87 Z31 Starts But Stalls Immediately

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GilgaNess
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2022 4:47 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan 300ZX Turbo (Restoration Project)
2012 Ford Focus SE (Making into a Sleeper)
2014 Ford Escape SE (Grocery Getter)
2003 Honda Accord LX (Most Reliable Car Ever!)
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Ok the back story, so this has been an evolving problem for me. My Z31 Turbo was running (although running rich and blowing blue smoke likely due to turbo) but it ran. I changed the valve cover gaskets because of oil leak. In doing so I removed the intake plenum, distributor, and throttle body. I replaced the intake plenum with a new gasket, replaced the TB with a new gasket and replaced the distributor with a new CAS, rotor and cap. I also replaced spark plugs & wires as well as ignition coil.
I also needed to replace the fuel pump. I dropped the tank and discovered that the evap port on the tank was corroded and had a hole. I ended up installing a new fuel tank along with the new pump. I also replaced the fuel filter as well as the FPR.
After this I tried starting the car and it wouldn't turn over. I discovered that I didn't know anything about ignition timing. I created a thread here and ended up resolving the starting issue.
When I first started the car up the idle was very high [3k rpm) and there was a very loud whistle. I adjusted the throttle cable because the bolt had moved and was putting too much tension on the throttle. I started the car again and the idle was initially ok but the loud whistle remained (this did not exist before all of the work) then the car slowly started bogging down and stalling. After several attempts the car now turns over but stalls immediately!
Here is what I've done regarding this issue so far. First I suspected a large vacuum leak, I attached a smoke machine to the brake booster and found a crack in my intercooler piping. I replaced that section of piping but this made no difference. I reattached the smoke and found no other leaks and I checked that all vacuum lines are connected. Next I suspected the idle air control valve might be bad. I replaced it, but again no difference. I tested the TPS and that seems to be working properly. The throttle body appears to be clean. I'm just not sure what to do next...
I have not checked the MAF. I have a new one but I don't really want to replace it until after I replace the turbo, unless that could cause it to stall immediately? I am also going to remove the air filter and check the intake piping. Is there anything that I am missing as far as anyone can tell? Sorry for the long post, but I felt it was important to share all I've done up to this point.


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FlawleZ
Posts: 112
Joined: Sun Dec 08, 2013 9:37 am
Car: 1992 Nissan 300ZX TT
1987 Nissan 300ZX Turbo
2017 Nissan Titan SV 4x4

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MAF will certainly cause that to happen. A quick check to see just unplug it and see if it runs. The car should default to a limp mode with the MAF disconnected. Also have you ran the codes at the ECU?

GilgaNess
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2022 4:47 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan 300ZX Turbo (Restoration Project)
2012 Ford Focus SE (Making into a Sleeper)
2014 Ford Escape SE (Grocery Getter)
2003 Honda Accord LX (Most Reliable Car Ever!)
Contact:

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FlawleZ wrote:
Fri May 27, 2022 6:09 am
MAF will certainly cause that to happen. A quick check to see just unplug it and see if it runs. The car should default to a limp mode with the MAF disconnected. Also have you ran the codes at the ECU?
I am actually getting ready to drop in a new (well, refurbished) ECU. The one I have has a broken head on the switch so I can't put it into diagnostic mode. I will check for codes first thing. I've spent some time thinking overnight and I'm suspect of the CAS I installed too. I'm gonna check that MAF though like you suggested especially given the reputation they have on these cars. The CAS I Installed was from a distributor I bought from Rockauto that was supposedly for a z31 turbo, but the wiring harness that came on the new distributor did not reach the connector on the car. I ended up using the internals from it to replace the ones in the original distributor. I couldn't start the car for awhile after that. I ended up reinstalling the old disc that sits inside the distributor and then the car started right up. It ran for a few minutes the first time then would stall and each time I start it that time got shorter and shorter. Now it starts but stalls right away. I'm wondering if that CAS might just not be compatible... even though it fit perfectly.
Either way CAS or MAF I hope it's either. Both should be simple fixes. Thank you for the reply! I wasn't for sure if the MAF would cause such a quick stall.

GilgaNess
Posts: 16
Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2022 4:47 pm
Car: 1987 Nissan 300ZX Turbo (Restoration Project)
2012 Ford Focus SE (Making into a Sleeper)
2014 Ford Escape SE (Grocery Getter)
2003 Honda Accord LX (Most Reliable Car Ever!)
Contact:

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So I swapped out the new CAS for the old one and voila! The car started right up! It was idling just a bit on the high side and was still making that loud whistle, but progress!

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FlawleZ
Posts: 112
Joined: Sun Dec 08, 2013 9:37 am
Car: 1992 Nissan 300ZX TT
1987 Nissan 300ZX Turbo
2017 Nissan Titan SV 4x4

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GilgaNess wrote:
Fri May 27, 2022 3:46 pm
So I swapped out the new CAS for the old one and voila! The car started right up! It was idling just a bit on the high side and was still making that loud whistle, but progress!
Glad to hear you got that fixed! If you're still puzzled on the loud whistle sound ca always upload to YouTube and share here.


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