300zx hesitation (new to forums)

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
NWz32
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2016 4:52 pm
Car: 1993 300zx z32 NA in Black Onyx

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Hey guys,
I just purchased a 300zx NA (1993, manual, 176,xxx on the clock). Had it for about a month and it started having an issue. I was just driving the car in third gear (about 38 mph) and then the car felt like it lost all power but it didnt die. It has done it about five times so far. I will be in gear and it feels like it wants to die (bucks then gets back on the power). The other night it did it again so I put in neutral and coasted into a parking lot, then after i got back in first it ran great! the rest of the night in fact. so I'm confused, it is not consistent. Been doing my research and people have similar issues but its not quite the same. My car idles great about 900-1000 rpm (not to high or low), it has not died on me or left me stranded (starts up great every time). I'm new to these cars and I apologize for starting a new topic but was just hoping for some help. Thanks everybody! :)


nissanfreak12
Posts: 1709
Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:07 pm
Car: 92 300zx 2+2 TT
Location: Denver, CO

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Check the connectors for green corrosion. Basically unhook connectors to like the injectors, coil packs, coolant temp sensor, etc. Look on the blades or the female connectors, make sure it has a clean connection. Most of the time there will be a green corrosion. Easy to clean, gt some electrical cleaner from the auto parts store and small screw driver and scrape off.

nissanfreak12
Posts: 1709
Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:07 pm
Car: 92 300zx 2+2 TT
Location: Denver, CO

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And honestly, 900-1000 is too high for an idle. Should be 750ish, you may also have a vacuum leak. Do you have any mods?

NWz32
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2016 4:52 pm
Car: 1993 300zx z32 NA in Black Onyx

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thanks for the info! I will check that tomorrow after I get home (the car is my second car so I only drive it on the weekends mainly) yes and your right 900-1000 is a little high, and that estimate was on a cold start (my bad) today when I took it out when it warmed up it did idle at 750-800. The car has no mods. I appreciate the reply!

Sgt
Posts: 1227
Joined: Tue May 13, 2008 5:13 pm
Car: 1991 Fairlady Z (JDM) Twin Turbo

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nissanfreak12 wrote:Check the connectors for green corrosion. Basically unhook connectors to like the injectors, coil packs, coolant temp sensor, etc. Look on the blades or the female connectors, make sure it has a clean connection. Most of the time there will be a green corrosion. Easy to clean, gt some electrical cleaner from the auto parts store and small screw driver and scrape off.
After cleaning, apply a small dab of di-electric grease to keep them clean.

I would leave the injector connectors alone for now. Just because you might make a bigger headache for yourself if that isn't the issue.

My guess on the issue is a bad/dirty/loose coilpack connector. The plugs are know to break when they age and no longer properly click and lock on.

nissanfreak12
Posts: 1709
Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:07 pm
Car: 92 300zx 2+2 TT
Location: Denver, CO

Post

Sgt wrote:After cleaning, apply a small dab of di-electric grease to keep them clean.

I would leave the injector connectors alone for now. Just because you might make a bigger headache for yourself if that isn't the issue.

My guess on the issue is a bad/dirty/loose coilpack connector. The plugs are know to break when they age and no longer properly click and lock on.

The di-electric grease is mainly for the seal, not the actual electrical connectors, that could cause connection issue.

I would have to disagree on not cleaning the injector connectors, these are more prone to corrosion because they have a constant 12v going to then even though the car is off. This is what causes the corrosion. Cleaning this will help, even though it may not be the problem. Just be very careful the connectors are more than likely brittle and will break very easily.

captainbah
Posts: 5
Joined: Fri Aug 07, 2015 8:19 pm
Car: 1990 300zx 2+2 White

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I had an issue that sounds the same with my 1990 N/A with about 160,000 miles...driving along and there is a sudden loss of power, the car does not die, but just kind of keeps putting along and then maybe 20 seconds later it starts running normally. I had my ECU rebuilt. Apparently the resistors/capacitors typically last about 15 years and then start to degrade.
I found a guy on facebook ( https://www.facebook.com/LScowboyLS ). I shipped the guy the ECU and he returned it in about a week. I looked at the boards in the ECU and can barely tell he had worked on it...seems pretty professional. Costs about $175..but as you probably know, nothing is cheap for 300zx. I have only been driving on it about 2 months, but the intermittent power loss appears to be gone. Hope this helps you.

I also agree with nissanfreak12...I have found a lot of connectors with green corrosion and think it s good idea to clean 'em up and put on dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.

Sgt
Posts: 1227
Joined: Tue May 13, 2008 5:13 pm
Car: 1991 Fairlady Z (JDM) Twin Turbo

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nissanfreak12 wrote: The di-electric grease is mainly for the seal, not the actual electrical connectors, that could cause connection issue.
Nissanfreak12 is right, forget what I said about dielectric grease. My bad


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