300zx passenger turbo removal *WRITE UP*

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kaedachef
Posts: 84
Joined: Mon Mar 17, 2008 3:23 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX N/A

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I have noticed there are no write-ups for removing the passenger turbo while the motor is still in so I figured I would throw it on here.

This is for whoever cannot get there hands on an engine hoist and have to do this job with the motors in. I would recommend using a hoist as this is a long job and a real pain in the @$$.

Tools Needed

Sockets and open-end wrenches 10mm-19mm 1/4 drive and 3/8 drive universals, extensions, pipe for breaker bar, PB Blaster or WD-40, and needle nose pliers for removing clamps on hoses. Ramps or jack stands. I used ramps since i did not have stands but it worked out the same. And zip loc bags tape and a marker to store and label what bolts and nuts are what so you do not lose any or end up with mixed up bolts. And a helper with small hands.

1. Remove all intake and intercooler piping that you can get to as well as intake tube with maf and filter.
You will be taking off all of the piping except for hard pipes on the turbo.(I will get to that later)

2. Remove Battery and wiper motor
Just swing the wiper motor out of your way and place the battery on some 2x4s or wood.

3. Unbolt down pipe from exhaust
Mine had a ton of gasket maker on it and was stuck, but broke loose when I got the manifold off. While you are down there there should be a bracket to the right of the downpipe with 3 10mm bolts remove this as well. Unplug the oil pressure sensor and remove your oil filter and coolant lines going to the turbo. Let them fully drain out while you are doing the next steps.

4. Remove all hoses for turbo coolant lines on top of turbo, oil lines, and unplug oxygen sensor.
Make sure to label all plugs incase you are not sure where they go as they can get a little confusing. You should also be able to get to the oil return pipe so take that off as well.


Now comes the fun part

5. Remove the front hardpipe on turbo
The 2 bolts on the front are easy and you should be able to get to one from the bottom in the back, but there is one on top that was a b**ch to get to. I had my helper get it off. you will need to put the socket on first then fish with a universal on a long extension. Once it is on there use a breaker bar since you will literally have no room to get and torque on the wrench. Make sure you do this during the day hours as I was screaming and cursing late at night and got the cops called on me lol.

6. Remove the heat shield from the exhaust manifold
The easy bolts will come right off, but would suggest using a lubricant just in case so no bolts snap. The bolt on the bottom is another pain in the @$$ and you have no room to work, You best bet will to be to stand in front of the car and use the closed end of the 10mm wrench and get it on there. You will be making very tiny turns and will take you awhile to get this off. I eventually got fed up and just used my fingers, luckily I had cracked it loose already.

7. Remove turbo compresser outlet elbow
You will have to remove the turbo compressor outlet elbow to get the heat shield out, but wait until all of the bolts are out of the heat shield since you will need to hold the heat shield all the way up with your knuckle while using your finger and and flat head screwdriver to turn the nut.

8. Remove down pipe from turbo
This is actually easy just take the nuts off and it will disengage when you get the manifold off.(somepeople say to remove the turbo as a manifold/turbo/downpipe combo but I found it easier this way.)

9. Remove Exhaust manifold
This gave me the most trouble. Take off all of the easy bolts then you will get to the 2 behind the turbo. This drove me nuts and it the mix of losing my mind I used a dremel and cut the damper line to my clutch thinking it was for the A/C. Luckily they recommend getting rid of the line anyway and using a block of screw, so i dont feel as stupid. This actually helped to get the ratchet in the spot it needed to be, but not necessary. Take your 14mm 1/4 drive short socket and kind of twist your arm with the socket between your fingers and place it on the left nut. Then take your 1/4 drive universal on a 1 1/2 inch extension and guide the universal into the socket with your right index finger, now attach your ratchet with a breaker bar(I used a pipe) and it will come off. Now for the right nut you need to do the same thing. With the socket in your left hand place it between your index and middle finger and use your right hand to come from behind the manifold and guide it onto the nut. Now with the universal and extension guide the universal into the socket and attach your ratchet and breaker bar and that one will come off. Now you have done the impossible. I would take a break maybe have a cigarette or a beer since you're nerves are probably shot at the moment.

Remove down pipe and oil filter tree
I was not able to drop the exhaust so I basically pulled the exhaust down as hard as I could and flipped the downpipe out. Once you get the manifold separated form the block you will need to move it around so you can get to the oil filter tree bolts. Once it is out the manifold and turbo will drop right out. :woot: (i have not been this happy in awhile lmao) Now it is just reverse steps to put everything back together. I would recommend cleaning out all pipes and intercooler if your turbo was leaking oil. I might of forgot a few miscellaneous things like a bracket or guard but that stuff will be common sense when you are taking everything off. Hope this helps anyone who was in the same situation as me, but when I do manifolds and turbos I will definitely be getting an engine hoist lol.

This removal took me about 20 hours but that includes spending 6 hours trying to figure out how to get the manifold off and 3 hours trying to get the lower heat shield bolt off. With this write-up it shouldn't take you more than 6 hours. If anyone is going to do this and you get stuck jus PM me and I will be more than happy to help you.


alright2020
Posts: 605
Joined: Mon Oct 27, 2008 2:11 pm
Car: 92 jeep wrangler with SBC
99 F250 with 7.3 on 25lbs
91 300ZX na>tt>na
03 G35 coupe

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kudos. for doing this. not an easy task by any means.

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NolimitZ32
Posts: 7042
Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 9:07 am
Car: 91 AG2 2+0 TTMT swap/E39 BMW 540i6/E53 4.6is Dinan S3
Location: Houston, TX

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:iws: for sure dude, good job on the writeup, if you could add more details it would be even better, just if you think of something down the road thats not there, add it (lots of intricacies with these engines)

kaedachef
Posts: 84
Joined: Mon Mar 17, 2008 3:23 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX N/A

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Thanks. And definitely. Ill be puttin her back together this week. Just waiting on the parts. So as im doing it ill remember the rest lol

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Ace2cool
Posts: 11650
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600
1974 Honda CB550 Four
2009 Ford F150 Lariat
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

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Articles are great with pics as well. :)

kaedachef
Posts: 84
Joined: Mon Mar 17, 2008 3:23 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX N/A

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Ace2cool wrote:Articles are great with pics as well. :)
I know, unfortunately I did not think aboit doing a write up when I was taking it apart

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Ace2cool
Posts: 11650
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600
1974 Honda CB550 Four
2009 Ford F150 Lariat
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

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Haha, all good. Snap some pictures while it's going back together. No one will know the difference, haha.

kaedachef
Posts: 84
Joined: Mon Mar 17, 2008 3:23 pm
Car: 1990 Nissan 300ZX N/A

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Hahaha i got ya


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