800 miles -> boom

[RustspecS13]

So after replacing my head gasket and using arp head studs I finally get my car running after about 2 months.

Tuesday morning Im heading to dayton (hour and a half drive) headed to an alignment training class, and 15 minuets from home, TINK TINK TINK. And then a metal to metal sound. I push in the clutch and the engine dies.

I pulled over and sure enough, my timing belt idler is gone.

So yea I bent lots of valves. And I know that bolt was tight as of saturday.

So Im looking for a set of after market valves or a bunch of stockers. New or used any thing really.

Ug I have the worst luck with this engine.

~Alex

[USMCgetsome]

my bolt snapped on that tensioner. My idler was fine but same issue. 1st motor cooked!

[Shocker]

You might want to get a whole new long block man. Most likely your head is ruined/very badly damaged, has valve bits stuck in it, holes punched in it.. ect ect. Then there is your pistons that might have the same done to them.

Sucks to hear this, best of luck when you open her up to inspect the damage.

[Cjmartz2k]

I can get you a head from a junkyard here if you need. I know where there is a GTSt sitting right now. Email me if you wantz

[RustspecS13]

Ug I don't know I'll pull it all apart this weekend.

The KA will be going back in for now....driving that truck (94 chev 2500) is expensive and like torture.

I have most of the parts to boost the KA so I'll probably do that just because now 120whp is incredibly slow.

But the RB will get rebuilt or replaced or something. I'm definitely not abandoning it.

~Alex

[boosted98gst]

Damn sorry to hear alex, did you swap all your timing stuff to new oem items when swapped? Goodluck with everything.

[Joe]

i edited your thread title because it was f***ing retarded

[240z4u]

i edited your thread title because it was f***ing retarded

Thank you, I could barely stand to even click the link! lol

[RustspecS13]

When I bought the motor set it had a greddy timing belt and new oem tensioner and idler.

The timing belt is in ok shape and its 2600 miles old at this point, I don't know if I want to replace it or not. I'll get a new tensioner and idler.

Would a oem timing belt, or the pitworks belt stand up to 7500-8K and be reliable?

rofl at the title i didn't think it would be that bad.

Well Im going to go start tearing into it. I cant wait to see how expensive this is.

~Alex

[Shocker]

You say the idler is gone? Does that mean its stud is gone to? or is the stud perfectly fine and the idler is missing?

[USMCgetsome]

i was expecting to see a lol cat in an rb25det head! i thought it was funny

[RustspecS13]

The bolt backed off and it just fell off, and some how it landed on the side of the highway I pulled over, and even better it had the bolt and idler intact. There's a little of the block chipped off, maybe 1/100 of an inch.

The thing that makes me mad is I know it was tight as of a few days before. I think I'm going to use blue loctite on it this time.

~Alex

[Shocker]

The bolt backed off and it just fell off, and some how it landed on the side of the highway I pulled over, and even better it had the bolt and idler intact. There's a little of the block chipped off, maybe 1/100 of an inch.

The thing that makes me mad is I know it was tight as of a few days before. I think I'm going to use blue loctite on it this time.

~Alex

I take it your not running any timing belt covers? Even the lower one?

Did you torque it to proper specs? If so whats your dampener look like? Is it still tight? For it to back off torqued properly there had to be some major vibrations, unless the bearings seized in the idler around the bolt, causing it to come loose as the belt spun. I find this VERY strange and very unheard of.

[RustspecS13]

No I'm not running any covers, because both times I put the engine in it sounded like a super charger because the belt was so tight. Because I was following OEM tightening procedures. That's why I was adjusting the tension a few days before the idler failed.

I torqued the idler the same way I did last time, same tightness (as in Fing Tight, I don't have a torque wrench that's accurate that low) as last time and same wrench. And its still perfectly ok, the bearings are fine. All the mantiance was done to it before I put it in my car. The parts are about a year old, but it had a greddy timing belt and OEM tensioner and idler. They have less then 3K miles on them.

I think this time I'm going to use locktite and drill a hole in it and put safety wire through it.

[Shocker]

Dude, just leave your covers on man, at least the lower one. If it had been on and the bolt came loose the idler still wouldn't have fallen off, the bolt would have been pinned at the lower timing cover. Your just asking for trouble having the whole front of the engine exposed to road debris. I could see if this was a track only car, but not for something that sees seldom road use.

[Fibre guy]

Open timing belt=bad dayAnything on the road can ruin your day... Plastic bags, a chip of wood, a forgotten tool, road kill, tire tread... You get the idea. There is a vacuum pulling into the engine bay because it has low pressure as opposed to the ground which has a higher pressure. This creates a small ventri effect which exits at the rear of the bay. (at highway speeds) This can suck small things up like dirt and debris. Very bad.

[RustspecS13]

Ug I thought about the bolt being held in by the cover after the first time shocker asked me about it. Of course now I feel like a retard.

I never found greddy specific instructions for tightening the belt but I guess I'll just get another one or a pitwerks belt.

I do know lots of modded hondas don't run covers and never had any problems but I don't have the best of luck. So next time the RB goes back together I'll make sure its all there....

~Alex