510 v8 swap

Post by **partyboy6971** » Tue Feb 06, 2007 6:31 pm

i want to do a v8 swap in my 1970 510. and i was wondering if anybody has any info that might help me. like mounting it, cross members, firewall cutting etc. any pics would be great. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks.

Post by **evildky** » Tue Feb 06, 2007 8:50 pm

here's a buick 215a turbo V8http://img248.imageshack.us/im...n.jpgand there was a cannonball run 510 with a mopar V8, I have a pick somewhere of a replica a guy built, thinking it was a maxwedge 440

Post by **partyboy6971** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 10:32 am

thanks for the pic. you wouldnt happen to have any pics of the motor mounts for a v8 would you?

Post by **Gensaiken** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 2:24 pm

Try the rover aluminum 215 c.i. aluminum block V-8 out of a 1961-63 Olds/Buick/Pontiac or newer Rover/TR-8/etc., lighter than the 4 cyl, distributor up front, and because it's light you wouldn't have to cut the firewall to get the weight back.

There is a little info on this thread about V8 in a 510

http://www.the510realm.com/PNp....html

http://www.grmotorsports.com/b...2b368

This isn't a very common swap. So you might have some trouble finding information..

Post by **partyboy6971** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 4:02 pm

Gensaiken wrote:Try the rover aluminum 215 c.i. aluminum block V-8 out of a 1961-63 Olds/Buick/Pontiac or newer Rover/TR-8/etc., lighter than the 4 cyl, distributor up front, and because it's light you wouldn't have to cut the firewall to get the weight back.

There is a little info on this thread about V8 in a 510

http://www.the510realm.com/PNp....html

http://www.grmotorsports.com/b...2b368

This isn't a very common swap. So you might have some trouble finding information..

Thanks for the info. i think i am probably going with the 289 or 302 because there are tons of them around here for cheap and alot of aftermarket. and also because that is the most common v8 i have seen in dimes i just cant find any tech info on the swap. and i have searched for the 215 and havent found one yet. i dont mind cutting the firewall back a little though

Post by **Gensaiken** » Wed Feb 07, 2007 6:13 pm

In doing some research I found that you either have to cut the firewall or cut in to the core support. Either one to me is a pain.

I hope you have a good enough diff to put down that kind of power.

The only other option for information would be to go to the dime quarterly and get on their mailing list. It is basicly a mail based forum. Most of the biggest names in 510's are on that and no other forums online.

You can get a lot of emails but just make a post and you should get quite a bit of info, or they will tell you where to go.

Post by **partyboy6971** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 6:52 am

yea i found some info too. i can deal with the firewall cutting. i found a few guys that said they used to race them years ago and they said the diff held up fine to a 289 for them. but they recommended that i replace all the bolts with a higher grade. so i will use the stock one for now. i also found the motor i think i am going to get. it is an 85 302 with a c6 trans. both work good and the guy is selling them to me for $200. then im buying a rebuild kit and a mild cam. that is all im doing for performance.

Post by **Gensaiken** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 7:10 am

Eh, I'd advise something stronger than the stock diff. I know some people with SR20 Turbos blowing up some limited slips.

I imagine a V8 is going to be stronger than a SR and will likely toast a diff that much faster.

It isn't too much to upgrade to something stronger. A couple hundred maybe? Saves money down the road.

Post by **partyboy6971** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 1:44 pm

Gensaiken wrote:Eh, I'd advise something stronger than the stock diff. I know some people with SR20 Turbos blowing up some limited slips.

I imagine a V8 is going to be stronger than a SR and will likely toast a diff that much faster.

It isn't too much to upgrade to something stronger. A couple hundred maybe? Saves money down the road.

i am going to upgrade a little later or when i get the extra $ gotta get it built first though. what diff would you suggest though? and how hard of a swp is it?

Post by **evildky** » Thu Feb 08, 2007 5:50 pm

the R200 diff is about bullet proof, on a related note the newest issue of GrassRoots Motorsports magazine just came out and they have a stony on a dime with a VG33DE in it putting out somewhere north of 300 hp, very clean job in a beautiful car, if you're at the grocery or bookstore deffinitely worth checking out, also has a pic of my autocrossing my recently departed MR2, I placed 38th in the challange so it's just part of the challange coverage

Post by **partyboy6971** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 10:09 am

alright thanks. what car could i get that diff out of? and what is a good price? also do i need just the diff? ill go pick one up next time i go to the store.

Post by **Gensaiken** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 5:15 pm

I have heard those are most commonly found in late 80's 300ZX Turbos. Only the turbo model I think.

There are also a lot of desirable diffs in subaru. I'll do a little search and see if I can't find more info for you.

I think $200 would be a pretty sweet deal for a R200. If you find one just take the whole diff and sort it out later. I'm not really an expet in this field. I'm still learning my self but I'll see what I can find out.

Post by **partyboy6971** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 5:19 pm

alright i will start searching for one. thanks for all the good info. also i see you're in oregon too.

Post by **evildky** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 6:14 pm

the R200 si found in manual trans 77-78 208Z, 79-83 280ZX, 84-89 300ZX turbo and n/a, 90-96 Z32's, 2003- present Z33's, all S13 and S14 240SX's, the most desorable is the 87.5-89 300ZX eay to spot with it's finned diff cover, it's got the 3:7 CLSD, they sell for $600-900 on ebay! the earlier cars are all open diffs, the later cars used viscous LSD which require the use of the VLSD cv shafts, and the Z32, S13, S14 and Z33 all use a short snout version, the R200 is also found in a lot of infiniti products and truck, but if you get any of them you can add the CLSD carrier to the housing and gearset of you'r choosing, I believe the long snout early style is the better fit fro a dime

Post by **Gensaiken** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 6:23 pm

240Z 70-73 MT (3.364) (R180)240Z 70-73 MT 5spd. (3.900) (R180) - non US240Z 71-73 Auto (3.545) (R180)260Z 74 MT (3.364) (R180)260Z 74 Auto (3.545) (R180)280Z 75-76 (3.545) (R200)280Z 77-78 MT (3.545) (R200)280Z 77-78 Auto (3.545) (R180)

280ZX 79 MT,4 Spd,2 Seater (3.364) (R180)280ZX 79 MT,5 Spd,2 Seater (3.364) (R180)280ZX 79 All With Automatic(3.545) (R180)280ZX 79 MT,4 Spd,4 Seater (3.364) (R200)280ZX 79 MT,5 Spd,4 Seater (3.7) (R200)280ZX-GL 79 (3.7) (R200)280ZX 80 MT,2 Seater (3.545) (R180)280ZX 80 Automatic 2/4Seat (3.545) (R180)280ZX 80 MT,4 Seater (3.9) (R200)280ZX-GL 80 (3.9) (R200) 280ZX 81-83 Automatic all (3.545) (R180)280ZX 81-83 Turbo - all (3.545) (R200)280ZX 81-83 MT (3.9) (R200)

- - - - 300ZX's - - - - - -- -

300ZX 84-86 MT and A/T (3.7) (R200)300ZX 84-86 Turbo MT and A/T (3.54) (R200)300ZX 87-89 MT and A/T (3.9 ) (R200)300ZX 87-89 MT and A/T (3.9 ) (R200)300ZX 87-89 Turbo MT and A/T (3.7 ) (R200)Note Turbos: #1) after 4/87 only-(3.7 Clutch Type LSD)2) 88 All White SS used a 3.7 Viscous Coupling LSD)3) LSD Unites Came With Finned Rear Covers

Additional Comments: a) Viscous Coupling LSD requires special splined half shafts - b) 84-87 R200's can be used in earlier cars, but require modifications they are not direct bolt in swapable to 240/260/280Z/280ZX's c) 84-89 R200's used a 12mm bolt in the ring gear - earlier R200 used a 10mm bolt in the ring gear, so you can not swap Gear Sets with the older R200's

Found this on the HybridZ forums. Similar info to what evildky posted.

Post by **Gensaiken** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 6:25 pm

partyboy6971 wrote:alright i will start searching for one. thanks for all the good info. also i see you're in oregon too.

Yeah, I'm in eugene. If you are ever comming out this way and need some parts let me know. I've got a little bit left but have access to a large number of other parts.

Hope you go to the Canby show this year.

More info about that show can be found at http://www.Datsunsnw.com

Post by **partyboy6971** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 7:40 pm

Gensaiken wrote:
Yeah, I'm in eugene. If you are ever comming out this way and need some parts let me know. I've got a little bit left but have access to a large number of other parts.

Hope you go to the Canby show this year.

More info about that show can be found at http://www.Datsunsnw.com

cool. i might be needing a few things a little later on. yea im going to try to be there and bring my car. it should be close to done by then.

Post by **Gensaiken** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 8:06 pm

Cool, it should be a HUGE meet this year! Got a lot of people comming up from cali and all other parts of the west coast.

do you have any plans to upgrade your brakes?

Post by **partyboy6971** » Fri Feb 09, 2007 8:24 pm

yea im going to do the brakes sooner or later. i want to get the motor and everything in though before i do much else. then i will start with the other upgrades.

Post by **partyboy6971** » Sun Feb 11, 2007 1:05 pm

i was looking around a little more and ive heard a bunch of people talking about the subaru diffs and saying they are just a bolt in swap. is this true? and if so what year and model would be right to bolt in?

Post by **Gensaiken** » Sun Feb 11, 2007 2:34 pm

I'm pretty sure it isn't a bolt on swap.

http://kmhafer.datsun510.com/Subaru.htm

theres some info.

Post by **partyboy6971** » Sun Feb 11, 2007 3:50 pm

thanks for the link. with some of the stuff they say it sounds like its a bolt in swap. but still not sure. im just going to wait until the time comes and do it then.

Post by **partyboy6971** » Tue Feb 13, 2007 6:31 pm

i was wondering if anybody has any ideas in the times i could run with the 302? when its done it should be around 325hp and hopefully a little bit taller gears.

Post by **evildky** » Wed Feb 14, 2007 8:27 am

325 chp, I'd expect low 12's, and with the v8 in a lightweight dime I don't think you're gona need taller gears, i think a 3.54 or 3.33 would be good for most uses

Post by **partyboy6971** » Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:18 pm

perfect thats about what i was hoping for. it should be more than enough for driving around and taking to the drag strip every once in a while.

Post by **BACARDI_DWB** » Mon Feb 19, 2007 12:56 pm

What heads and cam are you running in that 302 to get 325hp?? is that crank hp or WHP???

Post by **partyboy6971** » Mon Feb 19, 2007 2:15 pm

thats just the horsepower im shooting for. its probably just going to be crank horsepower. i havent decided on the heads and cam yet. but i am going to use a race cam on it. im using flat top pistons, air gap intake, full length headers with 3" purple hornies, roller cams, im going to start building it this weekend after i get the keys for the 510.

Post by **BACARDI_DWB** » Mon Feb 19, 2007 5:30 pm

nice stuff. I highly suggest AFR heads. they are a little pricy but WAY worth it. my bud has a 302 stang that we dyno'd at 265 last night. he has a lot of work done but there is still alot more in it.

oh yeah full length headers would put the collector at your rear bumper haha... j/p. good luck on the build.

Post by **hazw8st** » Mon Feb 19, 2007 5:38 pm

partyboy6971 wrote:alright i will start searching for one. thanks for all the good info.

A 13b raceport rotary is a much better swap.

Post by **evildky** » Tue Feb 20, 2007 10:50 am

hazw8st wrote:
A 13b raceport rotary is a much better swap.

boooooo!it's been done you're just making life difficult for yourself with a rotard, as for the 302 build, Hot Rod did a build a few years ago using a seasoned block, fresh total seal rings, AFR heads with 1.7 roller rockers and made over 400 chp! total cost was under 2k, $1300 of it was the cylinder heads

510 v8 swap

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