300zx brakes but what wheel offset's work

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my91silvia
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Car: 91 240 sx going to Silvia

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I am wanting to buy a 300z front brake conversion but i don't want to put it on and find out my wheels wont work. will the stock 40mm offset fit or do i need to change it?


cdlong
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yes and no. i would explain it to you, but you'll have to learn the search function sooner or later, so how about right now.

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SmithSR
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Car: 240sx

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Here is the 350Z rays wheel and S14 SE wheel

Both clear TT Z32 caliper

the S13 alloy clears the Z32 iron 26mm caliper but that's all

To clear the larger calipers, a wheel needs a deep bolt pad plus flat spokes.


cdlong
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SR_Smith wrote:the S13 alloy clears the Z32 iron 26mm caliper but that's all
there's no such thing as a 26mm iron caliper, the 26mm caliper only came on the '90 NA and it was aluminum.

and that's not all, there are two different types of 7 spokes alloys, i assume that's what he has since he has a '91 "silvia", search around and figure out which one you have and which one works.

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SmithSR
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I've held it in my hand, we have them at work, i measured the rotor then inserted it into a the loaded caliper.It's cast iron dude..or rather.. there is a cast iron 26

cdlong
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what car was it from, this is the first i've ever heard it. a 26mm rotor will fit into a 30mm caliper BTW.

my91silvia
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Well i have tried searching for offset sizes but had no luck. i need to know if, when i'm ordering my wheel do i need to change the offset or stock offset is fine.

cdlong
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i suggest searching less and reading more. the info is here, just not where you are looking. here's a statement that you will see pretty often if you read more, "caliper clearance isn't depentant on offset"

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slipknotfan192
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Car: S14 95 240sx SE

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allright so you can put the z32 calipers on and not have to worry about th offset??

my91silvia
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SR_Smith wrote:Here is the 350Z rays wheel and S14 SE wheel

To clear the larger calipers, a wheel needs a deep bolt pad plus flat spokes.
well if this is correct then isn't the deep bolt pad also the offset which is the measurement of the wheel spaced out from the hub?

cdlong
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my91silvia wrote:well if this is correct then isn't the deep bolt pad also the offset which is the measurement of the wheel spaced out from the hub?
no

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ArticDragon192
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To be mroe direct than "clearance is not dependent on offset", it depends on spoke design. Meshies won't clear Z brakes without a spacer since it's a flat spoke design. Only some 7 spoke S13 alloys will clear because of the design at the back of the spokes. It's all about spoke design.

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Red coupe
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If you think about what offset is....It really is irrelevant when it come to the distance in between the spokes and the caliper.These are the S13 alloys that will clearnotice the spokes curve outwards, this allows the caliper to tuck in the empty space.Now the bad wheels:(Image source)2 wheels, same width and offset however the thicker spokes that don't curve outwards will interfere with the caliper

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ArticDragon192
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I have the good rims, yay!

my91silvia
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Well with help from the yokohama website, and posts from everyone, i understand the difference now. but has anyone tried Rays Gram Lights 57C Wheels with z calipers?

chmercer
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buy z brakes. buy wheels. if wheels dont fit, add spacer. done. man i hate these threads.

cdlong
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http://www.rayswheels.co.jp/cg...e=57C

the ones with one or two stars or squares will clear. it never hurts to check the company's website.

http://www.rayswheels.co.jp/indexe.html

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szh
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chmercer wrote:buy z brakes. buy wheels. if wheels dont fit, add spacer. done. man i hate these threads.
Spacers are evil!!! See the following:
Nismo_freak wrote:Thats because spacers aren't a good option in both my and Chet's opinion.

They put alot of stress on the hub, bearing, and the studs themselves. Getting elongated studs does nothing but allow the lug nuts to fit properly. The stress is still there, and as a result you are more likely to have a hub or wheel stud failure, ie. wheel coming off of car. Not saying if you run a spacer your car is gonna flip and explode like it's the persuit car in a John Woo movie, but it's just not the best way of doing it, especially when you have the option of a correct offset in the wheels you plan to purchase.

The spacers not only present another thing to go wrong but they also can cause vibrations that can't be fixed by balancing the wheel and a host of other annoyances.

Just my .02
Grant@tirerack wrote:Both Exar Kun and Nismo Freak are right on the money. The only way I would run a spacer is if it is designed as an O.E. fitment like some of the early Porsche wheels. The spacer is hubcentric and fits correctly into the center bore of the wheel with heaver rated hardware. I keep a lug bolt on my desk here at work that a customer sent in for a warranty claim on a wheel. He took one of our standard wheels and put in a 5mm spacer and new lug bolts provided by the local shop with the spacer. Six weeks later he had a wheel/tire come off at about 70 mph on the interstate. The last third of the threads are gone. After looking at the photos and wheels and being asked, he admitted he was running spacers. The marking inside the center bore was very pronounced and even though he was told they were hub-centric, the spacer had a slight taper that did not seat flush against the center bore of the wheel. That slop allowed the spacer to move ever so slightly inside the back of the wheel. The lug seats started to 'wallow out' and the studs failed as a result. The car was never tracked or taken out to the autocross.
But you are right that this topic has been done to death! See zerothread?id=62471.

Z


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