I've recently purchased a 87 300zx turbo that had sat for 5 years. The fuel pump was intermittent, so I replaced it with a walbro 255. The pump is now always on, which is better than it never running and I get fuel out the filter hose, but I can crank and crank and no start. It will run on starting fluid, has good fuses and relays, I have fuel through return, but dry spark plugs. Done the FSM test, the ohm readings come out various and inconclusive, I dont believe my injectors are firing because it doesnt start on it's own fuel delivery system. Cranks good just never start, need help!

I'm on 3 forums trying to get all the help I can, but it looks like I'm 4 years too late for speedy responses lol.

if it runs on starting fluid then that eliminates a lot of things like ignition system valve timing and the eccs box . I would suspect it has a bad crank angle sensor as that controls injector pulse along with the eccs . see if you have injector pulse with a noid light . i have also heard of people using a led bulb from Christmas lights in place of a noid light but i have never done this my self . A good manual Hayes explains how the system works . GOOD LUCK

Thanks much, I was leaning towards the same. Conveniently both is the x's in the junkyard near me don't have the distributors in them, so I'm pulling one out of the 89 Maxima and taking the crank angle sensor

Replaced the cas, and still no start. I'm at the end of my rope with figuring out what the hell's wrong with her

I took a look at the FSM for your car on pages EF EC 76 and 77 there is a good troubleshooting diagram. I would suggest printing this out and following the steps in order to pinpoint the issue. the first 2 steps determine power and ground circuits for the ecu and injector wiring. also it tells you how to check the fusible link and safety relay. also i would check for codes at the ECU and resolve those first if you have any .

I got the Fsm on tap, and I have used the troubleshooting process, but it leaves alot of questions too. Like i know i dont have battery voltage at all injectors at the ecu harness, yet it doesnt tell me what to check in that case exactly, just offers more testing. So I'm having a issue pinpointing where the current stops or has a break, and the ecu says it all good, I did get it to pop up codes 21 and 22, 21 is for ignition module switch I replace the Cass so that might fix that, and my fuel pump is normally unplugged because it runs on constant so that's all good. I have not been able to make it recreate those codes. But I am having my father come down today to help me look at it, he believes that the injectors are gummed up but I feel like we need to address the problem that I'm not getting power to them that I am aware of. So I'm going to redo the test as per the FSM States today, and clean my grounds and swap out my EFI relay. Do you have any other suggestions I am wholeheartedly open all I want for Christmas is my baby to run

Also, none of the instruments work when shes on starting fluid, could that be an issue or is it cause it's not running?

i think your Dad has a point . if the car sat for 5 years the injectors could be gummed up

Would that be preventing any fuel to enter the combustion chamber though? Shouldn't some at least get in there, enough to wet the plugs and get spark assuming all 6 arent clogged, which in my opinion seems highly unlikely

Recent update, test light confirms injector pulse, but now have no uel being pumped to the rail. I figured I needed more gas (albeit idk where the gas that was in it went, no visible or sniff able leaks) and added 5 gallons, but no fuel was pumped to the fuel rail. Going to start chasing those hoses and testing power at pump and harness to see why the pump isnt moving fluid

also your pump psi should be about 65 psi . glad you have injector pulse now

I'll have to see if I can get a gauge to test it, and yeah at least that's covered haha. Whether its gummed up or not could still be a issue, turns out the line on the pump had busted, most likely to me over tightening it. We replaced it and it pumps (still guessing on psi) past the filter, but still no start. Could it not be getting enough voltage, considering the pump runs constantly when plugged in? And we went to move it and found that the passenger side wheel is actually rubbing against the strut tower, and raising the vehicle and pulling with a pry bar failed to move it away. Not to sure as to what's causing that though

Short of swapping relays and wiring in a second one for the fuel pump, I'm about to pull the rail to check my injectors

So I'm fairly certain the injectors are clogged or stuck shut, we added a second relay for the fuel pump and now it has higher pressure, but it pops once or twice than keeps cranking. Looking for OEM injectors is not proving easy, what's the reliability of having them cleaned?

i have had injectors cleaned and tested with good results from a place called Dr Injector

Awesome, I'll look into it and give you and update as the process rolls along

So I've got the injectors pulled, went to go do a cleaning ourselves on them and injectors 1,2 and 6 all werent activating. So it looks like I'm going to have to get new ones or find someone selling some and I highly doubt they'll just sell me 3 haha

She runs!!! Ingot the injectors off, all fouled and 3 inactive. I got them working and spraying, and after a shot of starter fluid she runs. Bad idle, but I ripped off the egr pipe on accident and dont have the manifold to brake booster hose on currently so it's probably that. But none of my instruments work (analog), not tach speedo oil any of them. Any leads to that issue?

i would start checking grounds . got to be something common to all

Alright, good idea since I had just messed with the harness. I read it could be a ignition relay as well, but my oil pressure gauge actually works. Also the car wont start on it's own it does need a dose of starting fluid first, but ita almost roadworthy!

As per the most recent update, the idle runs good now and I'm going to look at emission block off plates to add soon, I had a leak in the water suction hose to thermostat coupler, and upon further inspection see a bunch of sediment in the pipe. So flying to flush the hoses and radiator as well as grind off the surface rust, bleed the brakes find some tires and try it on the road. Gauges and blinkers are still prominent before normal operation, but everything else is looking quite good. Thank you for all your help

Would running out of fuel have the computer not send a signal to turn on the fuel pump? I ran out of gas and charged my battery the other day and did some cleaning, had removed a ground but placed it back, and now the fuel pump worn come on. I can power it directly, but it's not getting a on signal from the car. Is it just cause it knows it doesnt have enough fuel?