300zx car has no power over 2500-3000 rpm

[ali123]

Hi guys, so I bought a 93 300zx tt from a guy. The car wasn't touched for 2 years since his son died and I drove it down to 3 hours back to where i live. after about 2hrs it started jerking at stop lights and turning itself off. To turn it back on I had to push the gas alittle a the same time while turning on the key and the car rpm's wouldnt go over 2500-3000 no matter how hard I tried. What could be the problem? Btw the caronly has one turbo right now according to the owner. Should I just take it to a Nissan dealer and run a inspection on everything?

Thank you

[ThisIsSparTTa]

DO NOT TAKE IT TO THE DEALER. You are in limp mode. There's TONS of troubleshooting you should be doing that's easily accessible with a a little searching, probably starting at pulling the ECU codes. I'm assuming you knew that buying a 20 year old car that you had little history on was going to require some work. If you're going to take it to the shop, or (god forbid) a dealer for every problem you're going to be out of a LOT of money, and if you aren't taking it to a shop that specializes in Z's probably get some shoddy work by someone that doesn't understand the complexity of these cars. Anyways, do some searching on limp mode then let us know what troubleshooting you've done.

[ali123]

Yes I did assume. Ok I'll look up limp mode.

Thanks

[ali123]

Btw I know it's leaking alot of oil. Engine oil stick is fine right now though.

Thank you

[Ace2cool]

Most likely from the valve covers. Have you pulled codes from the ECU yet?

[ali123]

Ok i got code 53 which ix the exhaust gas sensor unit. The first time the car turned off was right next to the gas station we first though it ran out of gas. So we pushed it to the pump and filled it with 91 gas shell and it started working again till it the problem started happening repeatedly an hour later.

Thanks

[ali123]

Could it be the fuel injectors which is why I need to put gas through the pedal to start it up? or the fuel pump

[ali123]

oh ya btw the engine makes a air sucking sound when trying to go above that range. I thought that it could be a vacuum leak but it couldeeb turbos I guess. Never had a 300zx before.


I showed this to a guy at a auto shop and he got concerned when he saw it was bent. Could it be related?



Thanks

[Ziggy1621]

Why are you bypassing the intercoolers? You need to hook up the intercooler piping correctly for starters. Look it up in the FSM. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/300zx/

[ali123]

Not sure why but I guess I will get the hoses to do that.

Thanks

[Ace2cool]

Whoah, this thing is some kind of special. Looks like you inherited some ghetto rigged stuff. Post a full picture of your engine bay. There might be some other very obvious stuff that we need to point out. Try and get a decently high resolution.

[ali123]

Ya it does look ghetto unfortunately. Was going to sleep but saw your message.

Heres a pic of the engine bay

http://imageshack.us/a/img132/9155/20130323040356.jpg

supposed turbo areas

http://imageshack.us/a/img845/2849/201303230131171.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img35/3668/201303230132061.jpg

Youtube of startup first time it turned off was my mistake second time it was in neutral and did it to itself.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fizf5Tu1xE8

[Ace2cool]

Yeah first things first, you need to fix the super obvious stuff. Need to get a boost hose that goes from the turbo to the intercooler, and the re-route that other hose like the other side. Your car is confused on how much air it's actually getting, which is why it's stumbling and dying. After that, we can see if it runs better, or if the symptoms change. Until then, nothing's going to help.

[Ziggy1621]

PTU is in a weird place too. May be a bit too close to the PS pump. Won't stop it from running, but I wouldn't leave it down there

[ali123]

Hey guys can you help me figure out if this car has frame damage?





Other side is fine

[Ace2cool]

Might just be misaligned, but it has been resprayed. The mirror bases are supposed to be black, and I'm sure the moustache is body colored as well. We won't be able to tell from these pictures though. The only real way would be to tear into the body section of the FSM, and take measurements. Either that or take it to a body shop to have measurements taken.

[Ziggy1621]

He has a passenger cowl! Score!

[BlackWidowZ]

not not frame damage. you have dented panels that have been straitened, they have bondo, mud in them, and not realigned properly. You have bad respray. The passenger side looks like somone had the door open and backed into somthing that ripped the door forward into the fender denting the front of the door skin and the fender.

I really cant be for certain what you need too look for is at the radiator core support and see if it has welds on it or has been changed. If you dont see the OEM stickers thats a sign that the car has either been in a front end collision. Antother thing you want to check is the seams on the door skins. Look at the door where the outer door sheet metal (skin) is seamed to the door core. If that seam doesnt look factory or original or the workmanship on one doesn't match the other that means that door has been in a collision. Look for rubber plugs especially around the door jams, while this doesn't necessarily mean a bad thing becasue its common PDR procedure to drill a hole to pop a dent out, it could be an indicator of larger collisions.

Good news is as far as damaged body panels go, as long as it is from the doors forward everything from the doors forward can be replaced with bolt on parts if you want it to be perfect. If you have rear quarter panel accident that cant be just fixed it will never be right.