75k miles recommended maintenance

[Infinity_818]

Hello every one,
I wanted to ask if some one can share their experiences with the 75k miles service, I currently have vibration at 80mph then goes away above or below and also have shaking steering wheel when braking at high speed, I take that as warped rotors unless some one can specify other wise, so beside the brakes I hear a knock that's very loud and annoying when I go over a pot hole even at 25mph. I'm wondering is my shocks and struts has gone bad at 75k currently I have 73xxx. If so can any one recommend a solid suspension kit that will give me comfort feel along with sportiness "drop down and stiffness" if it's not noticeable if rather change with OEM setup. Also is it okay to change the transmission fluid and the differential at this mileage assuming the first owner haven't changed them at all. Do I also need spark plugs? I would appreciate if some one can shed some light and advise on what should be changed at this kind of mileage considering the car I'm talking about is an 06 m35. Thanks in advance and be safe everyone.

[Vvsm45]

For suspension KYB shocks and eibach pro kit or Coil-overs. I think spark plugs some say you can get 100k before changing.

[Infinity_818]

Any advise on the diff and trans fluids, is it ok to change them at my current mileage as some time I feel my transmission slips at 3k rpm 80mph the car stays at that 3k rpm then I feel a jerk when it shifts to higher or lower gear depending if I'm slowing down or speeding up. Please chime in M35 experts.
Thanks

[Larz]

When I bought my M35, the mileage was in the 60s. I bought it from CarMax as it was the only M with bourbon leather I could find. I took it to my local Infniti dealer for an oil / filter change so I would know for sure I was starting with new instead of hoping that CarMax changed it as they claimed. My infiniti service guy found service records in the system, but no record of transmission, cooling system, or diff service.
During that first year, one by one, I had all the fluids changed. Some will tell you that if the transmission is past 50k miles and you can't be sure it was ever flushed, just do a drain and refill. However, I saw no point in adding clean fluid to dirty parts, a dirty pan, and a dirty magnet. The place where I get my tires and brakes does flushes so I had them flush it, clean the pan and the magnet, and re-fill it. They also drained and refilled the diff (RWD). I had NO issues with shifting, smoothness, or timing before the service and have had no issues after.
I had the coolant system flushed and re-filled with a new radiator cap, and I had the brake fluid replaced at the last brake job. I replaced the power steering fluid myself the old school way: I modified one of Fetucini's turkey basters with tubing at the end, siphoned the PS fluid out the cold resevoir, then refilled it to the cold level with new Nissan PS fluid. I repeated that every few days and I eventually added about 3 quarts of new fluid. Now the fluid is a clear, deep cherry colour and is super slick. The old fluid was not nearly as slick, had tiny particles like fine dust in it, and was a deep brownish red.

[Infinity_818]

I purchased my car in march 2013 with 62k miles now and I have 74k with less than a year ow owner ship, I've changed oil and filter twice, driving belts changed and rotors been resurfaced with new pads installed. Now that I'm hitting the 75k I wana do all the fluids and brakes however I'm having a dilemma if I should change the transmission and def oil or not and if I figure whats causes the big cluck over pot holes and decide to change the shocks and struts, should I go with after market or stick with oem.

[Larz]

I reckon you cannot be sure the last owner did the transmisison / diff service so if I were you I would most certainly do it. The risk is that you must find a place you can trust who has the actual machine that is required to flush it and they MUST use the Infiniti fluid or the Castrol version (Castrol makes the fluid for Infiniti brand for our years). Your issue with shifting could also be caused by electornics - meaning that if you reset yor ECU (which I have no idea how), the issue might go away. However, that fluid should not remain in the transmission or diff - it loses viscosity over time and probably is not lubricating or controling temps as well as it should do.

I have my oil / filter changed at the dealer (bring my own Mobil-1 and they use their filter and new washer) for about $20. I do that coz they check brakes, suspension, and tons of other stuff for free and it lets me know how much time I have before replacing / servicing those items.

I'm at 86,000 miles now and my suspension passes each time they check it - no issues driving it either, but peeps in here have needed to change theirs between 75-100k miles so yours may be due for replacement. Depends on the area you live, road conditions you drive I reckon. I'm in South Florida so everything is basically flat and roadways aren't old enough for the gi-normous pot holes found in places like NY for example. We can't get snow, so no damage to roads from cold temps, snow, ice, salt, or the plows they use to remove it. When mine is due for a change, I will have it replaced with OEM parts at the dealer. If you want a more 'sporty' or stiffer feel, check out some posts from others who have done modified suspensions. I'm perfectly happy with mine so I won't deviate from the OEM set-up.

I haven't had the plugs replaced but only because they aren't causing any issues at the moment. I will have them replaced closer to 100k miles wether they are acting up or not.

[stm37s]

This is some good info fellas

[The Bodyguard]

Definitely want to change the the main fluids!! Coolant, rear differential, and transmission!! Suspension could be hub bearings, they sell the complete new kits for each hub at about $85!! If you're looking to lower it, I'd go with coilovers!! Reset ecu so your computer "learns" your driving habits and shifting may improve but reset "after" you have serviced your car!! Google or search on here m35 ecu reset and you will get it!! I've done it before!! if you want to do it all together, spark plugs could be ready for a change, if not, put those on your to do list before the end of the year!!

[bluedevil30]

Lots of overkill in this topic. Do the scheduled maintenance and fix what needs fixing. My 2009 M35 has 112K so far with no major issues with by the book maintenance which I'm sure is already aggressive.

[szh]

Lots of overkill in this topic. Do the scheduled maintenance and fix what needs fixing. My 2009 M35 has 112K so far with no major issues with by the book maintenance which I'm sure is already aggressive.

Scheduled maintenance is all well and good, yes.

But the manuals do not talk about replacing transmission fluid ... just "checking it" occasionally. That is definitely not good enough.

I know that what I do is overkill (powered flush replacement every 30k miles), but I'd rather spend a few hundred bucks every so often than have a transmission replaced (that will cost over $4k to $5k - with labor) on our cars.

Z

[Infinity_818]

Lots of overkill in this topic. Do the scheduled maintenance and fix what needs fixing. My 2009 M35 has 112K so far with no major issues with by the book maintenance which I'm sure is already aggressive.

Scheduled maintenance is all well and good, yes.

But the manuals do not talk about replacing transmission fluid ... just "checking it" occasionally. That is definitely not good enough.

I know that what I do is overkill (powered flush replacement every 30k miles), but I'd rather spend a few hundred bucks every so often than have a transmission replaced (that will cost over $4k to $5k - with labor) on our cars.

Z

I couldn't have said it better.

[bluedevil30]

Why wouldn't the manual require routine trans flushing if it was needed? It's just more money in the dealer's pocket on a regular basis.

[M37owner]

My 2011 M37 has no transmission service required. Ever. it's the 7-speed auto. They don't even provide a dip stick anymore to check the level. If it is leaking, you bring it in and let them fix it - then they replace the fluid. This kinda bothers me. I was always a big proponent of changing the trans fluid (on the 3-spd-autos in the Ford/GM cars I had) to get the worn out friction material out of the oil and clean the pan/magnet. Maybe this is no longer needed with "modern" technology/transmissions.

[szh]

Why wouldn't the manual require routine trans flushing if it was needed? It's just more money in the dealer's pocket on a regular basis.

In my opinion, the manual should state this need.

Yes, I probably do it more often than needed (every 30k miles), but I have been burnt by a transmission failure on my earlier Q45 - at an early 104k miles - and now prefer to play it safe. At almost 150k on my M45, things are still good ... I hope to make it to at least 225k or 250k miles before any transmission issue arises.

On my old Q, transmission replacement cost me nearly $2800 ... on these newer ones, the cost is estimated to be $4k to $5k.

Z

[szh]

My 2011 M37 has no transmission service required. Ever. it's the 7-speed auto. They don't even provide a dip stick anymore to check the level. If it is leaking, you bring it in and let them fix it - then they replace the fluid. This kinda bothers me. I was always a big proponent of changing the trans fluid (on the 3-spd-autos in the Ford/GM cars I had) to get the worn out friction material out of the oil and clean the pan/magnet. Maybe this is no longer needed with "modern" technology/transmissions.

There is a dip stick available to check transmission fluid level and quality.

The location (though a bit unusual and not obvious) is described in the service manual (although not in the owner's manual). Your service manual is available here at NICO ...

Z

[M37owner]

My 2011 M37 has no transmission service required. Ever. it's the 7-speed auto. They don't even provide a dip stick anymore to check the level. If it is leaking, you bring it in and let them fix it - then they replace the fluid. This kinda bothers me. I was always a big proponent of changing the trans fluid (on the 3-spd-autos in the Ford/GM cars I had) to get the worn out friction material out of the oil and clean the pan/magnet. Maybe this is no longer needed with "modern" technology/transmissions.

There is a dip stick available to check transmission fluid level and quality.

The location (though a bit unusual and not obvious) is described in the service manual (although not in the owner's manual). Your service manual is available here at NICO ...

Z

I don't have the factory service manual but I have a subscription to AllData-dyi for the car. this is what it says about checking the fluid level:
(essentially over fill the trans then remove the "overfill plug" on the pan with the engine running and drain out the excess)

A/T FLUID
Adjustment
Recommended fluid and fluid capacity : Refer to See: Specifications\Mechanical\General Specifications
CAUTION:
•Use only Genuine NISSAN Matic S ATF. Never mix with other ATF.
•Using ATF other than Genuine NISSAN Matic S ATF will cause deterioration in driveability and A/T durability, and may damage the A/T, which is not covered by the INFINITI new vehicle limited warranty.
•When filling ATF, be careful not to scatter heat generating parts such as exhaust.
•Always maintain the ATF temperature within between 35°C (95°F ) and 45°C (113°F ) while checking with CONSULT-III when the ATF level adjustment is performed.

1.Install the O-ring (315268E000) (A) to the charging pipe (310811EA5A) (B).
2.Start the engine.
3.Make the ATF temperature approximately 40°C (104°F ).

NOTE:
The ATF level is greatly affected by the temperature. Always check the ATF temperature on "ATF TEMP 1" of "Data Monitor" using CONSULT-III.

4.Park vehicle on level surface and set parking brake.
5.Shift the selector lever through each gear position. Leave selector lever in "P" position.
6.Lift up the vehicle.
7.Check the ATF leakage from transmission.
8.Remove overflow plug from oil pan.
9.Install the charging pipe (A) to the overflow plug hole.

CAUTION:
Tighten the charging pipe by hand.

10.Install the bucket pump hose (B) to the charging pipe.

CAUTION:
Insert the bucket pump hose all the way to the end of the charging pipe.

11.Fill approximately 0.5 liters (1/2 US qt, 1/2 Imp qt) of the ATF.
12.Check that the ATF leaks when removing the charging pipe and the bucket pump hose. If the ATF does not leak, refill the ATF.
13.When the ATF starts to drip, tighten the overflow plug to the oil pan to the specified torque. See: Valve Body\Service and Repair\Exploded View.

CAUTION:
Never reuse overflow plug.