Post by
Desert Rat »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/desert-rat-u54558.html
Tue Oct 27, 2009 4:08 am
Stock steering, or does it have an aftermarket kit on it?
Could still be an OK truck, but if you plan to 4 wheel it with a suspension lift, you'll want to address the steering before it leaves you stranded.
Grab the passenger front wheel and wiggle it like you're trying to work the steering. Watch the steering centerlink. If it freely moves up and down and the tire moves much, it's worn. They'll still drive all day on the road this way, but put them in 4wd on the trails, and the tires will toe in significantly under power. Aftermarket kits address the poor centerlink design.
The reason this is more pronounced on a lifted truck is because the tierod angle is no longer parallell with the center link. Instead it's parallell with the lower control arm (it has to be for correct geometry), but turning it this way, especially with the front axle engaged pushes upward on the centerlink, and with it's balljoint design where it mounts to the pitman and idler arms, it twists upward and can come into contact with the frame. When it does that, your steering will overpower the tierod ends and can bend them or even snap them.
There are aftermarket kits that replace this...Most notably the Calmini kit. It's over $500, but if you plan on using the 4wd much, it's money well spent. if you go that route, specify with them the truck is an '87, because earlier WD21 steering shafts are splined differently than the later ones and they'll need to supply the right pitman arm.
On the transmission, if it's not making any bearing noise, that's good. You can remedy the design flaw by jaking the left side of the truck up and overfilling the trans with an extra quart of GL4 lubricant (the GL4 thing is critical. GL5 will eat at the synchros, as will oils that say they are a replacement for all GL levels). Another way to overfill is to remove the shifter and pour in from the top.
The Tcase and rear end should be more or less bulletproof.
Do check the front suspension bushings - specifically those on the tension rod that goes back to the frame from the lower control arm. Those tend to wear out, and if they've never been replaced, they're probably dry rotted.