5 out of 6 ain't bad.......

[Sil240]

Ok, so my cars been running rough.I though it was because my BOV was open at idle.I shoved 5 washers in there and she idles pretty good now.Except..... for the fact that the # 6 cyl isn't firing.I figured this out by pulling the injector clip off with the engine running.There was no audible change.

At first I thought the injector must be bad.So I had another KA24E injector hanging around and I tested it on a battery to make sure it worked. I could hear it click, but didn't or couldn't see the pintle moving.(so I assumed it worked)

I threw the injector in there hoping that was the problem.But... of course it wasn't.

I thought maybe it was the coil pack.I found the procedure to check the resistance and I got NO reading.I thought GREAT I just need a new coil pack and she'll run right... So I checked the spark plug, it was sparking.WTF!!!!

I went to the junkyard anyway and picked up a Q45 # 2 Coil pack.There was only 1 so hopefully it works.I also took a look at the other coil packs and the reason why we can't use them is because the wiring is in different positions.But if you really had to I would assume that you could switch the pins right???? The connector looks the same just elongated.Also looks like I have to switch the boot on it.Q45's have longer and skinnier boots.

My mission later tonight is to:1) Dodge the other stuff I have to do2) Sneak into the garage and work on the car3) Put the Q45 coil pack on4) Switch the #6 injector with another that is working. (maybe the injector is stuck or just clogged.

Anyone have any suggestions???

[240z4u]

That is the cylinder that typically gets cooked if your using a forward facing manifold. Don't do anything else until you compression test it.

[Fibre guy]

Compression check time! It doesn't get as much air as the others because its furthest away. We all know that a hole in a piston will make anyone sad... personal exp.

[Carl H]

this sounds bad but i dont think its run long enough for it to burn a hole in the piston...

[Sil240]

Woah!!!!Don't say that!!!

My motor is BRAND Spanking new.Just got it running.Its been rebuilt with JE's.EVERYTHING from top to bottom is either NEW or been Re-freshed or checked.

Here's my setup:Rb20Bored out with JE Forged pistonsStock Rods and Crank (Magnafluxed to make sure they're ok)New BearingsNew Valve springsPolished Cams3 angle valve jobStock lower Intake runners with the Top Hat Upper plenum (foward facing)Stock injectors (mix of KAE and RB20)Stock position SSAC exhaust ManiT3/T04E turboFMICCarlH wire harnessStock ECU

Known Problems:No Tach signal out of ECU (pin 7)Battery drain (did the test found nothing)Either that or Alternator is toast. (have not checked it)Or Tiny PC680 batt can't keep up

Now you've got me worried.I'll Compression test it too

The cars only gotten up to running temp maybe 4-5 times.Not for too long either, cause the tiny battery always dies out too.
Modified by Sil240 at 4:41 PM 4/27/2009

[Fibre guy]

I was assuming you just swapped it in because you didn't say you rebuilt it, sorry for making you freak. I had a battery drain too but it turned out to be a wrong gauge wire when I rewired for r33 gauges.

[Sil240]

I'm not sure if the 6th cyl ever ran actually.

Because the car has always idled crappy and it would run funny.Now that I got the Idle to run ok, I started to wonder why it would pop every once in a while.

Yeah I gotta trace that batt drain down, its a PITA. I got some 2 gauge wire to put a regular size battery in the hatch & rule out the battery.

I really hope the injector isn't opening or something cheap and easy.!!!!

I am getting signal to the injector and I put a ratchet extension on the injector and I do hear it ticking. The coil pack outside of the cylinder is sparking.

[dtowngoalie]

The coil pack outside of the cylinder is sparking.

Do you mean the coil pack itself is arcing? If so you need to cover it with electical tape.

[Sil240]

No, I pulled the spark plug out of the engine and stuck it into the coil pack.Then I used a rachet extension to ground it.

But the other coils without spark plugs were Arcing not through the bottom (were the spark plug goes) but through the plastic.

[Kansei240sx]

swap coil packs around and if you need to, do the same with plugs and injectors. If it moves to a different cylinder, replace the part that makes it bad.

[SullivanRacing06]

foward facing manifold

hope its not a top hat

f tophat!

[Sil240]

OK!!! I got her running on all 6 Cyl's!!!!!!!

I swapped the coil pack for the Q45 one.She was still not cooperating, then I got a new spark plug.Fired her up and all 6 going at the same time. (for me that's a record)

When i would just crack the throttle a little bit, she would start popping out of the ITM and the Intake.It sounded like a bubble or a rubber pluger.I assume that those were backfires, from all of the accumulated fuel.But that went away after a min of running.

I also went out and bought a compression tester. She came up as 130 COLD in the 6th Cyl.Tomorrow I'll check her hot. I was also too lazy to check the others.

Tomorrow I'll take her for a ride, hopefully no Hiccups.

And yeah...Its a Top Hat ITM.

[Carl H]

if the engine is fresh low compression is to be expected...gotta run it in, give it hell man...but dont be too harsh.

[Sil240]

Yeah I haven't had a chance to break her in as yet. But I first gotta throw a timing light on her to make sure she's timed right.Then Re-Torque the head.

Hopefully I can get some vids up.FYI- it'll probably be crappy quality either with my phone or camera.

Carl- I'm gonna email you about getting a chip done.

[240z4u]

Change the oil IMMEDIATELY. You were washing that cylinder with fuel and no spark. The fuel tends to run down past the rings into the oil pan and breaks the oil down.

Evan

[Sil240]

Yeah Def!!!!

I have all of that stuff ready to go.Needed to do that anyway, since the motor is new.

You guys have any pics of what size shavings might be in the oil filter?I'm gonna cut it open after I change the oil, just to make sure there's no huge pieces in there.

[Sil240]

Ok, so I took the car for a ride yesterday.Lots of hesitation.Tighten the BOV down a bit.Helped a little, but as soon as there is any load the car stutters.

So I figured maybe the car wasn't timed correctly. Which... I haven't set the timing as yet.

So I went out bought a timing light, cause no one rents them in FL for some reason.Ghey on them!!!

So I got the one with the built in digital tach advance and all the bells and whistles. (because I have no tach yet)Gotta hook up the Dakota digital box and my defi tach.

Now I'm fighting to get this damn thing timed right. I Used the loop, and the White wire on the #1 coil and its off. It shows that I'm about 30-45 deg BDTC.

So i'm gonna try RB25drag's spark plug wire setup later today.

And since my Camshaft key is broken, I'm going to check to make sure the CAS is in properly.

Has anyone noticed that you have the pull the CAS out a bit before it will turn????

[Darius]

If the timing belt didn't skip a tooth, I'm going to put my money on the CAS being at the incorrect angle. 30-45* advanced is a $hit ton and when you got on it, the ECU was probably seeing serious knock and pulling timing as far as it possibly could. Get that situated before you do anything else. That far advanced and I wouldn't be surprised if it was seeing knock at idle.

[Sil240]

I'm gonna try to make that spark plug wire first. Because I got the same reading with the Black loop on the ignitor as the White wire on the #1 coil pack.

Maybe its the timing light.

If I still get the same reading with the spark plug wire, then I'll check the CAS, then the Timing belt.

The car hesitates only for a little then once it gets going it pulls fine. Definetly could have more power, but It feels smooth.

I was thinking that the timing was off a bit and I had a boost leak somewhere.I'm gonna make a boost leak checker thingie and make sure I don't have any.

[Fibre guy]

Your in the same boat as me with the hesitation... Does yours feel fine soon after you pass 3-4k rpm too?

[Carl H]

stock fuel pump?stock fpr?

[Andyb2637]

Def do a boost check, hope thats what the issue is. How does the car react when u get on it???

[Sil240]

I've got a Walbro 255 and a stock FPR as of right now.I do have a SX boost dependent FPR, but its not installed as yet.

Yeah I bought some pieces to make one of those boost leak checker thingie's but I got the wrong size Dia for my intake. Gonna go exchange it.

My buddy just sent me a Innovative LM-1 so I can hook that up and I got the wire so I can re-try and time the car.




Modified by Sil240 at 3:26 PM 5/3/2009

[Sil240]

Argghh!!!!!

So I made the boost leak checker and hooked it up. I found 2 leaks.The tiny nipple below the Tbody and the Idle valve on the back of the manifold.

I'm a bit PISSSED now.I have the "GREAT" Top Hat Plenum and the hole for IACV was not a clean hole.It looked like someone went crazy with a plazma cutter or a something really jagged.

From the inside:

From the Outside:



With the IACV on:

[Sil240]

HELLPP!!!!The pics I just posted are Godzilla size.How do I make them smaller???

[Carl H]

did you rescale them when you uploaded them to photobucket?suck that the Tophat manifold is so crappy in build quality...

[Darius]

That is just a cosmetic issue there, but hopefully you can get a decent seal with RTV.

And what TB are you running?

[Sil240]

Yeah I'm gonna try to re-seal it again tonight.I was soo pissed off yesterday. I knew I should of sent it back as soon as I got it. Too late now.

It's leaking a lot from below the IACV.Will RTV hold up to boost?

I'm using the stock RB20 one. I had a Q45 but didn't want to kill my Throttle response, so I traded it for a Z32 maf.

No, I don't believe I rescaled them before i uploaded them.But they're HUGE.Is there anyway to shrink them?

Yeah there was tons of slag in there.So i got a file and sand paper and smoothed out the inside.I didn't want little pieces of metal flying through my motor.

Could this un-metered air cause my motor to change timing? other than knock?

I started the car and set the timing to 15*.But the motor was COLD.Then all of a sudden the idle kicked up. (my car doesn't idle well, because of this leak)And the timing Advanced itself about 10-15*.

[Darius]

RTV will hold up to boost as long as you don't leave big thick gasket of it. If you tighten the bolts on the IACV, it will be fine. The metered air loss shouldn't cause the ignition timing to change.

When you're setting the timing, you cannot set it while the engine is cold. You have to wait for it to warm up because the ECU will advance the timing as the engine heats up.

[Sil240]

I found this on the web:"Cracked vacuum hoses create an air leak that is not metered by the computers systems. When unmetered air is introduced into the system, the computer sees this as an extremely lean condition. This means that there is too much air and not enough fuel. The computer arrives at this conclusion when it monitors the free oxygen sensors. The oxygen sensors' signal is generated by free oxygen passing over the sensor and indicates whether the mixture is to lean or rich to produce the desirable 14.5 to 1 mixture. The computer in turn will try to enrich the mixture to prevent a lean mixture. This will further cause a necessary increase in timing to burn the extra fuel. "

That leak under the IACV is sucking air at idle, until the turbo spools up, then is blowing air.

So that is probably why the car hesitates and stutters, till a certain RPM/the turbo spooling up. Then the car pulls fine. Not enough power, but ok. I guess that is due to the Stock ECU, injectors and the Boost Leaks.

So hopefully when I patch this leak up, I wont have to have the hole welded smaller.And that it'll cure all of my problems.