720 4x4 stock ride height?

[720]

anyone know what the stock ride height is for a 4x4 from the lowest part of the frame to the ground?

[breadbox]

Not that its super accurate but I measured mine.

mind you tire inflation will make it more or less close to the following.

Front behind front tire was about 13 inches

Rear in front of the rear tire was about 14.5 inches

You can check my thread and see what my tires look like.... but they are pretty close to stock.

[720]

wow thanks i forgot how low they sit stock, i just forgot to measure frame height before my solid axle swap, mine is about 28 and 29.5 so i have about 15 inches of lift with sas+tires

[breadbox]

wow. thats a bit of a difference.

[720]

just a bit haha

[cws1983]

Does anyone know if 235/75/15 will fit on a 84 nissan 4x4 with stock ride height?>

[720]

yes without any problem thats what i had on mine before i lifted it

[cws1983]

After you crank the torsion bar up what kind of tires can you put on the truck.

[Davezilla]

Cranking up the torsion bars will only give you about an inch to an inch and a half extra lift, but you could do a 3" body lift and be able to put 31" tires on without any problems, mine has the 3" body lift with 265-75x16 tires that measure in at 32" tall with plenty enough clearance, I got my bars cranked up and got a little over an inch of extra lift that way with about 3 or 4 turns to spare before maxing them out.

[720]

you could also get ball joint spacers for about 1" and crank your torsion bars, you can get em here from https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/720-pic ... p-202.html

[cws1983]

Was it hard to put the body lift on it and did you have to use a lift to do it?

[Davezilla]

The body lift is actually pretty easy to do, I didn't do this one as it was already lifted when I bought it, but I've done them before. the main thing you'll need is a few extra sets of hands since you need to pick up the cab and also the bed to get the blocks in place.

Basically what you need to lift the bed is just the blocks and some longer bolts, but for the cab you'll need the blocks, some spacers to raise up the radiator support, and a special plate to drop the steering columb... which is why it's best to just buy a kit.

To do the lift, you'll want to start the job on a friday afternoon or saturday morning, then you'll have the time it takes to get it done and be able to drive it monday morning... Start with the bed by removing the bolts that hold it to the frame, then lift one side and put the blocks in place while a buddy puts in the bolts, then repeat for the other side.
Then for the cab, you'll need to remove the steering columb plate and swap it out with the plate in the kit, this drops the steering at the firewall to fix the angle from the steering columb to the steering box. then you can remove the hardware that holds the body to the frame and do the same thing, lift up one side while a buddy starts the bolts, having a hydraulic jack and some scrap 2x4 blocks will help here... The whole job takes about 8 hours total time so plan for it and be ready to buy the beer and recruit a few friends to help out.

If you got a manual trans, you'll have some trouble with the shifter hitting the console if you got one, but the console can be trimmed so the stick don't interfeare, and the inner boot will want to pull the stick to the neutral position, but I put mine in upside down to cure that problem. The transfer case stick will also need some extra attention but it's pretty much the same thing, just install the inner boot upside down and use a vinyl outer boot for the interior.
For mine, it was lifted when I got it but the previous owner removed and discarded the console, and cut the boots which lets noise, heat and cold into the cab, so I bought new boots, then when I noticed the new boots were the problem I did some trimming on the trans tunnel plate so the boot would install upside down and reinstalled it that way, then I aquired another center console that the stick was hitting so I trimmed the hole in the console so the stick couldn't touch it in either direction and put the stock vinyl boot over the stick so it looks unmodified and everything works with no noise or heat/cold coming up from that area.

[Davezilla]

I was just looking at that site that was posted above and they got a body lift kit for this truck for a decent price, and it comes with all the stuff needed so no extra parts need to be fabbed for proper bumper fitment and for the steering columb to have the proper angle.. https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/720-inc ... p-279.html ... I didn't see if they came up with a solution for the manual trans shifter but that part wasn't that hard to make work.

[cws1983]

Yeah I seen that also thanks for the link to the site, it is probably were I will be getting all my parts now. Also which way do you turn the torsion bars to crank them up?

[Davezilla]

To crank them up you'll want to turn them clockwise, and count your turns so you can do the same amount on each side. They have a jam nut on the top side of the bolt so break the jam nut free, then soak with PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil and the bolts should turn fairly easily, lock them back down with the jam nuts before dirving it and you'll be good to go. You can also correct a leaning to the left or right condition by adjusting these bolts so leave a few turns before maxing them out just in case it's not perfectly level after driving it the first time after cranking them up. Cranking the torsion bars up shouldn't effect your camber either so you're pretty much free to set the hight anywhere you want. I have heard of some rare incidents where the bars got bent from over cranking so that's why I left mine about 4 turns away from maxed out.