400whp

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mulletxdriftxx
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im reading around and im still trying to decide wether to build the ka or go with the sr motor. i was just wondering how much would it cost to get 400whp out of the ka? and what i sould watch for when going for that much hp.


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sunnys14
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itll cost u a grip for rebuilding THEN buying the turbo... close to $7k

mulletxdriftxx
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i have yet to see a turbo kit for $7k

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grimple1
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he's factoring in the engine rebuild... say + 3k for the engine + 3K for the turbo kit = + roughly 7k

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wild_maxx
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it will cost money to build the block. you will need at lease forged pistons to be safe and rods are a good idea. you will need a turbo, fuel system, and engine managment to get 400 hp. its not just bolt on and go 400 hp. you have to know what your doing. ( not that i do )

mulletxdriftxx
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ya i no u got to do the rods and pistions but i think i might go with ther sr swap cuse i can get a front clip and convert my 240 to rhd and build the motor then swap it in. so if i do that when i swap it ill put the ka up 4 sale

Florida240sx
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And you can do this for how much?Building the sr is goign to cost same amount of $$$ and then all that jdm RHD stuff is extra. When building the 2 engines prices equal out. Good turbo kit will run you 4k by the time oyu get clutch. Then you need a 2-3k built engine to hold the power.Don't forget you need suspension to allow the car to transfer power to the "stock wheels"

mulletxdriftxx
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well i said in the begining that i was still trying to decide ka or sr but i also want to convert it to rhd so buy buying the clip i will get the parts for the rhd and get a sr block to work with. snd be for i put it in i can get the suspension

Nismo_Freak
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Florida240sx wrote:And you can do this for how much?Building the sr is goign to cost same amount of $$$ and then all that jdm RHD stuff is extra. When building the 2 engines prices equal out. Good turbo kit will run you 4k by the time oyu get clutch. Then you need a 2-3k built engine to hold the power.Don't forget you need suspension to allow the car to transfer power to the "stock wheels"
Never give SR advice again, you don't know what you are talking about.

SR20DET - $2500 Clutch - $350 GT2871R - $1000Gaskets - $40Exhaust Setup - $700Intake Pipe w/ Filter - $130Hotpipe - $100FMIC Setup (BrandName) - $750Enthalpy Tune - $50072# Injectors - $200 Top Feed Rail - $100Aeromotive FPR - $150Misc Crap - $100Cams - $450Greddy Intake Mani - $450Fuel Pump - $100Headstuds - $120Headgasket - $200 (Buy only Apexi or Tomei)

Boost Gauge, yadda yadda.

Selling off stock crap - $1000 back in your pocket if the KA is good.

Of course if you are more resourceful you can save alot more than what is listed.

The only thing the SR needs at 400whp is a good tune, headgasket, and a set of headstuds.

Full boost by 4000 RPM, spool-up around 3400 RPM.

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Craving4Boost
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yeah people forget a SR is factory built for turbo...if they say a ka-t can handle stock bottom end 350hp...give the SR more credit

veilside180sx
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Questions like these are always quick to write, unfortunately the answers are not. They require a lot of time to write out. Here's a quick theory. I'll cover two...Budget and say 400 RWHP. These prices are including that you are doing the work, and you are knowledgeable enough to do so. Outsourcing your welding or doing it yourself will not be factored in.

Budget: Say about 200 rwhp

.........................KA24DET.................................SR20DETTurbo...................Z31 T3........$100-$150................StockTurbo Manifold......JGS Precision $150 DIY..........StockDownpipe.............Custom....$100 DIY................StockWastegate...........Internal.................................StockFuel Management SAFC2.....$200 used................Stock ECUInjectors..............370cc SR....$100 used............Stock 370 ccIntercooler...........Volvo FMIC $50-$100 used......Stock SidemountIntercooler Piping Custom.....$120 DIY.................StockBOV....................1g DSM......$60........................StockOil Lines..............JGS Precision.....$100 ..............StockFuel Pump...........Walbro 255 $90.................... Walbro 255 $90

Right about $1000 for the KA...........Average around $2500-4000 Depending on condition

Say this is for 400 RWHP Build Lists: Personally I would air on the side of caution for these things, and build both blocks. I know SR guys will whine, so I'll cater to those that like to run on the ragged edge of the envelope............................................KA24DET...........................SR20DETTurbo T3/T04E 50 Trim Stg 3,,,,,$600.............................SameTurbo Manifold GroundZero.....$700........Peak Boost.....$900 Intercooler 24x12x3 Core.........$300.............................$300Intercooler Piping......DIY............$120................DIY........$120Downpipe..................DIY...........$100.................DIY.......$100BOV..........................Tial...........$200................Tial........$200Wastegate.................Tial...........$200..................Tial.........$200Injectors.................720cc.........$350..................720cc.....$350Fuel Management JWT............$600..................JWT.......$600Z32 MAF...................................$120.............................$120Oil Lines..................JGS............$80...............................Stock Pistons.........Wiseco..................$500..............................StockRods.......................................Stock.............................StockVarious Rebuild Parts...............$300..............................StockMachine Work..........................$300Importing motor..........................................................$2500

Total......................................$4470.............................$5390

Draw your own conclusions, now for the SR boys I understand you like to run like say a GT2871R, but that's $1200. It would eliminate the external wastegate and new manifold though. Which would bring the price down just a little.

I knew Alan would chime in as well. This was I had written up for questions on another site as well so I just copied and pasted.

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DammitBobby
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There is a problem with your theory and that is you have know idea what the condition of the engine is until you install it. The KAT route if you build the engine, the cost will be around the price of a SR clip. From there you would buy a turbo kit which would also be new. The SR you would have to replace parts to get to the 400hp goal. I went KAT because I wanted to go new and not used.

I think the main thing you need to figure 400hp is it is going to cost you big bucks no matter which route you choose.

Nismo_Freak
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As far as the manifolds, on the SR you can go with a cheapy Ebay manifold and people have made 400whp on them. Saves a considerable amount of money.

The 02 housing, downpipe and all of that can also be purchased off of Ebay which is also cheap as hell.

Stock lines can be used on the turbo.

I would run an Enthalpy tune on the SR, and the JWT ECU's can be had for alot less on SPL's website.

The turbo you have listed is nice, but you factor in a $600 turbo, $200 wastegate, $100 lines, and a more expensive manifold you've already exceeded the cost of the GT2871R which is a superior turbocharger.

Also, don't forget the higher possibility of picking up used parts for the SR. The motor has been around for a good while and parts are everywhere. Case and point, I picked up my Blitz FM w/ Blitz BOV for $600 shipped and it was basically new.

In light of the recent KA failures I really would not suggest running a KA-T on stock rods at 400whp. I think the couple bucks extra far out-weigh the costs.

The KA has the side benefit of making good numbers on stock manifolds. Lending more from it's larger displacement, it can keep you away from spending good money on cams and an intake manifold which seem to be prerequisites in the SR side of things.

The SR aftermarket headgaskets are better than the Cometic crap thats sold, but it seems the KA version is holding up fine.

There are alot of possibilities for either setup to be more expensive or more costly in terms of time. I would suggest getting with someone who has either and seeing if they will give you a ride or, even better, letting you drive the car.

I orginally wanted to do a KA-T until I drove around in both. The SR was more of what I had in mind.

mulletxdriftxx
Posts: 94
Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2005 12:41 pm
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i know its going to cost alot but if i got the clip ill have a motor i can take the time and build right and make it strong and last and also do the rhd converion.

and ya i should find someone with the ka and sr and ask to take a ride in it and maby drive it and see which one is more wat i want and make my final decision fron ther

Kenrik
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I like the idea of the KA-T because you know that the engine is in great condition because it was just built and you know it was not driven around by some crazy Japanese kid for the past 50kms Also the KA has an Iron block which is really great!

I don't see 7k as really all that much money when you look at that price of a Corvette, S2000, 350z, etc... they all would need mods and tuning to get that kind of horsepower... and that's on top of the sticker price! you're looking at 40-50k to get that kind of power (well the Vet is 400 stock)

drop 10k into a 240 and you're set (Engine, Paint, Whells, Suspension, misc crap..)

Florida240sx
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got to love them "whells"...I do love the misc. crap though: camera, q-beam to blind your enemies, CB radio with a PA, glove box full of bouncy balls....

mulletxdriftxx
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the sr wouldnt be in the car till it was done being built to so it wouldn't of bib drivin around by some crazy Japanese kid . ya and the sr comes turbo so the blocks got to be strong

97ka-t
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If you're planning on rebuilding a SR. Why would you not just rebuild a $200 KA24DE instead of a $2500 JDM engine. Put that $2300 towards turbo-ing the KA!

mulletxdriftxx
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tru but than how much is it going to cost to do the rhd? if i get the front clip i get all the **** i need for the rhd and ill get ther sr and wile its out i might as well do the big stuff so i wouldint have to take it out a second time to build the bottom end id i go with a biger turbo plus the sr already is set up for the turbo

97ka-t
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You plan on rebuilding the KA anyways, which would change the compression ratio (assuming you replace the rods and such) to the exact same ratio as that of the SR20- 8:5:1, which would make it "built for a turbo".And the KA has an iron block, unlike the aluminum block of the SR20. RHD is a serious PITA and not worth your time or money. Go buy a mail truck if you really want to drive RHD Seriously, think about it. $2500 SR + $2500 rebuild + $2500 turbo parts and the ungodly prices of having to get JDM parts for your SR and sitting around for 2 weeks waiting for them to get to your house!$200 KA + $2500 rebuild + $4000 turbo parts and the easy availability of any parts that you may need along the road

KA > SR
Modified by 97ka-t at 7:39 PM 9/10/2005

veilside180sx
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Kenrik wrote:I don't see 7k as really all that much money when you look at that price of a Corvette, S2000, 350z, etc... they all would need mods and tuning to get that kind of horsepower... and that's on top of the sticker price! you're looking at 40-50k to get that kind of power (well the Vet is 400 stock)

drop 10k into a 240 and you're set (Engine, Paint, Whells, Suspension, misc crap..)
Well I have over 10k in mine, still haven't gotten paint or a built block in it.

This is my reasoning for building what I am though. New car vs. my built car. I enjoy it more than I would beating on a brand new car. I figure I have Ferrari power at new Civic Si(@$20,000 price).

mulletxdriftxx
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all the parts i have looked at are 4 the sr ive bearly seen anything 4 the ka. couldu jive me some sites . could look at?

97ka-t
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Well, do you mean performance KA parts? If so, check out NICO sponsers, look at all the different turbo kits, and of course search eBay for it, IAP will take care of anything and everything you need for your turbo kit. Go to a local shop for the engine rebuild. All factory KA parts are available through Nissan, or used from anyone/anywhere, including a bunch of NICO members.

mulletxdriftxx
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ya the ka would have the right compression and all but wat about the oil lines

97ka-t
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Haha oil lines.. you can buy 'em anywhere, and they come with any/all turbo kits, as far as I know. Just real quick, here's a set of lines on eBayhttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...wItem

mulletxdriftxx
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ya but taping in to the oil pan and all that seam like ill be a task

and where dose it say that the lines are 4 the ka

Nismo_Freak
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97ka-t wrote:YAnd the KA has an iron block, unlike the aluminum block of the SR20.
...which is lighter and has made the same power as the "mighty" iron block.
97ka-t wrote:$2500 SR + $2500 rebuild + $2500 turbo parts and the ungodly prices of having to get JDM parts for your SR and sitting around for 2 weeks waiting for them to get to your house!$200 KA + $2500 rebuild + $4000 turbo parts and the easy availability of any parts that you may need along the road
$7000+ 97/98 240SX vs. $300 89-90 S13, oooooo see I can do it too!

Money is a cop out, and a lame excuse.

People that actually get anywhere with their cars spend money and buy what they want. Period. Budget warriors 9/10 end up with halfarse results or a car that constantly has issues. In the long run they spend out the same money for a lesser car.

JDM parts for the SR? LOL... yet another magazine warrior who needs to actually put some thought to what they read on the internet, and do their own research. I pay wholesale for OEM SR20DET parts and they are at my door in 2 - 4 days.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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why do you want RHD so much, thats a whole lotta work for just a "oh, whould you look at that" factor.... it seems to me it would be cheeper/easier to move to japan or something

97ka-t
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Nismo_Freak wrote:
...which is lighter and has made the same power as the "mighty" iron block.

$7000+ 97/98 240SX vs. $300 89-90 S13, oooooo see I can do it too!

Money is a cop out, and a lame excuse.

People that actually get anywhere with their cars spend money and buy what they want. Period. Budget warriors 9/10 end up with halfarse results or a car that constantly has issues. In the long run they spend out the same money for a lesser car.

JDM parts for the SR? LOL... yet another magazine warrior who needs to actually put some thought to what they read on the internet, and do their own research. I pay wholesale for OEM SR20DET parts and they are at my door in 2 - 4 days.


Firstly, I never said that SR's weren't able to make as much or more power than KA-Ts. You're saving maybe 100lbs by getting an aluminum block, and iron is stronger than aluminum- that's all I'm saying.Secondly, it seemed as though this particular individual was concerned with prices, as are most people, regardless of the goals for their cars, so I compared prices for him.Thirdly, you may be right about SR parts getting to your house in 2 - 4 days, but not directly from Japan without paying an arm and a leg for EMS. There's a difference between saving money by buying crappy parts or knock-offs and shopping around for good deals and thinking logically about what you want to do for your car. Nothing I said would have been cheaping out, or comprimised the performance or engine life- it's a simple comparison, and in my opinion, the KA comes out on top.

EDIT: " $7000+ 97/98 240SX vs. $300 89-90 S13, oooooo see I can do it too! "What does this have to do with anything? You're talking about essentially asthetics, and I'm talking about performance mods. You are right, you can make a 400hp S13 for thousands less than a Kouki, but you'll have a 16 year old car as compared to a car half that old, in addition to, in my opinion, a much better looking car. If you only want a fast car, get a MKIII Supra or an S13. If you want a nice looking car, get a 3rd gen RX-7 or a MKIV Supra. If you want to comprimise, get a Kouki or MR-2

EDIT, again: "Money is a cop out, and a lame excuse. "

So, it would be a lame excuse to say that one of my rims has 2" of curb rash because I bought them used for $500 less than what they would cost new?Or if my intake pipe has a 3" scratch because I bought it for $75, when it costs $250 new? (Injen w/ CAI extension)Or my RB26 blows up because I bought it used for $3000 instead of buying a Skyline and taking the engine?It's all relative. You get what you pay for. Bottom line. $200 SSAC manifold $500 IAP manifold..Buying a 100,000 mile Kouki as compared to a 50,000 mile Kouki for $5000 less would be a lame excuse I guess too..
Modified by 97ka-t at 3:00 AM 9/11/2005


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