Post by
evildky »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/evildky-u13100.html
Thu Dec 06, 2012 10:32 am
I'm going to move the to the propper section but first I'll try and offer a bit of help. Congrats ont he Z unfortunately this particular model tends to very expensive to maintain service and modify, mosty due to the packaging. When buying one it pays dividends to buy the cleanest most stock car you can find and I recomend against buying one thats been swapped, andymore it's cheaper to buy a TT than to convert an n/a especially if you are paying labor, that being said lets see what we can do to help.
when the car dies, I assume this is when decelerating? if so it's typically the aicv, it's on the back of the plenum and likely needs to be removed and cleaned and put back, they get dirty and sticky and no longer move quickly enough to stop the car form stalling when decelerating.
your rough idle could be a number of things, first and formost make sure that the car is in fact idling on all 6 cylinders, it's amazing how well they can run or 3 or 4 cylinders. with the car idling, unplug each cop one at a time and see if it effects the idle, if you unplug one and the idle does nto change that cylinder isn't working. There are still a number of reason's why but step one is locating the effected cylinder(s). Something as simple as a bad cop connector or a bad fuel injector clips can cause these problems, could also be a bad spark plug, bad cop, bad ptu, or even a cracked valve seat.
Feuel pums tend to get noisy before they fail, low fuel levels make them louder as does missing interior panels and insulation.
When removing the fuel pump, sometimes those little screws can be buggers, I've had good luck using a small pair of vice grips, not easy to do but the results tend to be worth while.
The lights dim before the car does becaust the alternator slows down and the voltage drops, it doesn't really indicate anything.