40k to long since last trans service for new flush?

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O5Q45
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Last transmission service done at dealer 41k ago.. Wondering if flush would be ok now? Currently 90,400 miles..


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Q451990
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I think it's a fine idea. Keep in mind that your transmission uses a special dealer-only ATF, unless someone has released a compatible one that I'm not aware of.

O5Q45
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Thanks for the reply- another quick question, under the hood of the F50 there are several warning stickers alerting to Only Use Matic J transmission fluid. I had heard this isn't made any longer.. and the S took its place..???

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szh
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S is a perfectly fine replacement for J ... just a newer formulation from Nissan.

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Your local mechanic can source this so you do not have to do the service at the dealership, your local mechanic can buy it locally or you can buy it mail order.

seldomseen
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O5Q45 wrote:Last transmission service done at dealer 41k ago.. Wondering if flush would be ok now? Currently 90,400 miles..
Just drain and refill....don't do a flush. :yesnod

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94Q45Beast
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I don't see how flushes could do any harm, as long as the transmission "out" flow = transmission "in" flow.....no?

ArmedAviator
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94Q45Beast wrote:I don't see how flushes could do any harm, as long as the transmission "out" flow = transmission "in" flow.....no?
They do not harm transmissions. They use pressure of the "outflow" transmission coolant line (old fluid) as the source of pressure for the "return" transmission fluid line (new fluid).

Usually reported failures after flushes (or even drain and fill) occur because the fluid was beyond its useful life, badly burnt, and lost its friction modifier properties. The ECU compensates for the changed properties by applying clutches more slowly with the old fluid. Once new fluid is in, the ECU doesn't know this so still applies clutches slowly. With the renewed friction modifier package, the friction caused between the clutches during these shifts wears the clutches significantly. This can lead to excessive clutch wear, overheating, and damage.

I ALWAYS recommend an ECU reset of any vehicle after an ATF change no matter how old the fluid is.

O5Q45
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ArmedAviator, I will absolutely go with the ECU reset. I already know the Nissan dealer I use for service (Infiniti dealer 120+miles) will either claim dumb to ECU reset or have some shcfeel as to why they don't can't or won't... So I would like to have argument in hand.. how is this done, what should be the additional cost if any, and how will I know it was done and I wasn't just yesed to death with false agreement and they did what they wanted in the first place.. seems the dealer always knows better and never wants to get technical I feel because they will not know what I am talking about and they have to maintain authority on there terf. Idiots.. anyways, ideas or answers? Thanks for the reply and Info-

ArmedAviator
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Disconnect the car's Negative battery terminal for 10 minutes. Reconnect and enjoy. This will clear the ECU's KAM (Keep-Alive-Memory) but may also cause saved radio stations and the life to be reset.

If it costs anything other than $0,00, find a different mechanic. Or just reset the ECU yourself before driving off the lot.


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