4 codes, need help please!

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nyci30
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Car: 1998 Infiniti I30

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Hey guys, i just used an obd2 and got 4 codes. I know what they are, but where they are, and how to diagnose them correctly is what i need answeres to, and how to fix what the problem is, like if its a loose connection, replace the harness or connector. I would like to know several ways on diagnosing each thing, the specific location to pin point it & what it may look like and what i can do to fix it. Sorry if i come off a little rude, thanks for all the help everyone! If you need any info, please ask.

P.s, anyone viewing, help even a little bit, you dont have to know all of them, atleast 1 would be good.

98 infiniti i30 /98 nissan maxima

Codes:
P1105
P1400
P0110
P0105


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PapaSmurf2k3
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P1105 - MAP sensor it sounds like.
http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/3gq05- ... ering.html
Could be a bad sensor or solenoid, or it could just be a cracked vacuum line.

P1400 sounds like the EGR system. Its probably clogged. Seafoaming it might be able to get it, but you might have to dig deeper and clean it out the old fashioned way.
egr-code-p1400-need-help-t456598.html

P0110 sounds like intake air temp sensor. I'd check the resistance per the FSM. www.nicoclub.com/FSM

P0105 is another MAP sensor malfunction. It goes hand in hand with P1105.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Let us know how you make out!

nyci30
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The egr solenoid has a greenish connector correct? I checked it, and used a redand black wire to give it power for a test. No noise, nothing. Now, that code, ive had for a while now, can that cause the other codes? I was thinking of just relpacing that and seeing if it fixes my other codes. The connector gets 12v, the solenoid its self, is dead. Also, can that be the cause of my rpm issue as said in my other thread i started, which was left un answered? 2100 when started, and 1400 idle in park when warm, and in drive its at 800-850.

I dont want to buy things i dont need, im on a budget, im broke. What do you guya think i should do?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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EGR is just and emissions thing. It shouldn't really cause any high idling, etc. The MAP sensor and air temp sensor can cause those issues though.

NutriaforBreakfast
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I had the same egr issues
you should be able to search for my writeup

nyci30
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I gave the egr vacuum switch direct power with a red abd black lead,no power whats so ever. So now i know i need to replace that.

The MAP vacuum switch, it gets power, maybe its just the map sensor, i didnt test it with a vacuum tester, but the switch its selfm is getting powrr and does work, ill test the sensor its self when i get the money for it.

The IAT, it gets volts, it had continuity, the ohms are reading correctly, im not sure why im getting a code for it. Ill replace that anyways i guess.

So, anyways, thanks for all the help, when i have the money, ill replace the map sensor and the egr vacuum switch. And update you guys if it fixed my problems, hopefully this helps others as well!

nyci30
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Car: 1998 Infiniti I30

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UPDATE

i replaced my map sensor, got one off of ebay,ps64-01 J,the one i had was ps64-01 B. My rpms are still not normal,still have an issuewith that. my egr vacuum solenoid will be here on friday, the IAT i cant afford right now. I still get the code for a bad MAP sensor, no longer the MAP solenoid. what should i do? What do you think my problem is?should i wait tilli replace the EGR and see if it clesrs the codes and fixes my idle issue? Thanks guys!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:EGR is just and emissions thing. It shouldn't really cause any high idling, etc. The MAP sensor and air temp sensor can cause those issues though.

nyci30
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Okay , but... i replaced the map sensor and still get a code for it. What do you think i should do?

The IAT, i cant find or sfford right now. I got 4$, workvonce a week.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I would have gotten the IAT instead of the EGR.
And you should look for a vacuum leak somewhere for MAP code.
Maybe go ahead and seaform the engine to clear any other blockages there might be.

nyci30
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Ill get the IAT asap, hard to find them. And how do you properly seafoam the engine? Without damaging it, stalling or nothing?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/how-to ... t-way.html
I typically don't put any in the oil, just through the engine/combustion itself.

NutriaforBreakfast
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put seafoam in through the brake vacuum hose attached to the manifold or valve cover
i put the seafoam in a spray bottle and sprayed it into the hose to the engine
while the car is running

Purpose is to eliminate carbon buildup in the engine combustion chamber

If you can do this then change the plugs it would be better

Downside of this, i think, is the O2 sensors get more carbon on them and
the cat converter might also-but then Sea foam might clean them up too-not sure

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Yeah it'll clean inside the combustion chamber, but also throughout the intake manifold. Things get coked up in there that really aren't supposed to be coked up. I typically will spray a bunch through the throttle body before the actual seafoaming event too. I go nuts with it.
Any carbon that breaks off from anywhere might temporarily pass by the plugs and O2 sensor/CAT, but they'll be loose chunks at that point and should continue on their path out the tailpipe along with the massive smoke screen from the seafoam.

nyci30
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Ill get 5 cans, and put a whole bottle in evey place i can. I already replaced my spark plugs and 2 faulty coils.

Gas tank
Engine vacuum hose
Oil
Abd anywhere else applicable i guess, ill epmty a whole can in every spot it says i can, get a full on cleanseing :p

P.s, anyone know anywhere to find a cheap IAT sensor? I replaced my egr vacuum solenoid, well not really, its next to my old one, all hooked up, couldnt get the old one off. Replaced my map sensor & my rpms are still high, i didnt replace the IAT sensor cause i cant find one for a cheap price, im gonna get clear my codes in the mornijg snd get them read again and ill update you guys!

Thanks so much for all the help, really.enjoy this site!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I've used GM air temp sensors before and just changed the connector pig tail to save a few bucks, but you'll have to verify that the temp profile is the same (within reason).


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