A few days later I had a box at the door with a new line in it.
Ignore the black piece in the picture, it is for something else. The only hitch with their line was that they weren't able to adapt to the 14mm internal flare fitting that is at the top of the firewall. I was able to get the appropriate 14x1.5 to -an 6 adapter form Pegasus racing for $10, so that wasn't a big issue.
Installation isn't terribly difficult overall, it ended up taking me a little over an hour including bleeding the system and checking for leaks.
The tools you will need are:
A jack and jack stands
Lug wrench
24mm, 22mm, 14mm, 12mm, and 10mm sockets with appropriate ratchets
14mm, 17mm, 9/16", 5/8", 11/16" combination wrenches
a drain pan
1 quart of power steering fluid or automatic transmission fluid
The first step is to jack up the car and take the passenger wheel off (don't forget to use jack stands). Once you do that you'll look over the tie rod and see a bolt with a 24mm head on it.
You can see that mine had been leaking for a while before I noticed it. Loosen this bolt up and let it drain for a little while.
while that is draining, you can go up top and start on the connection at the firewall. You'll need a 14mm wrench for the nut and a 17mm wrench to hold the end of the line.
There is also a bracket that holds the line to the back of the block that had been removed on my car a while ago. I believe that it is held on with either a 12mm or 14mm headed bolt. It is also a real pain to reach, so plan on some agrivation with that.
Once everything is done draining and you have removed the bracket from the back of the block, you ready to take it out of the car.
The next step is to put the adapter into the power steering pump. It needs a 22mm socket. It should be put on good and snug and doesn't need anything other than the adapter itself to seal.
Then snake the line down from the top routing it as you see fit through all of the hoses behind the intake manifold. Tighten it up to the adapter with a 9/16" wrench, and again it seals by itself.
Moving back up to the top You will need an assortment of SAE wrenches in addition to a 14mm to tighten everything up. From memory they were 9/16", 5/8", and 11/16". I found it easiest to start with the hose and work towards the hardline, otherwise you'll have to hold three wrenches at the same time to keep the hose from turning while tightening it to the adapter.
Once that is done, it's time for a nut and bolt to make sure that everything is good and tight. Add some power steering fluid, and BEFORE starting the car, work the steering back and forth to get most of the air bubbles out. This is going to help save your pump from being dry and without lubrication. Once you have done that a few times and the level isn't going down any more, top it off before you start the car. Once it is running keep an eye on the fluid level, and turn the wheel back and forth to get the rest of the air out of the system. Turn the wheel to one of the stops and hold it there so you can check for leaks.
If there's no leaks, You're done!
Initial pricing from the guys over at FujiiSPL lloks to be $75 for the non stainless and $100 for the stainless that I installed. Contact them through their website for any questions www.fujiispl.com
