Hey Guys,

I am a newbie 620 Owner and I am in the process of replacing my front brake equipment;hoses,shoes,springs,wheel cylinders,adjusters. What do you guys prefer for the proper adjustment of the front brakes? I took a guess and adjusted them enough to get one full turn of the drum,is that too tight or?...THX!,Martin       

On the drum-drum setups, which would be all of the Datsun pickups until 78, what I do is get all four adjusted as equally as possible to prevent pulling to one side or locking the front or rear first.   I'd back the adjustment you mentioned off a click or two and then make sure all drums, front and rear, are as even as possible.

You can also go to www.olddat.com ...the 620tech section and download the factory manual. 

Thanks Guys,you have been a great help heres a pic of my other toy....second place winner at the JCCS 2007 show.

OOPS!, One more newb question...I couldn't download the Service Manual quick enough,so do you guys bleed the brake system from each wheel or from the Master Cylinder?

All of the above!

If there's a bleeder on the m/c, bench bleed the m/c first.  You can do it in the rig, but you have to disconnect the linkage.  The piston in the m/c must be bottomed out and it won't if you do it with the pedal.  You can use a long screwdriver or rod to push it with.  This is the single biggest mistake guys make when bleeding brakes....they only do it with the pedal...I know....I did it wrong for years and always had trouble bleeding brakes!

Whether you have a single or dual resevoir m/c, bleed the longest circuit first.  If the rear line runs to the pass side, down the pass side rail, connect to the diff line and comes back to the driver's side.....that's the longest line....bleed the rear driver side first.  I think the 620 are setup like that.  You may also have a proportioning valve under the frame near the front of the pass side leaf springs....bleed that after the m/c, then move to the drums. 

With a dual res m/c, the pass side is the longest front circuit, so it's first up front.

Just make sure you always keep fluid in the resevoir!!!!  If it ever empties....start over from the beginning.

Hey There, I re-assembled the Front Brake Equip. and tried to bleed both the M/C and the Front Brakes with a One-Man Bleeder Kit, but can't get the system to pressure up. Is there that much air in the lines or like a Dumb-a**,I'm overlooking something????

Did you bleed the MC first? If you have air there nothings going to happen. Also I didn't ask, do you have any obvious signs of leakage in your Wheel cylenders or MC? You need to bleed the MC then start at the line farthest from it (Passenger rear) and work your way up to the next farthest until you finish at drivers side front.

I'm guessing the one-man-bleeder is the kind that goes between the vac pump and the bleeder valve?  If so....you're better off waiting until you can get help.  If you loosen the valves up too much, the pump sucks air through the threads and you don't get anywhere.

The pressure bleeders work a lot better...you can make one using a 1 gal bug sprayer.....do an internet search for the info. 

I've also heard of a guy using a hatch back gas strut to push the pedal down while he bled it.  Maybe with a bracket on one end to hook to the steering wheel...otherwise, I still think it's easier to get some help

mklotz70 wrote: Quote »I've also heard of a guy using a hatch back gas strut to push the pedal down while he bled it.  Maybe with a bracket on one end to hook to the steering wheel...otherwise, I still think it's easier to get some help [/quote]I've done that with 'The Club'.  You know, the anti-theft device that you don't hear much about nowdays.  Since it can be adjusted an locked in position, it's perfect for wedging between the brake or clutch pedal and the seat.

I use my kids. lol

They make good little helpers. Honey I need a wrench....ok daddy. Honey I need a soda pop...ok daddy.

Works great! :P