Post by
Davezilla »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/davezilla-u195464.html
Tue Nov 27, 2012 7:32 am
Sounds like your idle circuit is way too lean, and since you found a blockage in your idle circuit, that confirms it. Most idle quality issues are due to people tuning the carbs way too lean on the idle mix by following manufacturer's recommendations where they tell you to adjust the idle mix screw in until the engine starts to stumble then back off just until the stumble goes away, this is good to satisfy the EPA, but not so good for your engine... especially when the temperature outside drops, making the mixture even leaner.
The best way to adjust is with the help of a wideband and set your mix to 14.7:1 or somewhere close to that number. Without a wideband, set your idle with the help of a vacuum gauge and set the mix to the highest vacuum you can achieve. No vacuum gauge? No problem... Set your idle by turning the screw in until the engine starts to stumble or lose rpm, then turn the screw out counting the number of turns it takes to make it lose rpm or stumble on the rich side, next you turn the screw back in exactly half the number of turns between the stumble pooints and you're set. The engine will idle much smoother and you can set the idle rpm pretty much as low as you want without it stalling or roughing out... I've been able to get idle speeds as low as 500 rpm smoothly using this method, of course, you don't want to set it that low for every day but it should be able to do it... You should idle at around 650 to 800 rpm smoothly once properly tuned. The condition of your plugs, wires, cap and rotor also play a part in idle quality as well as timing advance, but your idle mix is very critical to idle smoothness and it's resistance to stalling out.