300ZXttZMAN build thread.. Its time to go broke or GO HOME!

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300ZXttZMAN
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Sure is. My Z has got me beat by 2 years.


z32loverboy
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300ZXttZMAN wrote:Sure is. My Z has got me beat by 2 years.
I feel you on that. Mines about 2 and 1/2 years older then me.

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alms24sebring
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Holy crap I feel old now. I was 3 when your car was built so I guess its not that bad.

Happy Belated Bday!

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300ZXttZMAN
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Good news and bad news here is the update with pics :D

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The good news is that we got that manifold on and did a bunch of "behind the scenes things".

The bad news is that the reason why we only got that manifold on is because I can't find 2 of the short oil filter housing bolts so I need some if anyone has some please let me know because this is why we didn't put the turbo on.. (cause if I put the turbo on I won't be able to torque the bolts)

More bad news, I couldn't get the dipstick tube out of my old block so a quick search revealed this: evil-nsr-anybody-need-help-removing-oil ... 25410.html

So I really wish I would have known this before hand I would have already had it ready.. (since I didn't have the tube I couldn't put the manifold on the driverside.)

Now I have to wait until that tube comes in before I bolt anything else up.

If anyone has a pair of the short bolts for the filter tree pm me...

-Zman

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300ZXttZMAN
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I tried to get the best shot I could to show yall how smooth the transition from the head to to the manifold... Also the manfiolds look rusty in the pictures for some reason. But I assure you they are not.

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TTkickedin
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This thread really took off since I haven't been posting too often Happy belated birfday, bro.

P.s. I am exactly as old as my z :p I think it was even manufactured in August too. If it wasn't, it now holds that title. Thank you very much :D

Oh, btw those manifolds TOTALLY suck dude..you should just give 'em to me, i'll even pay shipping to take 'em off your hands!!

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300ZXttZMAN
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TTkickedin wrote:This thread really took off since I haven't been posting too often Happy belated birfday, bro.

P.s. I am exactly as old as my z :p I think it was even manufactured in August too. If it wasn't, it now holds that title. Thank you very much :D
Ha she is coming along... Did you ever find out if your car was a swap or TT out of the box???
TTkickedin wrote:Oh, btw those manifolds TOTALLY suck dude..you should just give 'em to me, i'll even pay shipping to take 'em off your hands!!
:nono: :chuckle:

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TTkickedin
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TT out of the BOX!!! so happy to find that out :D

Radiator Core Support Badge as follows:
CZ32
JN1CZ24H6WX504812 (I think that's right)
KRLZ32X5VDGTY
732 G
VG30(dett) 2960
RS5R20A RD37
x

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300ZXttZMAN
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:bigthumb:

z32loverboy
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that is one beautiful engine. i am a fan.

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DCaff300ZX
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Indeed it is, although I am wondering if you're going to clean up the RTV?
BTW, a little-known factoid here...isopropyl alcohol cuts/cleans silicone with NO residue; when it's not completely dry you can tool off your excess sealant with a finger or rag, then wipe with alcohol for a clean finish... :bigthumb:

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300ZXttZMAN
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DCaff300ZX wrote:Indeed it is, although I am wondering if you're going to clean up the RTV?
BTW, a little-known factoid here...isopropyl alcohol cuts/cleans silicone with NO residue; when it's not completely dry you can tool off your excess sealant with a finger or rag, then wipe with alcohol for a clean finish... :bigthumb:
Can that alcohol sneak under the oil pan and possibly compromise the gasket???

I am a perfectionist but if it can possibly even remotely compromise the gasket then I am not taking a chance.

Being that you cant see the oil pan gasket on a fully assembled VG30DETT in the car I don't know if its a risk I want to take..

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300ZXttZMAN
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z32loverboy wrote:that is one beautiful engine. i am a fan.
:bigthumb:

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TTkickedin
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I would've opted for black silicone instead of that obnoxious orange for that reason...But I assume it would be an easier way to tell where a mysterious leak is to have the contrast in that case.

Just keep it. It's gonna make enough power that people won't bother looking at a messy seal. As long as it's properly sealed, who cares!

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300ZXttZMAN
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The orange is Nissan gasket maker... Nothing better than it... Plus I didn't pay for it my buddy bought it when ever we rebuilt his Sr20 for his S14.

Also even if people wanted to look at the seal its impossible to see it once everything is assembled. :biggrin:

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alms24sebring
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updates?

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300ZXttZMAN
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Yes sir!

I'll post them monday morning we are working on her right now...

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300ZXttZMAN
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Ok the much needed update... I have questions and such at the bottom after the pictures.


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Help
Notice the intake valve covers how they are lifted up a little bit is that normal? Is the cover supposed to smash the rubber gasket all the way around because it didn't and it makes me nervous for obvious reasons. Lets say it was possible to over tighten the philips head intake valve cover screws would that cause any damage to the seal between the cover and head???


Now the good.
My dad and I installed the new dipstick tube. Then we installed the manifold. Remember a while back when I said I was doing alot of behind the scenes things well that is just about done only thing i need to do is clean up the alternator compressor ect... And finish up grinding the plenum out for the throttle bodies.

The only reason why I didn't put the turbos on saturday night is becasue we were taking the old motor apart getting getting the old LH turbo off so that I can get the coolant lines off of it (the other turbo is already off just need to get the lines).

Parts pictured
OEM oil pressure sensor notice that hamburger emblem :D
Silicone vac hoses
Silicone PCV hoses
Silicone Idle air hoses
Koyo Radiator brackets
NGK #7 plugs (recommended by Greg)

Parts not pictured
New oem fuel pressure reg.
New oem booster hose
2 New oem PCV valves

Parts & services I still need
  • 1. Powder coater to powder coat the plenum, coil pack brackets, balance tube, G35 wheels I decided to not keep them painted because I am going to be highly upset when they chip haha. So I am either having the G wheels coated pearl white or Gun metal. I am open to ideas.
    2. I am thinking about buying a new trans-alt-battery harness
    3. Ashspec planar intake pipe kit
    4. Chrome water pipes... I might have to just get some powder coated ones though...
    5. Need to get my chip soldered into my ecu.
Thats all I can think of now.

Questions/Comments are welcome. :bigthumb:

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BigTDogg (MA)
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Busy at work, will reply tonight. Looks great though!

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300ZXttZMAN
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BigTDogg (MA) wrote:Busy at work, will reply tonight. Looks great though!
Sounds good T thanks.

I am looking forward to your reply.

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TTkickedin
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300ZXttZMAN wrote:Ok the much needed update... I have questions and such at the bottom after the pictures.


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Hey man I'm loving the updates!!!

By the way, did anybody ever know that these turbochargers ^ are the same turbochargers from a 2005+ European Chrysler Grand Voyager CRD (turbo diesel) ?

Just found this out now! :D AFAIK, this is true. "Nissan" 4 bolt housing and all. It might be that the Chrysler uses the A/R 48, and these are A/R60's..

Just thought i'd share.

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alms24sebring
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^ fun fact of the day

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BigTDogg (MA)
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300ZXttZMAN wrote:Ok the much needed update... I have questions and such at the bottom after the pictures.


Image

Help
Notice the intake valve covers how they are lifted up a little bit is that normal? Is the cover supposed to smash the rubber gasket all the way around because it didn't and it makes me nervous for obvious reasons. Lets say it was possible to over tighten the philips head intake valve cover screws would that cause any damage to the seal between the cover and head???
I don't recall the gap on my valve covers, if there was one and how large it was if there was. But if it's seated correctly in the covers, and you tightened the screws to spec and use the grommets, you're fine. The grommets have a hard stop in them so you'd strip out before over-tightening.
300ZXttZMAN wrote: Parts & services I still need
  • 1. Powder coater to powder coat the plenum, coil pack brackets, balance tube, G35 wheels I decided to not keep them painted because I am going to be highly upset when they chip haha. So I am either having the G wheels coated pearl white or Gun metal. I am open to ideas.
    2. I am thinking about buying a new trans-alt-battery harness
    3. Ashspec planar intake pipe kit
    4. Chrome water pipes... I might have to just get some powder coated ones though...
    5. Need to get my chip soldered into my ecu.
1) http://www.Dipyourcar.com Check it out. Plastidipping wheels is great, because you can change colors easily, and the stuff is super durable. Could do white with the gold metalisizer.
Thats all I can think of now.

2) Good idea

3) another good idea

4) Meh, PC them to match your plenum, IMHO.

5) NO!! You need to get your ECU socketed, then the chip gets placed into the sockets. Do not solder it into the ECU directly.


Questions/Comments are welcome. :bigthumb:[/quote]

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300ZXttZMAN
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Ok good deal I am going to do some more digging to see if I can find my answer to see if the cover is supposed to be spaced up.. I put gasket maker just like this link says: http://diy.icydesigns.com/article/183/N ... _Assembly/

I even put gasket maker on each of the ends of the covers (VTC plugs/opposite end) under the rubber seal and above the rubber seal to get a great seal because I know that the valve covers are prone to leaking.

Good to know that the screws would strip out before they get over tightened. I was scared that maybe I would squish the rubber gasket and fracture it.

Good idea on powder coating the water pipes it will be much cheaper only problem is I may powder coat them the same color as the balance tube..

Here is my layout on the color(s) of each item.
  • 1. Car is pearl white
    2. Engine bay is white gold metallic
    3. Plenum will be PC a gloss black with gold viens kinda hard to describe but its awesome.
    4. Balance tube will be pearl white
    5. cas bracket/Cas (not sure)
    6. Throttle body linkage will be PC pearl white matching the balance tube
    7. plastic upper timing covers (not sure)
    8. lower metal timing cover is wrinkle black
    9. Throttle bodies are chrome
    10. Coil pack brackets might be pearl white (still unsure)
    11. Underside of the hood will be pearl white matching the car
    12. The ashspec IC piping is PC silver metallic with black couplers
    13. The ashspec IC planar piping is PC silver metallic with black couplers
    14. Water pipes unknown (IDK if I want them to be black matching the plenum or what help guys!)
    15. Thottle cable cover will be custom (unsure on color scheme)
    16. G wheels I like T's idea I am going to look into it throughout the day
I am open to all suggestions! If something is bold then that means its already done and there is no going back haha.

Please help.

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BigTDogg (MA)
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I didn't say you couldn't over torque them, but you couldn't overtighten them to the point you'd strip out the head.

That guy used too much sealant on the water pipes, and I've never used sealant on the intake cover gasket. Just a dab wouldn't make a difference.

Not a fan of 2 colors on a plenum, just IMHO.

If you haven't seen my links about smoothing the timing covers, let me know, I'll post it here

On your lower timing cover, place some white or silver touch up paint in the numbers and timing marks, then wipe the excess clean before it dries. This will help huge with setting timing.

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300ZXttZMAN
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BigTDogg (MA) wrote:I didn't say you couldn't over torque them, but you couldn't overtighten them to the point you'd strip out the head.
s*** so do you think I could have damaged the seal?
BigTDogg (MA) wrote: That guy used too much sealant on the water pipes, and I've never used sealant on the intake cover gasket. Just a dab wouldn't make a difference.
Do you think I should take the covers back off? What do you suggest?
BigTDogg (MA) wrote: Not a fan of 2 colors on a plenum, just IMHO.
Ok this is why I want feed back because I am trying to visualize how it will look. What do you think about a chrome balance tube ontop of the black plenum with gold viens?? Think it would look good?
BigTDogg (MA) wrote: If you haven't seen my links about smoothing the timing covers, let me know, I'll post it here
Please post them. I need to do that. I am going to put the PTU under the nose panel.

________
Thanks T.

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300ZXttZMAN
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Update!

Just ordered the Ashspec planar kit and some new turbo hardware!

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TTkickedin
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Those should be pretty sexy :D

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300ZXttZMAN
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TTkickedin wrote:Those should be pretty sexy :D
:yesnod I can't wait I'll post pics when they get here.

______________
Also while I was on the phone with SZ the I asked about my little intake valve cover issue. He said there is nothing to worry about because the gasket will just squish down and still seal. He said it would be impossible for it to get ruined because its such a perfect fit and a high quality gasket.

So thats a huge weight lifted off my shoulders. :bigthumb:

RubyRed300ZX
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Help
Notice the intake valve covers how they are lifted up a little bit is that normal? Is the cover supposed to smash the rubber gasket all the way around because it didn't and it makes me nervous for obvious reasons. Lets say it was possible to over tighten the philips head intake valve cover screws would that cause any damage to the seal between the cover and head???
I also can't remember if there was a gap. And, I just looked; but with the engine assembled, no way to see in there now. Specifications call for 0.7 to 2.2 ft-lbs. on the screws. I replaced the rubber grommets when i did mine. The original ones were severely deformed and cracked and dried. Everybody wants a fortune for them. I even had a Nissan dealer quote me a price of $8.25 each! They have a metal sleeve molded inside them. Problem is, for me anyway, that I know they cost around $0.11 to $0.15 each to manufacture depending upon the type of metal for the insert. That cost would be to even individually package the damn things. I bought some gasket kit for about $50 on Ebay which included the grommets. Used a few of the less important gaskets and o-rings, and the grommets, then threw the rest away. I would think as long as you evenly torque them, and started in the middle, alternating side to side and top to bottom, all should be good (so as not to warp the valve cover). By over tightening the screws, I would think it would strip the screw head before it would damage the aluminum head.

Even tried to use a mirror to look down in there on mine, to see if there was a gap. No luck. Probably my bad eyesight as much as it being buried in there.


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