4WAS And Stability Control Lights: Need help

[tfs1975]

Good day all,
I have helped and have been helped many times through this site. Hopefully that is the case in this instance as well. I am on my 3rd M. I have had a 2006 and 2007 M35 and now I have a 2012 M37 Sport. M37 is out of warrantly due to mileage with 74k. I was driving recently and the 4WAS and Stability control lights came on. I looked into the PS fluid levels, which was fine and also looked at the battery (as some had suggested). Battery was a little on the weak side so decided to replace it. Lights came on again. Decided to take it the Infiniti stealership to diagnose the issue. To my dismay and disbelief they told me that the rear stearing actuator/controler (part number 55705-1MTOA) was bad and that it needed to be replaced. Cost of the part alone was quoted at $5200.00 and labor was an additonal $1000.00 for a grand total of $6200.00. This literally floored me. I have never gotten a price tag that large in any Infiniti/Nissan I had ever owned and I have owned many( 87 D21 Hardbody, 91 Pathfinder, 01 Pathfinder, 300ZX Z32 TT (still own), 06 M35, 07 M35 and my current 12 M37s). It's basically the rear rack and pinion, like HICAS on a 300ZX TT. I started doing research and there isn't much out there on this issue. Has anyone here had any run ins with this? I went online and looked at the part and found it considerably cheaper for $3500.00. Apparently Austin Infiniti is the biggest stealership I have ever been to. I have also found a few used ones that i can purchase for about $1000.00. My concern is spending the money, changing it out and it not being the issue. With so little out there about this, I find it hard to believe that this is actually the issue. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I don't want this to be my lasting impression of this car. Thank you in advance for any help you may be able to provide.

[Debonair]

Did they provide you any information how they diagnosed this part as the issue? It may be listed on your work order. If not I would ask for it.

If it was purely based on a diagnostic trouble code what is the code?

Just looking at a picture of the part it appears to have an electric motor. If this motor is failing perhaps it can be rebuilt.

[Ilya]

You may be better off spending $2500 (or whatever it is, probably less than the cost of the part on an Elite warranty (MUST BE INFINITI ELITE) and paying the $100 deductible (or whatever you get) to get the part done 'under warranty'. You'll likely still come out on top...and still have it for another year or two for other crap that may or may not break.

[Mjkkb2]

the problem with going the warranty route is that the issue is now in the system so with a high repair bill it most likely will be flagged, investigated and denied as a preexisting condition. On top of that to purchase the elite plan one needs to have an inspection done (at the dealer) and submitted to the elite retailer. I would think that with any dash lights on it would be problematic to pass such inspection.

I feel for your problem, I had these light come on for me twice early into the ownership, but they went away on their own. I had never gotten it diagnosed, and hope I never have to.

good luck.

[Ilya]

the problem with going the warranty route is that the issue is now in the system so with a high repair bill it most likely will be flagged, investigated and denied as a preexisting condition. On top of that to purchase the elite plan one needs to have an inspection done (at the dealer) and submitted to the elite retailer. I would think that with any dash lights on it would be problematic to pass such inspection.

I feel for your problem, I had these light come on for me twice early into the ownership, but they went away on their own. I had never gotten it diagnosed, and hope I never have to.

good luck.

Doh!

Totally forgot about the inspection as I got my current warranty while buying the car (so they already knew its condition) and I got the warranty for my 07 back in like 2010...brain fart.

Disregard!

[Larz]

Sorry to hear about this. Seems like nothing this major should go bad after just a few years. I wonder if there is a way to find out how often this part had failed on other Mx's so you can write to corporate to see if they can persuade the dealer to absorb some of the cost?

[tfs1975]

Good afternoon all. I figured I'd give an update as to the issue described above. I really hate looking at other posts issues with no updates given. So....not much good news as of yet. Since the original post I have done a few things which to my dismay have not fixed the issue. I was told originally that the enire actuator was bad and was quoted over $6k to repair. Well, I requested the diagnostic info from the dealership and checked the DTC codes. I've also read the FSM (not an easy read). I found a used actuator from a wrecked (front end wreck) 2012 M56. Same part number and purchased it for what I would consider cheap in comparison to dealer price new. It was guaranteed working. Installed it and still the issue remained. Went back to infiniti and hooked up to consult again. This time they told me that the voltage seems to work but then drops off and the rear actuator becomes unresponsive. They said I need to change the 4WAS control box. I found one and changed it out and still the problem remains. Not sure what the next step is other than getting rid of the car. Not much help or advice has been offered and copius amounts of research have come up with nothing. Tried the facebook group of owners and that was an utter disappointment. Not sure what the next step wil be. There was a post on this same issue a while back but no updates followed. Hope someone reads this and has some advice. Almost sounds like a bad relay to me but I have no idea and cannot afford to throw money at the issue with hopes of it being fixed. Certainly don't want to go back to Infiniti as it seems they have no idea what they are talking about. Thanks all.

[Debonair]

What are they basing these diagnosises on? Are they still getting codes? If so let have a look.

[vmartin]

I am having the exact same problem with my Infiniti, and reading your post confirmed my biggest fear. I will replace the HICAS Actuator and the problem will not be resolved. The problem started 2 weeks ago and I had to take it into the dealership twice before they could tell me what the problem is. My dealership had to contact corporate because they had never seen this problem before. According to corporate, I need to have the HICAS actuator replaced.

I know it has been two years since your post, but am curious to know if it was ever resolved.

[EdBwoy]

vmartin, welcome to NICOclub!

How many miles does your M56 have?
Also, as Debonair asked above, might you have any diagnostic codes that the dealer pulled from the car?

I know some people have learned to live with this issue, but just as these forums exist, we might be able to find a solution.

[vmartin]

Good Morning.

I have 74k miles and I do not know what codes the computer had when I took it into the dealer.

Warning symbols: 4WAS, Stability Control, IBA off , lane departure, crash symbol

The first time I took it into the dealer was a Wednesday. They told me that they checked for codes and since there several codes (not aware of how many or what the codes were), they were going to clear all the codes and test drive the car to see if any codes would come up, or if the warning symbols would come on again. After test driving the car, they told me that the warning symbols did not come back on and felt the problem might be solved. They sent me on my way.

On my way home from the dealership, the warning lights went back on. I immediately called the dealer and informed them that the problem was not solved. I took the car back in on Friday and was informed that they would have to contact corporate because they had not seen this specific problem with any other car. I received a call on Monday informing me that it would cost me $6k to replace the HICAS Actuator. That corporate had informed them that other customers with those same warning lights on and had replaced the HICAS Actuator and that had solved the problem.

There is a slight difference in the way the warning lights lite up. Initially, it was all five warning symbols at once, after my visit to the dealer, the 4WAS and Stability control symbols lite up first, then seconds later the remaining 3 symbols light up.

I contacted Infinity Consumer Affairs for assistance. I asked them how many Infinity drivers have had this specific problem, and they of course said they did not track that type of information.

I have been paying very close attention to what is triggering the lights to go on and it seems that when I drive through a rough patch or are making a right or left turn and the asphalt is rough, it triggers the lights.

It sounds like there are customers that decide not to replace the HICAS and just live with these warning lights. Correct?

[EdBwoy]

Next time you're in a position to, please request the codes from the dealer if they can pull them from your records. I'll dig around the FSM to see what else is in the logic.

I'll also wait, hopefully we get an update from this other thread too - post6757848.html#p6757848

[bligz]

I have a 2011 M37 with 93k, and these lights just popped up yesterday. What was the end result? Is this a must fix? Pros/Cons of fixing vs not fixing? Thoughts Thank you

[Malbec 56 Beast]

If i recall correctly the 300zx turbo guys would replace this system with shocks but they were designed for the car. I was so pissed that the awd models didn't have this system but I'm so glad I don't.

Good luck guys.

Ps infiniti customer service is s*** they offer no help. I'm considering suing them.

Andy

[Mjkkb2]

I have a 2011 M37 with 93k, and these lights just popped up yesterday. What was the end result? Is this a must fix? Pros/Cons of fixing vs not fixing? Thoughts Thank you

There is another thread with more information from someone actually going through with the repair (or attempting to do it). DO a search and you shall find it. From what I recall the damn actuator was north of $2k just for the part, definately a very expensive fix....

[Frog]

I remember reading that it was no big deal if you basically left it alone. The repair is north of 4000 bucks so I would probably just leave it

[batdoc]

I’ve had this issue and unfortunately have ignored for almost 1 year in search of more economic options. The dealer even told me it’s not urgent and admitted it’s too expensive. The steering wheel does become off center if turning higher speeds or a slip in road detected on turns but resets itself when car turns off and back on. The dealer did do me a favor and try to change car to a setting where it wouldn’t be too problematic...from what I understood basically 2 wheel active steering instead...sorry I’m not sure..I was annoyed at time and I’ve mentally blocked it out. Ha

[stm37s]

I’ve had this issue and unfortunately have ignored for almost 1 year in search of more economic options. The dealer even told me it’s not urgent and admitted it’s too expensive. The steering wheel does become off center if turning higher speeds or a slip in road detected on turns but resets itself when car turns off and back on. The dealer did do me a favor and try to change car to a setting where it wouldn’t be too problematic...from what I understood basically 2 wheel active steering instead...sorry I’m not sure..I was annoyed at time and I’ve mentally blocked it out. Ha

Thanks for the info, this will kind of put some of us to ease knowing that this doesn't effect the car that much and pretty much still have reliability in these vehicles.

[GasguzzlingV8]

You are on the right track. Not even the infiniti certified technicians, corporate engineers etc. know exactly how to solve the issue. This is a simple inexpensive fix. Let me know if you are still struggling with the issue.