5 lug conversion from S12
-
sensibleS13driver
- Posts: 3012
- Joined: Tue Sep 21, 2004 7:20 am
5 lug conversion from S12
simple question, can I use the hubs and/or brake rotors from a 5 lug S12 on my S13? thanks a lot.
um not sure if that will work bu i know the breaks from the z31 and the hubs will work here is how it is done if ur still intrested eventhught it was a while ago.
Nissan 90 - 96 300ZX TT brake conversion for the S12
Parts I Used:
R31 GTS-T struts and hubs 10mm longer wheel studs 10mm wheel spacers R32 GTS-T ,Z32TT ,Z32nonturbo etc calipers, (n.b. the z32 nonturbo calipers take a 26mm-24mm thick rotor, all the rest take a thick 30mm rotor). Rotors to match above calipers, (or 22mm rotors like s13 sr20det rotors, or U13 or Maxima rotors and make up spacers to go behind the pads). Brake lines to suit the above calipers Rims with sufficient ‘front’ clearance to clear the front of the above calipers.
*For all pics related to this mod, click this link: Z32 Brake Pictures
R31 GTS-t struts
NB MUST BE FROM A GTS or GTS-T MODEL (OTHER R31 skyline struts are different!!)
Of course this varies depending on where you source them from, but from importers who know the significance of the need for these struts I was quoted from $300 to $500 a pair.
I was lucky and got mine from an import parts place that normally only wrecked later skyline stuff and paid $150 for the pair, (shop around).
Sorry bit of a downer here, these struts are getting harder to find now I’m told.
Makes sense though R31’s are an old car now in Japan.
(For guys in the states see the post I put up on the s12club site re late model Z31 hubs/struts (Ithink late late88/early 89) that take a floating slip on type rotor, if there is such a thing this may be a possibility for you.
10mm wheel longer wheel studs
I got mine from Repco, (they have a book with heaps of wheel studs in them and you take one of your R31 studs out and take it along and compare it to the ones in the catalogue till you find one that suits your needs. The ones I got were a different thread pitch (1.5mm as opposed to 1.25mm), but they came with nuts so I didn’t care, $5 per stud including nuts, ($40 for the 8). Part Number: NS3420, (refer to picture studscompared.jpg).
10mm Wheel Spacers (Actually illegal, but you need them)
I had a pair I got in Japan, there they cost me $12 for the pair from my local hardware store there. Here get them from Repco or similar, the same catalogue the wheel studs were listed in, had heaps of pictures of wheel spacers, so Repco would be the go. I think you pay from $20 to $25 dollars a pair.
Nissan 4 pots
Price varies greatly on these, I have seen them privately for $200 to $250. But I have seen them at importers for $450 a pair or more. Get them with all pad retaining pins, locking wires and top clips where possible and the flexible/copper brake lines if you can. In saying that if you get a bare pair like I did don’t despair, (hey can’t complain mine were free!! From my brother in Japan) as you can use s/hand Toyota parts, (why because good old Nissan don’t sell these components separately, you have to buy the full caliper rebuild kit, which is bloody expensive), which I will explain later.
Rotors
30mm rotors
These go from $100- $150 private s/hand and $250 or more from wreckers.
n.b. for calipers that came off a non-turbo Z32, these rotors are to thick, you need a rotor that is 26mm,(24mm minimum).
22mm rotors.
All the following Nissan vehicles use the same 22mm rotor:- s13 sr20det (ca18 rotors are no good as they are only 18mm thick garbage), u13 Altima/ bluebird, or late 80’s early 90’s Maxima (sorry can’t remember the model designation). Really haven’t checked prices on these.
Or of course check the trusty old DBA online disc rotor catalogue for other vehicles’ rotors which are of the same dimension.
N.B. If you use these thinner rotors (i.e. 22mm) you will have to make spacers to go behind the pads, (I’ll explain later how to do this)
Brake lines.
Your existing caliper flexible brake lines won’t work with these calipers. Importers charge $45 each (per side) for brake lines to suit these calipers. Nissan charge $90 or more for new ones.
Don’t despair, Z31 have a single rear line that’s the same, (not the ones that go to the calipers), this line goes from one swing arm to the body of the car). I got 2 of these, (off 2 separate Z31’s), for $10 each. ( I suspect many of the Nissan IRS cars use this same flexible line.) Then you need a short copper line to go from the strut
To the caliper, I had some old hilux 4 x 4 ones that were perfect, I wouldn’t pay more than $5 each for these from your local U-pull it.
(see picture ‘brakelines.jpg’ and ‘linesfitted.jpg’)
NB DO NOT TELL WRECKERS WHAT YOU WANT STUFF FOR AS PRICES OFTEN GO UP HEAPS IF YOU DO!!
Rims
Well of course this depends on whether you have a nice set of new alloys in mind.
But of course either way you need to remember the front caliper clearance, (and your gonna need heaps!! i.e. 65mm from the front braking face of the rotor to the inside face of the rim.!!).
I got a set of U13 Altima/bluebird 15� alloys because the centre section is nice and deep, helping to clear the calipers,(see picture ‘wheelfitted1.jpg),yeah strange, they have 114.3mm spacing pattern, not 100mm like the pulsars,. Notice I said helping to clear the caliper, you still need the 10mm spacers). They cost me $150 for the set including centre trims from a wrecker I know. They have an offset of I’d say 45mm, (which is okay because the 10mm spacers then take the offset back to the standard 35mm for 910’s , s12’s etc).
NB Without rims that will clear your calipers there’s nothing you can do to make this conversion work.
How it’s done:
If you have the backing plates on your struts you need to cut away the corners near the calipers to make room for the bigger 4 spots.
You then need to knock out your old wheel studs, first screw on an open style wheel nut, (so you don’t stuff the top part of the thread on the stud).
Then knock it out.
Put your new longer wheel nuts in, the splines are just slightly bigger, (on the ones I used ), so fit them all in, (DON’T HAMMER THEM IN BECAUSE THEY SEEM TO TIGHT!!), then fit a wheel on and tighten all the nuts and keep tightening them to pull the stud spline tight into the hub.
Take the wheel off and turn the strut over, there will still be a couple of mil of spline to go into the hub, get a bolt and put it into the middle of the back of the stud and tap (TAP not smash),them the rest of the way in.
Put your spacers on , then your calipers, lines etc, will all just be a straight bolt up. If you have had to rob locking pins, clips etc from Toyota calipers read on, also if you have decided to use Toyota pads read on.
Toyota pads
Before you buy the Toyota pads you must source shims from a set of Toyota calipers, if you can’t get these don’t buy the Toyota pads!!,(because the back of the Toyota pads have some holes in them that can’t be pressed by your caliper pistons, the pistons press the shims, which press the rotor). I striped them off a pair of calipers in a U-pull-it yard.
The Toyota calipers actually use 2 shims, an inner and an outer,(i.e. closest to the pad) I have the outers, (they have slots in them), but I decided just to use the inner ones, which are essential and are shown in the picture ‘ToyotaShimRequired.jpg’.
.
NB Model of Landcruisers which have the calipers where parts are sourced from are late 80 series, (not 1980’s but actual model designation ’80 series’): FZJ80,HDJ80,HZJ80 = 8/92 – 1/98.
NB Rip off the little silver wear indicators at the bottom of the pads as they are a bloody nuisance and may damage your expensive rotors!!
Toyota – pad retaining pins, top lock plate and lock wires.(Refer to picture ‘Toyota fittings1.jpg’).
· Pad retaining pins These pins are from the above mentioned Landcruiser calipers. The holes for the lock pins are actually to far in for Nissan calipers, so you need to slide the pins into the Nissan calipers and mark new holes and pull them out and drill the new holes with a 1.6mm or 2mm bit.
· Toyota Top locking plates, (the funny looking tin plates with the side bits refer to them on the far right of picture ‘Toyotafittings1.jpg’). These things are exactly the same as the Nissan ones, except they are 1 to 1.5mm wider on the side bits, just grind them back 1.5mm on each side and they’re perfect.
· Toyota lock wires, (refer to them on the far right of the above pic).
Sorry these are to short to fit the Nissan caliper, so I just used the small slide clips you can barely see in the pic, (sorry my digi cam is ****), and then after you slide them in bend them over like a split pin.
Spacers for 22mm rotors: get a Nissan disc pad, (or a Toyota one if you are using Toyota pads) and trace around it on the steel plate you are cutting your spacers out of, including the holes for the retaining pins to go through. Then cut the spacers out, finish the shaping with a file , bench grinder, or die grinder; then drill the holes for the retaining pins.
Thickness:- calipers from an R32GTS-T, Z32TT or s14 etc, each spacer needs to be from 3mm thick steel. For calipers from a Z32non-turbo, you only need 1.5mm spacers, (even 1mm would be okay).
That’s it. Now just assemble everything and you’re off, or should I say finally stopping properly.
Nissan 90 - 96 300ZX TT brake conversion for the S12
Parts I Used:
R31 GTS-T struts and hubs 10mm longer wheel studs 10mm wheel spacers R32 GTS-T ,Z32TT ,Z32nonturbo etc calipers, (n.b. the z32 nonturbo calipers take a 26mm-24mm thick rotor, all the rest take a thick 30mm rotor). Rotors to match above calipers, (or 22mm rotors like s13 sr20det rotors, or U13 or Maxima rotors and make up spacers to go behind the pads). Brake lines to suit the above calipers Rims with sufficient ‘front’ clearance to clear the front of the above calipers.
*For all pics related to this mod, click this link: Z32 Brake Pictures
R31 GTS-t struts
NB MUST BE FROM A GTS or GTS-T MODEL (OTHER R31 skyline struts are different!!)
Of course this varies depending on where you source them from, but from importers who know the significance of the need for these struts I was quoted from $300 to $500 a pair.
I was lucky and got mine from an import parts place that normally only wrecked later skyline stuff and paid $150 for the pair, (shop around).
Sorry bit of a downer here, these struts are getting harder to find now I’m told.
Makes sense though R31’s are an old car now in Japan.
(For guys in the states see the post I put up on the s12club site re late model Z31 hubs/struts (Ithink late late88/early 89) that take a floating slip on type rotor, if there is such a thing this may be a possibility for you.
10mm wheel longer wheel studs
I got mine from Repco, (they have a book with heaps of wheel studs in them and you take one of your R31 studs out and take it along and compare it to the ones in the catalogue till you find one that suits your needs. The ones I got were a different thread pitch (1.5mm as opposed to 1.25mm), but they came with nuts so I didn’t care, $5 per stud including nuts, ($40 for the 8). Part Number: NS3420, (refer to picture studscompared.jpg).
10mm Wheel Spacers (Actually illegal, but you need them)
I had a pair I got in Japan, there they cost me $12 for the pair from my local hardware store there. Here get them from Repco or similar, the same catalogue the wheel studs were listed in, had heaps of pictures of wheel spacers, so Repco would be the go. I think you pay from $20 to $25 dollars a pair.
Nissan 4 pots
Price varies greatly on these, I have seen them privately for $200 to $250. But I have seen them at importers for $450 a pair or more. Get them with all pad retaining pins, locking wires and top clips where possible and the flexible/copper brake lines if you can. In saying that if you get a bare pair like I did don’t despair, (hey can’t complain mine were free!! From my brother in Japan) as you can use s/hand Toyota parts, (why because good old Nissan don’t sell these components separately, you have to buy the full caliper rebuild kit, which is bloody expensive), which I will explain later.
Rotors
30mm rotors
These go from $100- $150 private s/hand and $250 or more from wreckers.
n.b. for calipers that came off a non-turbo Z32, these rotors are to thick, you need a rotor that is 26mm,(24mm minimum).
22mm rotors.
All the following Nissan vehicles use the same 22mm rotor:- s13 sr20det (ca18 rotors are no good as they are only 18mm thick garbage), u13 Altima/ bluebird, or late 80’s early 90’s Maxima (sorry can’t remember the model designation). Really haven’t checked prices on these.
Or of course check the trusty old DBA online disc rotor catalogue for other vehicles’ rotors which are of the same dimension.
N.B. If you use these thinner rotors (i.e. 22mm) you will have to make spacers to go behind the pads, (I’ll explain later how to do this)
Brake lines.
Your existing caliper flexible brake lines won’t work with these calipers. Importers charge $45 each (per side) for brake lines to suit these calipers. Nissan charge $90 or more for new ones.
Don’t despair, Z31 have a single rear line that’s the same, (not the ones that go to the calipers), this line goes from one swing arm to the body of the car). I got 2 of these, (off 2 separate Z31’s), for $10 each. ( I suspect many of the Nissan IRS cars use this same flexible line.) Then you need a short copper line to go from the strut
To the caliper, I had some old hilux 4 x 4 ones that were perfect, I wouldn’t pay more than $5 each for these from your local U-pull it.
(see picture ‘brakelines.jpg’ and ‘linesfitted.jpg’)
NB DO NOT TELL WRECKERS WHAT YOU WANT STUFF FOR AS PRICES OFTEN GO UP HEAPS IF YOU DO!!
Rims
Well of course this depends on whether you have a nice set of new alloys in mind.
But of course either way you need to remember the front caliper clearance, (and your gonna need heaps!! i.e. 65mm from the front braking face of the rotor to the inside face of the rim.!!).
I got a set of U13 Altima/bluebird 15� alloys because the centre section is nice and deep, helping to clear the calipers,(see picture ‘wheelfitted1.jpg),yeah strange, they have 114.3mm spacing pattern, not 100mm like the pulsars,. Notice I said helping to clear the caliper, you still need the 10mm spacers). They cost me $150 for the set including centre trims from a wrecker I know. They have an offset of I’d say 45mm, (which is okay because the 10mm spacers then take the offset back to the standard 35mm for 910’s , s12’s etc).
NB Without rims that will clear your calipers there’s nothing you can do to make this conversion work.
How it’s done:
If you have the backing plates on your struts you need to cut away the corners near the calipers to make room for the bigger 4 spots.
You then need to knock out your old wheel studs, first screw on an open style wheel nut, (so you don’t stuff the top part of the thread on the stud).
Then knock it out.
Put your new longer wheel nuts in, the splines are just slightly bigger, (on the ones I used ), so fit them all in, (DON’T HAMMER THEM IN BECAUSE THEY SEEM TO TIGHT!!), then fit a wheel on and tighten all the nuts and keep tightening them to pull the stud spline tight into the hub.
Take the wheel off and turn the strut over, there will still be a couple of mil of spline to go into the hub, get a bolt and put it into the middle of the back of the stud and tap (TAP not smash),them the rest of the way in.
Put your spacers on , then your calipers, lines etc, will all just be a straight bolt up. If you have had to rob locking pins, clips etc from Toyota calipers read on, also if you have decided to use Toyota pads read on.
Toyota pads
Before you buy the Toyota pads you must source shims from a set of Toyota calipers, if you can’t get these don’t buy the Toyota pads!!,(because the back of the Toyota pads have some holes in them that can’t be pressed by your caliper pistons, the pistons press the shims, which press the rotor). I striped them off a pair of calipers in a U-pull-it yard.
The Toyota calipers actually use 2 shims, an inner and an outer,(i.e. closest to the pad) I have the outers, (they have slots in them), but I decided just to use the inner ones, which are essential and are shown in the picture ‘ToyotaShimRequired.jpg’.
.
NB Model of Landcruisers which have the calipers where parts are sourced from are late 80 series, (not 1980’s but actual model designation ’80 series’): FZJ80,HDJ80,HZJ80 = 8/92 – 1/98.
NB Rip off the little silver wear indicators at the bottom of the pads as they are a bloody nuisance and may damage your expensive rotors!!
Toyota – pad retaining pins, top lock plate and lock wires.(Refer to picture ‘Toyota fittings1.jpg’).
· Pad retaining pins These pins are from the above mentioned Landcruiser calipers. The holes for the lock pins are actually to far in for Nissan calipers, so you need to slide the pins into the Nissan calipers and mark new holes and pull them out and drill the new holes with a 1.6mm or 2mm bit.
· Toyota Top locking plates, (the funny looking tin plates with the side bits refer to them on the far right of picture ‘Toyotafittings1.jpg’). These things are exactly the same as the Nissan ones, except they are 1 to 1.5mm wider on the side bits, just grind them back 1.5mm on each side and they’re perfect.
· Toyota lock wires, (refer to them on the far right of the above pic).
Sorry these are to short to fit the Nissan caliper, so I just used the small slide clips you can barely see in the pic, (sorry my digi cam is ****), and then after you slide them in bend them over like a split pin.
Spacers for 22mm rotors: get a Nissan disc pad, (or a Toyota one if you are using Toyota pads) and trace around it on the steel plate you are cutting your spacers out of, including the holes for the retaining pins to go through. Then cut the spacers out, finish the shaping with a file , bench grinder, or die grinder; then drill the holes for the retaining pins.
Thickness:- calipers from an R32GTS-T, Z32TT or s14 etc, each spacer needs to be from 3mm thick steel. For calipers from a Z32non-turbo, you only need 1.5mm spacers, (even 1mm would be okay).
That’s it. Now just assemble everything and you’re off, or should I say finally stopping properly.