Can anyone ["george" or "SpeedRacer" i think know... after doing lots of searching.... maybe incorrectly but] tell me how to install a 300zx fuel pump in a SR powered s13 chassis. googled up one post on some other forum, but the pics were gone.
even just simple descriptions should be enough. have been stumped for months on why my car had lost power... now the fuel pump [walbro] wont work and i have looked at a lot of other things.
need to fix ASAP!
300zx fuel pump into s13 sr20det
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Hijacker
- Posts: 14373
- Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
- Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150 - Location: Fredericksburg, VA
First thing's first. Why isn't your walbro working? Has it been working for a while and just now crapped out? Are you sure this isn't a bad relay or bad fuse? Have you ruled ECU out?
On the 300ZX fuel pump, there should be an Orange wire and a white wire coming off of the 6 pin plug (chassis harness side, not the wires going through the sending unit cap)
If you don't have the chassis harness portion, the wires shoudl be in the 4 and 6 pin positions if the plug looks like
top123456
The white wire leads back to a control unit that varies the speed. Basically, the control unit is a variable resistor on the ground circuit for the pump.
On the 300ZX fuel pump, there should be an Orange wire and a white wire coming off of the 6 pin plug (chassis harness side, not the wires going through the sending unit cap)
If you don't have the chassis harness portion, the wires shoudl be in the 4 and 6 pin positions if the plug looks like
top123456
The white wire leads back to a control unit that varies the speed. Basically, the control unit is a variable resistor on the ground circuit for the pump.
Re: (Hijacker)
fuse is ok lol
have not checked the relay.. im at work
everything else ecu seems to be fine and it was running intermittently bad above 10psi... that can be a lot of probs.
i will replace the relay tonight if i can get one at the parts store .
voltage was ok when i checked it bout a month ago after probs started.
also... you know that 1 second pump runtime upon turning key to run... well sometimes when it is hot, my starter wont kick until the fuel pump "test time [or whatever]" is done. That I guess could be the starter or a bad relay, not sure.
have not checked the relay.. im at work
everything else ecu seems to be fine and it was running intermittently bad above 10psi... that can be a lot of probs.
i will replace the relay tonight if i can get one at the parts store .
voltage was ok when i checked it bout a month ago after probs started.
also... you know that 1 second pump runtime upon turning key to run... well sometimes when it is hot, my starter wont kick until the fuel pump "test time [or whatever]" is done. That I guess could be the starter or a bad relay, not sure.
Re: (Hijacker)
thanks for the wiring info
... now i need info on physical mod needed, there has been mention of that.
... now i need info on physical mod needed, there has been mention of that.
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Hijacker
- Posts: 14373
- Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
- Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150 - Location: Fredericksburg, VA
If you're having an intermittent issue, then your relay isn't the problem. I'd be tempted to say it's an issue with either the pump or the fuel pressure regulator. II suggest the FPR because they seem to give more issues than fuel pumps. But I've had experiences in the past where pumps were too tired to keep up with the demand of the motor.
I'm not sure what's up with the starter since the starter gets its signal from the key switch. I'd be tempted to say it's the battery. It can't carry prime the pump and turn over the starter at the same time. But that's only a guess.
As for the physical portion of the job, do a search in 240 Tech. A writeup was done not too terribly long ago concerning swapping the pump
I'm not sure what's up with the starter since the starter gets its signal from the key switch. I'd be tempted to say it's the battery. It can't carry prime the pump and turn over the starter at the same time. But that's only a guess.
As for the physical portion of the job, do a search in 240 Tech. A writeup was done not too terribly long ago concerning swapping the pump
Re: (Hijacker)
thanks... i might have a prob w my batt ground [bolt to frame above muffler through the bottom of the trunk].
fpr holds steady 37 idle and seems to climb if i blip the throttle from under the hood, cant read it while driving [damn shoulda got that cool 80's digi gage].
i will change the relay tonight for s&g and check the V again at the harness to make sure it is getting power.
as for the writeup on the 300zx FP, haven't found it yet so if you know where it iz lemme know, i will keep serchin though.
you dont think the relay could act up if it got hot and it was defective somehow...
fpr holds steady 37 idle and seems to climb if i blip the throttle from under the hood, cant read it while driving [damn shoulda got that cool 80's digi gage].
i will change the relay tonight for s&g and check the V again at the harness to make sure it is getting power.
as for the writeup on the 300zx FP, haven't found it yet so if you know where it iz lemme know, i will keep serchin though.
you dont think the relay could act up if it got hot and it was defective somehow...