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240sx-T
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I have searched and all I could find is what would handle 400hp. I need who makes internals and what to get to handle 500hp. I will be using an STS turbo system.


9sec240
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We sell everything you need. My motor handled over 800 whp through an AT trans for about 3000 miles and many trips to the track before the cylinder walls split open.

We also sell turbo kits that will get you there too

http://www.turbo240.com

Florida240sx
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9sec240 wrote:We sell everything you need. My motor handled over 800 whp through an AT trans for about 3000 miles and many trips to the track before the cylinder walls split open.

We also sell turbo kits that will get you there too

http://www.turbo240.com
And why should he trust the BEST ka24de-t shop???

Got parts from them, great quality and even better service.

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WDRacing
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With a remote mount turbo setup, it will be EXTREMELY difficult to make big power. The lag will be unbelieveable. Remote kits are good for low boost setups with realistic goals.

Buy from AMS, you'll be thankful in the end.

WD

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PapaSmurf2k3
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9sec240 wrote:We sell everything you need. My motor handled over 800 whp through an AT trans for about 3000 miles and many trips to the track before the cylinder walls split open.

We also sell turbo kits that will get you there too

http://www.turbo240.com
So you blew that motor? Did I somehow miss that thread, or does it not exist? I must see pictures!

9sec240
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
So you blew that motor? Did I somehow miss that thread, or does it not exist? I must see pictures!
I wouldnt say "blew the motor" more like "overpowered the block"

I never really had an official thread on it but have mentioned it many times in posts. I have been busy working on a solution to the issue.

Chris@AMS
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240sx-T wrote:I have searched and all I could find is what would handle 400hp. I need who makes internals and what to get to handle 500hp. I will be using an STS turbo system.
If we can't get you what you need, then you don't need it!

Give us a call and we will be happy to help you

847 709 0530

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WDRacing
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You also ignore us now that you're "Better The Us"

You owe me two stories Ivan. I expect an exclusive on the shop car contest and everyone wants to hear about you making so much power that you split the block. Alot of guys don't understand what splitting the block entails, unless they are 5.0 guys...lol. They just think you broke somthing...

Plus dude, the pictures, I know you have pictures. Email them to me if you have to, I'll make up my own story and post them for you

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240sx-T
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I didnt know that a remotely located turbo would have so much lag.

Hey AMS guys, do you think that you could give a list of things that I need to complete, install, and run your turbo kit. That would be so helpful.

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WDRacing
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Call them, (847) 709-0530

Its that easy...

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PapaSmurf2k3
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9sec240 wrote:
I wouldnt say "blew the motor" more like "overpowered the block"

I never really had an official thread on it but have mentioned it many times in posts. I have been busy working on a solution to the issue.
I consider blowing the motor as being: a point at which something mechanical has happend for which the motor will no longer run correctly... cracking the cylinder walls... or splitting the block pretty much falls into that category. Its pretty awesome that none of the AMS parts failed though, it was the actual block. Not much you can really do about that... or is there?

9sec240
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:I consider blowing the motor as being: a point at which something mechanical has happend for which the motor will no longer run correctly... cracking the cylinder walls... or splitting the block pretty much falls into that category. Its pretty awesome that none of the AMS parts failed though, it was the actual block. Not much you can really do about that... or is there?
Blowing a motor IMO has negative connotations. To me, blowing a motor brings up visions of blown head gaskets, melted pistons, bearing issues, etc.. things related to assembly or tuning. This motor just plain couldn't take the power. Both number 3 and 4 cylinders split vertically (4 being worse than 3).

I had that block sonic tested along with 5 more blocks and found that the KA motors have some core shift. My old block was skewed over enough to have some thin walls. We found a KA block that was centered up really well and I have that one machined and sitting on a stand waiting for me to assemble it. I should have around .030" more wall thickness over the shifted block.

I am also sending the old block to a buddy of mine to see if its possible to do an MID install on it.

The Arias pistons came out of the motor perfect with just the number 4 piston having small scuffs on the side from the split block.

The Crower rods showed some signs of small end bushing deforming. Basically, the pin bushings were slightly ovaled. It wasn't much but I have a new set of pin bushings on order and will have the rods rebuilt. I almost expected some sort of wear with the piston speeds I was running.

The Clevite bearings were in near perfect condition. I was a bit amazed actually. I figured that there would be some wear or deforming due to piston speeds again but I guess the huge size of the KA journal provided enough support to handle the extreme loads. I would also attribute this to the fully grooved bearing mod we do and the oil pump modification. Both allow for better oiling of the motor (specifically the rod bearings)

The crankshaft was magnafluxed to check for any cracking and measured for straightness and any deformation and it was in perfect shape.

There were signs of slight head lifting. The gasket wasn't blown but you could see some darkened areas. The head was checked for warping and it was perfectly flat. The cams were also in awesome shape. I had the head disassembled and springs checked and got the thumbs up for reassemble. The valves were lightly lapped into the seats and it was good to go.

To aid in keeping the head from lifting, I had thread inserts installed in my new block. This increases the amount of thread engagement there is in the cast iron. This will also allow me to torque the head down more with our custom made AMS 11mm studs. These new studs have a 227,000 psi tensile strength where the ARP studs I was running in the old block were only 190,000 psi. I should be able to torque the head to 110 lbs instead of only 90 lbs.


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boznuttz
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You're 16...you are going to KILL yourself.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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9sec240 wrote:
Blowing a motor IMO has negative connotations. To me, blowing a motor brings up visions of blown head gaskets, melted pistons, bearing issues, etc.. things related to assembly or tuning.
Well... I guess well just have to agree to disagree. (just kidding, I hate that phrase). Thanks for the story man... it was a good read.

Swedish Mike
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Ivan: A friend of mine had the same problem (a 2.1 litre 1250bhp iron block engine), he went through 4 blocks before he found the problem, always cracks in 4:th cylinder.After using thicker cylinder walls without result they x-rayed the engine in the dyno.The water boiled at the 4:th cylinder walls, impossible to see since the system pressure and water temp was ok.We call it local boiling here, don´t know the US word but the cylinder cracks or implode, hard to trace since the block pieces implode and then out again because of the cylinder pressure. Looks like the regular blown cylinder walls when you remove the head.

The solution (after weeks of testing) was to mount 1" pipes in the side of the block, 4 pipes on each side.The fab a "manifold" on each side af feed it with water, electrical pump.Either you push the water through the block side to side or put pressure on both sides and mount a return pipe at the front or rear of the block.

Don´t know if this is the problem or if you even care but wanted to share.

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Edub1
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A penguin takes his car to a mechanic and while he is waiting goes accross the street and has some vanilla ice cream. He returns with ice cream all over his beak and the mechanic comes out and sais "looks like you blew a seal" to which the penguin replies, "no, it's just ice creame."

Bada bum.

nissanfanatic
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boznuttz wrote:You're 16...you are going to KILL yourself.
Notice: Must be over 25 to know anything!

If he builds his car, then WTF is the problem..?? I bought most of my parts when I was 17... Turbo'd a month after I turned 18.. And I'm still on my first car/engine.

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You are obviously lying...young people always crash. Being young totally destroys any and all ability to function as a normal person. Once you turn 25 you will never wreck because your skill becomes impeccable and you get an automatic forcefield around your entire car.

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Edub1
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WDRacing wrote:You are obviously lying...young people always crash. Being young totally destroys any and all ability to function as a normal person. Once you turn 25 you will never wreck because your skill becomes impeccable and you get an automatic forcefield around your entire car.
LOL, being older does make you more experienced and a little less over confident. Insurance companies make their Billions by knowing their buisness, there is a reason they reduce rates at 25.

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WDRacing
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Actually its because yunger people are more prown to speeding. Which I suppose is reckless driving...but hello...this is a tech forum for making your car go faster. I don't wanna see people arguing BS age issues.

When I got my license, almost every car on the road was RWD and had a V8...you are either a good driver, or you aren't. I know quite a few older people who SUCK at driving. Not to mention ANYONE from Florida reguardless of age...lol.

WD

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^Hey buddy... Florida drivers are all professional drivers compared to VA drivers..

Insurance companies probably just charge more for young drivers because they know we will go without most necessary supplies to have the ability to drive. We have to make it to class/work. If you are married, well your significant other can usually drop you off at work. Its easier to have one vehicle. Single, 21, chances are you have places to be that are important..

Speed doesn't cause wrecks. Speed is a force multiplier. Errors in judgment cause wrecks..

And insurance companies make their billions by the fact that insurance is required by law. Its kinda like tax, which is how the government also makes their billions.

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eazye2000
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Yeah, I'm originally from Florida and lived there till I was 21. I've got PLENTY of skillz from weaving in and out of old people all day... Not to mention, whatever you needed, you could find it there. You could drive to wherever you wanted, and back again in a day. There were also about 10 junk yards in a 20 mile radius. There's like 3 in the state of MA..

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boznuttz
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Lol, I'm just saying that 500 rwhp on an s chasis is INSANE. Some local kid around here took his stock d16 ek hatch Civic, unloaded his father's wallet, and had a boosted b18c5 motor pushing 340ish to the wheels right after he got his driver's license....he put it through a guardrail a few blocks away from my house the second day he had it....... He was lucky to survive. I'm not bashing on people with cash at hand or age, but I do believe in starting small and learning to control what you have progressively.

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WDRacing
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You also have to realize that he'll probably end up pushing 300 in reality. 500 takes some serious wrenching...

WD

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boznuttz
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If you have the cash readily availiable I mean, lol.

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Chezedik
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Wow, I just looked at that STS kit, and it is without a doubt, the most retarded thing I have ever seen.

TheOne
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Chezedik wrote:Wow, I just looked at that STS kit, and it is without a doubt, the most retarded thing I have ever seen.
whats so retarded about it? the fact that the turbo is on the back? sorry chez but do more research on it, tho it prolly wont work well on I4's, it sure has done well on corvettes.

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Chezedik wrote:Wow, I just looked at that STS kit, and it is without a doubt, the most retarded thing I have ever seen.
Yea..according to the local GTO I raced back home and didn't "COMPLETELY" destroy, it does work.. And he had way more initial acceleration than I did even from 60..(although I had wheelspin) Needless to say, I did lay down the law in 4th gear..

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Chezedik
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Uhm, the obscene piping, and oil line length for one. They claim it acts as a natural oil cooler, but I think that it increases the dry running time of the turbo. The intercooler piping is a natural intercooler right, try total restriction, since it must be so small that 12 feet of it won't cause obscene lag. How about the danger of running an oil line, and intake lines from the back of the car to the front. A scrape or a well placed rock and you bought a motor. Finally, how about the extra long vacuum line that you are forced to run to the WG (at least in the universal kit), big boost creep unless you install a bung on the turbo for boost reference. Then you have a low boost level.

Maybe I was a little hard about it being the MOST retarded thing I have ever seen, but I haven't seen two retards try doggy-style.

Turbo setups are built the way they are for a reason. If this was the best idea (or even a good one) you would see more of them. Sorry, believe what you want, but if you want reliability, you will use the tried and true method.

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Chezedik
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TheOne wrote:
whats so retarded about it? the fact that the turbo is on the back? sorry chez but do more research on it, tho it prolly wont work well on I4's, it sure has done well on corvettes.
If it is better, than how come APS makes a kit that puts down almost 100 more whp with smaller turbos?

Also, I forgot about the fun one would have installing a boost controller... especially manual...


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