so glad to here someone who's had 20 years experience with working on these to reply. It is SO HARD to find someone who sounds confident in working on them, including the dealership! One person there even told me to junk him!!!! That was my que to leave, lol!
I've been poking for more info on the internet and came across how to read the engine codes. I found some instructions on this site on how to access it and read it. Would that indicate to me what the problem is more specifically or not?
HTML code does not work on the forums. You must use either [url] or [img] tags, and can not embed flash files.lollyloopp wrote:<embed src="http://lads.myspace.com/photoshow/slideshow.swf" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" quality="high" scale="noscale" wmode="transparent" flashvars="userID=269237791&bgColor=10079487&bgColor2=10079487&transitionSpeed=4&transitionStyle=a&showCaptions=1&albumID=833701" width="445" height="230" name="slider" align="middle"/>
Thanks for the html note!EZcheese15 wrote:
HTML code does not work on the forums. You must use either [url] or [img] tags, and can not embed flash files.