[4th Gen] Axle Replacement Job Pictures

[OwnerCS]

Pictures and some tips from the axle replacement job are listed below. If anyone has additional information to share, I'll be glad to include the information in this opening post.

Before you start, refer to the Field Service Manual (FSM) page FA-8 for wheel hub and knuckle removal instruction. A parts diagram is also located on page FA-20.

Some pictures and notes from my DIY driveway job are listed below.

1) Remove lower strut mounting bolts (yellow arrows) below.



2) Before completely removing the wheel bearing lock nut, I used a rubber mallet to tap and separate the drive shaft from the knuckle.



3) Once the strut mounting bolts have been removed, the knuckle will swing down so it can be separated from the drive shaft.



4) The following picture shows the drive shaft and knuckle after separation as described on the FA-13 of the FSM.



5) In some cases, the drive shaft carrier and bolts will need to be sprayed with penetrating oil in advance of removal. A 14mm swivel head Gear Wrench turned out to be valuable tool for removing the carrier bolts.



6) Once the bolts were removed, a chisel was required to separate the carrier from the drive shaft support bearing. Refer to page FA-15.



7) With the drive shafts removed on the manual transmission model, you can actually see through the transmission.


8) A drill with a steel wire brush was used to remove rust and polish the carrier. Lubricate the carrier before installing the drive shaft.



9) The drive shaft will slip into place with a slight movement to align and mate shaft splines into the pinion.



10) The following picture shows the knuckle reattached to the strut mounting bolt.



11) Later I had to replace the driver side axle seal. I found a piece of pipe at Lowe's that was an exact fit for "outside of the lip" seal rim. I used a file to smooth the pipe edge so it could not damage the seal. The coupling was good for gently tapping the pipe with a rubber hammer so seat the seal. BE CAREFUL ABOUT TAPPING THE SEAL IN TOO FAR OR YOU WILL DRIVE IT PAST THE MOUNTING EDGE AND IT WILL DROP INTO THE TRANSMISSION.

[loystock]

Nice job.

[maxhopper]

Interesting. I've always removed the carrier braket from the engine and removed it with the alxe.

[OwnerCS]

Thanks guys!

[OwnerCS]

This evening I found the transmission seal (driver side) leaking transmission (GL-4)lube. I replaced the seal in May with the axles. That seal didn't last long.. It had been holding lube just fin until this week. I'll be going into it again.

Also, I now have a 1999 I30 with an automatic transmission that I need to replace the axles also.

Any advice?

[maxhopper]

Try removing the axle support from the back of the engine block and reinstalling that after it is fully seated on the axle. Make sure the axle is fully seated into the transmission assembly. Replace the seals any time you remove the axles.

[OwnerCS]

Replaced the driver side seal yesterday without issue.

I found a piece of threaded iron pipe in the Lowe's plumbing section that is the exact size of seal outer rim (outside of the lip). The pipe is 12" long. I used it as a substitute for the seal mounting tool as described in the FSM. I also got a coupling that I put on the outside threaded surface to use with a rubber mallet to for evenly applying pressure to the seal area. Easy does it when mounting the seal as to keep it on the seal mounting surface area..

[OwnerCS]

Posted a picture of the pipe I found to mount the seal. An old seal is on the pipe for demonstration purposes. The new seal is holding lube just fine..