so i had a couple questions i was wondering if anyone could answer. Has anybody ever put an oil cooler on a 1984 720? also i replaced the rear main in it not to long ago and im not sure if I put those side seals in right. Its the 2.4L z motor. any help is awesome

zeroforum?id=278720 forum.

I have not put on an oil cooler, not that I wouldn't, its just not needed.

What is the problem?

it seems like the oil is breaking down extremely fast. I recently took the oil pan off and found some sludge so i cleaned it. after about three weeks of driving the oil is red and the engine is noisy with excessive valve clearance noise. I was thinking an oil cooler would help the oil maitain it viscosity longer

what type of oil are you using 10W 30? i use that and i use conventional and that seems to work just fine mabe try with that if your not other wise im not sure how to change an oil cooler isnt the radiator used to cool off the oil in some way? 1984 datsun shouldnt have a oil cooler unless after market.

ps

check the oil filter as well you can pick one up for like 15 bucks at autozone

Project Trucker wrote:what type of oil are you using 10W 30? i use that and i use conventional and that seems to work just fine mabe try with that if your not other wise im not sure how to change an oil cooler isnt the radiator used to cool off the oil in some way? 1984 datsun shouldnt have a oil cooler unless after market.

ps

check the oil filter as well you can pick one up for like 15 bucks at autozone

15 bux for an oil filter??? holy s***! where are you from?

that's how much mine is... k&n baby!

well i guess if your running k&n but i thought he was refering to a normally priced one? its pretty fun jus to see what the prices of stuff are other places

An oil cooler isn't needed for the ordinary driver. If you believe the oil is breaking down too quickly, do some research first. not because the oil gets discolored quickly means the oil is bad. quick discoloration happens when the oil has a high level of detergent. there are several additives blended into the oil for what its supposed to do. I use Castrol GTX because of the medium level of detergent and the wear additives it contains. I change oil every 5000 KM (3000 Miles) as recommended. When I used to drag race I used Castrol syntec or Red Line oil again because of the properties of the oil. If you do long hauling then I would recommend an oil cooler.

Your performance dollars are better spent elsewhere than on an oil cooler for your naps-z motor. It's awesome that you actually took the oil pan off and manually cleaned it, you could do the same thing to the valve cover, too.

About the oil getting browned, oil has a saturation limit when it comes to residues. This means that it can harmlessly hold some nasties in suspension without them sticking to surfaces inside the engine. If there were no browning of the oil, it would mean that: A. Your engine is exquisitely clean; or B. The contaminants are settling on the inside surfaces of the engine instead of being held by the oil. Oil is supposed to get somewhat dirty, but if it's just ridiculously bad where its costing you all kinds money for early oil changes, then you might want to worry about it.

Check out these clean engines ...zer...-oils
Modified by seang at 5:13 PM 9/22/2009

i'm fixin to do a manual clean of the oil pan and valve cover soon... and for reference i use AMSOIL with a K&N filter and have zero breakdown issues... the damn stuff is good for 12,000 miles even in my engine (25,000 miles for modern engines) and i still change it every 3,000-5,000 just for peace of mind

i use K&N as well and the whole oil being red might be caused by just normal wear and tear as well.

the truck sat for about 15 years before i got it so i expected a pretty good amount of contaminants to be in the engine. i guess i'll start using higher quality oil filters to try and rid the engine of the s*** thats in there. i was also wondering how hard it was to install the fuel injection system off of a ka24e truck. im sick of that carburetor and my truck never runs right.

If you want a pretty good filter for cheap,(= to Bosch) at Orielly's or any other CSK branch ask for the Pentius equivelent of what ever filter you need. It is reserved for commercial costomers, so it will not be out on the floor. I have seen the cut aways we have at my store and they are made to the same quality as the Bosch filters, no glue like crappy frams.

dcnissan84 wrote:the truck sat for about 15 years before i got it so i expected a pretty good amount of contaminants to be in the engine. i guess i'll start using higher quality oil filters to try and rid the engine of the s*** thats in there. i was also wondering how hard it was to install the fuel injection system off of a ka24e truck. im sick of that carburetor and my truck never runs right.

the stocks carbs are crap... but its much easier to buy a good aftermarket carb and tune it then mess with all the BS ECU wiring and other nonsense with retrofitting an FI system into it... get a good carb and call it good

PEZi720 wrote:the stocks carbs are crap... but its much easier to buy a good aftermarket carb and tune it then mess with all the BS ECU wiring and other nonsense with retrofitting an FI system into it... get a good carb and call it good

x2

what type of aftermarket carb do you suggest and what about smog regulations?

a weber carb... there are different ones for different applications

what are you going for and what are the emissions regulations where you live?

I have read a few things about defeating emissions tests. I don't have them yet here in good old Michigan, but it is still something I think about considering how quickly things progress.

Here is the first thing that caught my eye. I lifted this directly from a 'yota forum... "I really can't tell you if it would pass or not here in Az. I would say run it down to the test station and see. They could give you a better idea what you need to have hooked wrong or missing. Most likely it would pass the visual inspection if every thing is hooked up rite. You cannot run open pcv on that year of Toy and pass. If it does pass visual and not the sniffer just get you a couple of gallons of denatured achohol from Home Depot or Lowes and pour in your tank with less than 1/3 of a tank of fuel and drive staight to emmisson. It should pass the sniffer then. After the test drive straight to a gas station and fill up. Greg" *(not Seang's words)*

Here is another possible contestant...http://www.autobarn.net/ch0506..._baseIts literally called "Guaranteed to Pass", and comes in 12oz bottles.

Hope you beat those bastard tests one way or another

here in nevada the regulations are getting pretty stiff. But i dont think a carb swap will make that big of a difference.

well the best for yours would be the 32/36 weber... any bigger and smog will go out the window... you may still need to make sure everything else is in tact and performing well in order to make the 32/26 pass

From a performance standpoint, the Weber 32/36 flows 300 CFM, which is more than a wide open naps-z24 is ever gonna pull, so going any bigger seems kind of pointless.

true... that's why i said its the largest he should go

thanks for the help i will post something else when i have more questions