Post by
lifetrilly »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/lifetrilly-u219150.html
Wed Jun 26, 2013 5:30 pm
Hello guys, Im new to the forum so work with me now!
Anyway this seem like the right atmosphere to get some help. I got a 2000 I30, auto trans, and was doing a water pump replacement. yikes. Prior to, I've been hearing the chain rattle and assumed it was the tensioner or one of the arms inside. I put a scope up and noticed the location of the nose. I removed timing cover, which didn't matter since I had to replace H20 pump, and everything went smooth. Bearings in pump was shot so I replaced it. The tensioner on slack side was groovy and well lubed and applied ample piston pressure on rail and the chain was tight and somewhat new. I inspected the rail to see if the plastic slipped off (a common issue with this cheap BS rail design) and It was in order. Anyway when I tightened the chain slack back on pump sprocket and reassembled the car didn't start. It turned once and clunked out. I took everything BACK OFF and it appeared the cheap pumps sprocket (non OEM) had a bent tooth which in turn caused the chain either to skip god knows how many links or worse. I took the main chain off and tried to rotate crankshaft to TDC but it wouldn't budge past 1/2". Its locked pretty tight. So now comes the questions. Is this a interference engine? Without starting is there enough torque generated to bend a valve? Without the scope cam what options am I looking at to diag. Is there another reason as to why the crank is stuck? If so, whats the cheapest alternative: valve job, engine swap, or what? the engine has 150k and runs pretty smooth.