4:11 gears for the Q where oh where can i get them

[heywier427]

what kind of car do they come in ive read that they really make a difference in the cars launch but dont take away from the top end sounds good to me and it cant hurt to try!!!

[elwesso]

Reading the previuos posts would be a start.....

Heres the short story. Any 6 bolt nissan differnetial will go right in the Q45. Some say there are some skyline differentials that will go right in.....

Or you could swap in a 300XZ N/A differnetial. Youll need the halfshafts, diff and wheel bearings.....

[240SXplan]

elwessoso .. let me understand this... are you saying that.. the halfshafts are not 3 bolts of 2s...for a Q45?

[elwesso]

elwessoso .. let me understand this... are you saying that.. the halfshafts are not 3 bolts of 2s...for a Q45?

No they are 6 evenly spaced, not 3 pairs of 2

[240SXplan]

gee.. great news.. that in mind.. how much you selling those halfshafts for?halfshafts that would bolt up to my 240SX.. 3 bolts of 2s..

[elwesso]

Whos selling the halfshafts??? I *do* have some...

[elwesso]

gee.. great news.. that in mind.. how much you selling those halfshafts for?halfshafts that would bolt up to my 240SX.. 3 bolts of 2s..

I think you may be confused.. the Q is 6 evenly spaced.

[240SXplan]

how much?

[elwesso]

to run the Q halfshafts youll need the Q wheel bearings..

[BlackBirdVQ]

Wes,

Does this mean I don't have to look for a pumkin no more ? I could get the Z32 NA diff for cheap.... Axles and wheel bearings is all I will need ? How bout taking the inner CV joints off the Q axles and putting the Z32 ones on ? Removing the diff wouldn't be of any problem and I could leave the axles and everything still attached to the wheels. Removing the inner joints would be a piece of cake with the diff out... lemme know as I am VERY interested in a 4.11 gear ratio !

[chinaonnitrous]

^^^ what the boss man said. Gearing=poop.

Wes,

Does this mean I don't have to look for a pumkin no more ? I could get the Z32 NA diff for cheap.... Axles and wheel bearings is all I will need ? How bout taking the inner CV joints off the Q axles and putting the Z32 ones on ? Removing the diff wouldn't be of any problem and I could leave the axles and everything still attached to the wheels. Removing the inner joints would be a piece of cake with the diff out... lemme know as I am VERY interested in a 4.11 gear ratio !

[elwesso]

Wes,

Does this mean I don't have to look for a pumkin no more ? I could get the Z32 NA diff for cheap.... Axles and wheel bearings is all I will need ? How bout taking the inner CV joints off the Q axles and putting the Z32 ones on ? Removing the diff wouldn't be of any problem and I could leave the axles and everything still attached to the wheels. Removing the inner joints would be a piece of cake with the diff out... lemme know as I am VERY interested in a 4.11 gear ratio !

NO because id prefer to use hte 6 bolt..... IMO.. IM not really sure on the specifics, but I dont see why it wont work.

[RobertsnewQ]

I think z32 half shafts are going to be 1" too short per side. There's probably enough plunge in the joints for it to work, but the joints will wear faster.

I think the axle splines are different.

That would be key - find a cv joint with Z32 bolt pattern but G50 splines. You could sell as many as you could get your hands on...

[BlackBirdVQ]

What I'm talking bout is - removing the inner plunging joints off the G50 axles, as eassy as removing the boot bands and ripping the boot apart to take the pluning joint off...... And then removing the Z32 inner plunging joint off the Z32 axle and installing it on the G50 halfshafts. I think it should work just fine, and if you have the tools to do- or done this before its a piece of cake !

Wes, I think 5 bolt would hold up to Qs power just fine, I mean there are quite a few 600WHP Z32s out there with their OEM diffs holding up just fine. Will my ABS and TCS would be retained ? I am worried that the G50 diff has inboard wheel speed sensors mounted right on the diff, and the Z32 uses sensors right by the hubs..... Lemme know I will get the ball rollin on making some calls and getting a diff for my Q.

[elwesso]

I think z32 half shafts are going to be 1" too short per side. There's probably enough plunge in the joints for it to work, but the joints will wear faster.

I think the axle splines are different.

That would be key - find a cv joint with Z32 bolt pattern but G50 splines. You could sell as many as you could get your hands on...

They dont exist... Because any higher powered car got the 6 bolt and the bigger wheel bearings...

Mike... That could possibly work.. its worth a shot definitely.... I think theres enough extra room in the Z32 shafts though to just use those..... BUt not having to tear out the wheel bearing sounds nice...

There are 2 sensors on the output flanges for the TCS... you probably wouldnt be able to retain TCS.

[heywier427]

so if i just find a 300zx and get the whole rear end everything i need to do the swap will be there sounds to easy

[elwesso]

so if i just find a 300zx and get the whole rear end everything i need to do the swap will be there sounds to easy

[heywier427]

[Rex]

Just as a voice of reason, this has been discussed before and is not as easy as swapping a rear from another Nissan.

Not trying to be a naysayer, but reading this thread makes it sounds real easy???

[elwesso]

its not swapping the rear end... its swapping the rear diff, halfshafts and axle bearings...

[Rex]

its not swapping the rear end... its swapping the rear diff, halfshafts and axle bearings...

That's my point, it's a complicated process and at least 1 member has had one grenade on him, and it was built by a shop.

A comprehensive/step-by-step write up (w/ pics) would help "illustrate" what it takes to accomplish this mod. I've never done this in a Q45 and don't believe anyone in this thread has as of yet either.

Just reason weighing in .

[elwesso]

if someone wants to buy a differential, halfshafts, and bearings, i will be more than happy to test fit it into my spare Q subframe to make sure it works..

[RobertsnewQ]

I'm with Rex. I spent two hours at an all-nissan junkyard with a tape measure and calipers and I could not come up with an easy way to do this.

I had Z32, Z33, Y32, Y33 (which are all three very, very similar), G50 and S13 subframes all in the same pile and I could not figure out a good way to get the lower ratio into the G50.

My best thought was the following parts (NOT tested):- Y33 inner CV joints- G50 axle NON TCS axle shafts- G50 outer CVs- Z32 NA diff - G50 input flange

I THINK that will work, but I couldn't pull the boots on the inner CVs and check that the splines are the same. That's the big Q. Dunno if Wes' idea will work. I think the Z32 axles are too short. The Y32/Y33 axles are probably too short too. If the above combo doesn't work, and the Y33 inner CV splines are NOT the same as G50, the only remaining option would be to have someone temper the axles, grind them down (or weld them up), roll different splines on them and re heat-treat them. Not cheap. Z33 inner CVs are the same as G50, which is cool, but they only have really crappy ratios from our perspective.

What happened to the guy who was going to try a Pathfinder IRS diff?

[elwesso]

I think theres enough extra room that it can be done... I think you could move each side 1/2in in/out of the spindle without ruining anything...

IMO (and in others that ive talked to) a billet torque converter will help more than the 4.08.. Albeit more expensive..

[heywier427]

wes or rex there is another infiniti site that is sponsored by nico i cant find it again but it had a 9093 q with the 4:11 gear setup any idea of the site ill keep looking but i remember seeing wes s name on there?

[rsiwicki]

It is amazing how much this subject comes up every 3 months. The 4.08 has its negatives and positives. Here they are from somebody with way too much 4.08 experience….

Positives1. Improved acceleration from 0-78mph. The acceleration is improved, but it still ain't a rocket ship as other would have you believe.2. One might say It sounds cool to say "I have a 4.08."3. Also one might say it looks & sound cool to peel out a little harder from a stop light.4. New tighther rearend with better LSD possible if your current rearend is shot5. You can fool your friends into thinking your car is a lot faster than it actually is because the speedo will be 15% higher. So when it says 115mph you are really only going 100mph, but to a stranger in the Q they would never know the difference.

Negatives1. Costs, it will cost at least $1,200 through all known reliable methods to get a 4.08.2. Gas mileage sucks. Mine went from about 17~18mpg to 12~13mpg under a mix of freeway & city driving, but I do abuse the hell out of the accelerator pedal.3. Speedo will read 15% higher4. Reduced rate of acceleration from 78~90mph. Car is not as fast because you are now in 3rd gear 1:1 vs. 2nd gear of 1.58:1 therefore your torque multiplication will be significantly less ( 1.58*3.54=5.59 stock vs. 1.00*4.08=4.08 modified). Trust me…you will notice the difference on the freeway from 78~90mph and at 78~90mph is one of the stock Q's sweet spots in performance against racing other cars. The car will be faster from 0-125mph as now 4th gear shift is at 125mph versus 135mph stock so if you race to 125mph it will benefit you.5. Your 1/4 mile times will be exactly the same (within 0.1 secs) with the 4.08 compared to stock because of the extra shift induced by the 4.08 at 78mph. This will also lower your trap speed by about 3~4mph because of the point mentioned in #4 above. I did 1/4 testing back to back and this confirms Q45techs response that the 4.08 will not help in 1/4 ET's.

Now having said all of this and knowing what it does and does not do for preformance, would I do it all over again? Yes, but I am a mad man :-) I think there are many other items one should consider when spending around $1,000 to get better acceleration numbers such as a $1,500 carbon fiber driveshaft which is doable if your current driveshaft needs replacement then you are looking at a net $1,000 in costs. The unsprung weight does make a difference in acceleration.

Also contact Redmanfx here on NICO. He had a resource of a guy who built custom Q45 4.08's in Texas for around $700? But I do not know if the work was warrantied which gets very expensive shipping a rearend across the country round trip which is about $100 each way. There is nothing worse to have your rearend whinning down the highway sounding like a 747 jet liner taking off or having it explode from under you for which I had the luck to experience both. I had my 4.08 custom built for around $1,200 and bought all brand new parts from Joe at a cost of $700, then another $300 for the core, then $200 install. It ain't cheap and I wish there was a more economical way to get this done. The only way I can think of using the 300ZX 4.08 is to have custom half shafts made.

[RobertsnewQ]

rs- I'm confused by the fact you were able to buy new gears from Joe. What application are they originally for? It was my understanding that the Q pumpkin would not take the standard 4.08 gears because of the offset of the diff housing.

[maxnix]

Just as a voice of reason, this has been discussed before and is not as easy as swapping a rear from another Nissan.

Yep, there is a very defining thread in Infiniti Mechanic forum.

Isn't "Online" redundant when it is only accessible via the internet?

Remember Stillen had the pinion and ring gear for the 4.08 ratio.

[rsiwicki]

The 4.083 ring & pinion gear will fit in the housing, but you need to do two major things:1. Make a custom carrier/spacer bracket to all the 4.08 to fit in properly (have no idea on exactly what this part is)2. Make custom longer ring carrier bolts (that is what busted loose and ripped throught my differential housing as seen in the pic). The first attempt was without the longer bolts and so after 300 miles they worked loose and resulted in an disaster.

Joe has a listing of all the parts that the driveline shop ordered for the 4.08 costing about $750. I have 99% all new internals. I gave the driveline shop my credit card number and told them to order what ever they needed. They ordered all the parts from a NA 300ZX 4.083 rearend. The labor cost was $250 to put it together which I found to be really cheap. They would only put in all new parts and said that they would not do any work unless it was new parts because of the problems using older parts with new parts not wearing properly. All I know is that after about 5,000 miles driving very hard that it works perfectly with no whinning or anything.

[RobertsnewQ]

OK - that's what I figured. The diff housing flange is too far to the left for the ring & pinion to mesh properly, so they machined a special spacer, right? Did the driveline shop make the spacer or did someone else?