mistamacadamian wrote:the xterra diff bolts up or what kinda fabrication does it need?
You just need the ring and pinion from that diff.
So get one, take the ring and pinions (and shims) from the Xterra diff. Take apart your 240 diff, and install them correctly. Your best bet would be to get new pinion bearings in the process, and to take it to a rear end shop to set it up for you...worth the insurance
Kalypso123 wrote:I was joking, we're all civilized in this thread...or atleast I am
how come no one talks about the
GT2876R .64
Because the 2871 out powers it on the t2 manifolds. Anything larger than a 2871, you goto the 30r family...and run a proper topmount manifold.
idahotuner wrote:the 1st run we did in 4th the rest we did in 3rd. so the bigger numbers are in third gear. i figured out i got some major boost leakage which would be the cause for that. and my cold pipe has a hole woren into it. so i need ot jb wled that and get some rubber hose to go around the hole in the battery tray
Turbo cars should all be run in 4th gear for a proper measurment, and to nuetralize any differences in drivetrains/gearing...however shorter gears (like 4.40/4.60) will typically result in the loss of some (10-15ish) peak whp. I redynoed my car with the gears at 19 psi and made 395 on the lowest correction factor...which thrilled me, as it was at 1 psi less boost, 104 octane (as I was planning on cranking it to 25 psi, but the internal gate didn't let me) and with the gears...which tells me that the car is just is slightly more powerful than before (as one could assume with the old geras, 93 octane, and a point of gas, that it would have made another 10-20 whp.
As far as that cold pipe in the tray, that's a common spot for failure....as Slideways said, the heater hose trick works well, as does getting a simple rubber plumbing connector from home depot, slicing it in half lengthwise, sliping it around the rub area, and then clamping it (works like a rubber shield).