300zx ebrake question

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nissans13240sx
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I have been looking in the 300zx sticky and havent really come across a definate answer so... How exactly do i get my ebrake to work with the 300zx rear calipers? im guessing i need the drum setup??? how does it mount up though?


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coupe240sxguy
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Why down grade from discs to drums... stupid and a waste of time if you ask meHere is an idea! Lets spend some money and downgrade to crap.

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eazye2000
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I'll bump this because I'm in the same boat as you.

I have front and rear 300zx calipers, but I need to know what all i need to get the e-brake working. And to convert over to 5-lug while I'm at it.

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hybrid_flyer
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coupe240sxguy wrote:Why down grade from discs to drums... stupid and a waste of time if you ask meHere is an idea! Lets spend some money and downgrade to crap.
Sorry but that was truly funny. The Drum setup is the parking brake. Unlike a 240 which applies the rear caliper, the 300z has a mini drum setup inside of the brake rotor.

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hybrid_flyer
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nissans13240sx wrote: I have been looking in the 300zx sticky and havent really come across a definate answer so... How exactly do i get my ebrake to work with the 300zx rear calipers? im guessing i need the drum setup??? how does it mount up though?
Actually I am doin this one for the second time so I can def. help ya out. Its pretty easy, first you need the parking brake assembly which is part of the backing plate. From there you either get the parking brake cables from a 300z 2+2 or you hack and mod your 240 cable and whatever cable comes attached to the used parking brake assembly you buy. To attach You simply remove the hub (at this point just install the 5 lugger and be done with it Check the sponsor thread for a great deal on Ichiba Hubs). The hub on the rear is attached by 4 bolts simply remove them and install the new backing plate.

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eazye2000
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coupe240sxguy wrote:Why down grade from discs to drums... stupid and a waste of time if you ask meHere is an idea! Lets spend some money and downgrade to crap.


Ok, that was funny for a second....

Here's an idea! Learn about the parts before you talk crap... ...I'm not even going to explain

And as far as the backing plate goes, does it bolt up to the S13 rear spindle/knuckle without problems?

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mxkid54
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When you go to put the E-Brake plate on the Knuckel don't forget to clean out the hole that the large stud goes through. Make sure you run some sandpaper through it and also start at least 2 of the 4 bolts that hold the hub in to keep alignment. The large stud is to hold the torque of the e-brake and keep it from spinning. As far as the cables go I didn't want to hack the stock 240 cables and the 300 cables so I used the 240 cables uncut. I rerouted the stock right side to go under the diff housing and mounted it to the left and vice-versa. I then cut the stock cable holding bracket from the old 240 rear calipers and welded it to the subframe to hold the cable. The stock 240 cable has a nice loop at the end to route the 300 cable once you cut it. I felt this was a better solution to cutting both sets and just clamping them together. I don't have any pictures of this but if anyone needs any I may can get some taken.

94_240sx
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This thread might be helpful...

zer...age=1

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coupe240sxguy
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eazye2000 wrote:

Ok, that was funny for a second....

Here's an idea! Learn about the parts before you talk crap... ...I'm not even going to explain

And as far as the backing plate goes, does it bolt up to the S13 rear spindle/knuckle without problems?
I do appologize, I later did discover what parts he was talking about and the setup. I first thought that he wanted to go from disc to no disc, but I now understand what he was talking about

94_240sx
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94_240sx wrote:This thread might be helpful...

zer...age=1
It depends on your situation. 5-lug, 4-lug and e-brake parts from which year z32 matters. This is one famous z32 brake swap and this article and nico link I posted will give you some idea on what to get and how to.

http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm

nissans13240sx
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thanks guys i appriciate the help

RB20DETodd
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coupe240sxguy wrote:Why down grade from discs to drums... stupid and a waste of time if you ask meHere is an idea! Lets spend some money and downgrade to crap.
rofltastic!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

94_240sx
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hybrid_flyer wrote:Unlike a 240 which applies the rear caliper, the 300z has a mini drum setup inside of the brake rotor.
As far as I know, z32 has drum e-brake setup cuz the car is heavy. Rear brake parts get heated up more, and when e-brake applies rear pads can make marks on rotors or worst case, get stuck. Pls correct me if I'm wrong.

"downgrade to crap" <-- This was a good one.


gumby74
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You are sort of wrong, but the real reasoning may be a mystery. I have heard parking with hot rotors may warp them to extending caliper life and increasing efficiency. So we will just call it a fatter car and leave it at that.

I used the Z32 cables and simply made a C shaped extension about 3" long. I bolted the open end to the stock brake cable on the chassis. The closed end is slotted to let the Z32 cable mount up similar to stock. I used 1/8" x1" thick aluminum. I have since made a better, stronger one from steel. I just have to get down there and replace it. I have had the aluminum pieces on for over 3 years btw.

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mxkid54
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Actually I think a big part of the reason for the drum e-brake is that with a opposing piston rigid mount caliper you only have one pad making contact if you were to use an e-brake like the 240 has stock. For the outer pad to make contact it would have to bend the rotor or have a similar mechanism for the outer piston. Full size trucks also use the 300ZX setup but with a sliding caliper. This was more due to the fact that these trucks have 2 piston slider calipers on the rear and for a e--brake to work well it would need a cam mechanism on both pistons. If you only actuated one of the 2 pistons with the e-brake this would cause uneven pressure on the slider part of the caliper and wear it prematurly. As far as heat on the rotor this is also an issue. I have seen rotors from race cars that were stoped hot and the driver kept pressure on the brakes and it resulted in the pad material welding to the hot cast iron. The pad will brake apart when the car rolls again. An drum e-brake helps this.


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