I thought this would be a fairly easy install, but no it hasn't been.
Car: 95 240sx se without ABS
refrenced: http://importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm#MC
I am trying to install the 1 1/16 MC, and am very much hung up on trying to transfer the fitting/flare from the stock MC to the 300ZX MC. I already trashed the first fitting, and have given up trying to cut out the 2nd one. Does anyone have any tricks that might help me out?Does anyone know if these flares are sold seperately? (called a few places today, got no where) Does anyone know if the the flare is slighty hit (none gashed more light buffed) if that will affect anything)?Does anyone know if I can buy an adapter for this? (I know an adapter is possible after today, but no one had anything that worked. Anyone companies that might be able to help? Tried Russell but their website was acting up)
Someone out there has been through this. Chime in please.
TIA
Todd Carver
300zx 1 1/16" Master Cylinder Install
I am in the middle of the same swap right now myself. I have a bubble flaring tool that I can use tho, but I have made a test line with a flare and it seems that the nut bottoms out before the line is completely tight. I am going to attempt to get out one of my fittings from my original MC tonight so if I find an easy way I'll post and let you know.
No it is not, you need a metric line flaring tool. I actually tried to use a standard line flaring tool and it wouldnt do the job. I only have access to a metric flaring tool because I work at a new car dealer. You can buy one but look to spend about $75 or more for a tool you will only use once probably. The flare you need to make is a metric bubble flare and not a double flare and your line size is 4mm. You would be best off using a fitting from your stock MC if you can get one out. Like I said I am going to try in a few hours so hang in there and I'll see how it goes with mine.
I am posting this in the Nissan Tech section as well, but I wanted you to see this and tell me what you think.
I finally got the ferrule (I believe that's how you spell it) out unfortunately it took a little beating. I think it might still be usable tho.
http://myweb.cableone.net/dgcarve/P6220 ... 220177.jpg
I left them in 1600 x 1200 format so you could get as much as detail as possible.
What do you think?
I haven't put it in yet, because once it's in the MC there's no turning back, so I'm very hesitant right now.
TIA
Todd Carver
I finally got the ferrule (I believe that's how you spell it) out unfortunately it took a little beating. I think it might still be usable tho.
http://myweb.cableone.net/dgcarve/P6220 ... 220177.jpg
I left them in 1600 x 1200 format so you could get as much as detail as possible.
What do you think?
I haven't put it in yet, because once it's in the MC there's no turning back, so I'm very hesitant right now.
TIA
Todd Carver
Here you are:
http://www.sportcompactcarweb....lvia/
It sounds like you got a Tokico cylinder when you needed the Nabco unit. If you read through the article you will see that with the Tokico unit you need to fab your own bubble flare line where as the Nabco unit is plug (or unplug and then plug) and play.
Good luck with that!!
http://www.sportcompactcarweb....lvia/
It sounds like you got a Tokico cylinder when you needed the Nabco unit. If you read through the article you will see that with the Tokico unit you need to fab your own bubble flare line where as the Nabco unit is plug (or unplug and then plug) and play.
Good luck with that!!
That's what I thought too....read it closer. It only means the plug. Tokico vs Nabco only matters if you have non-ABS. If you have ABS buy either one. IF you don't have ABS you have to put the fitting in. I bought a Nabco under the earlier impression.
I read and reread the SCC article and the importnut article at least 20 times before I started this, but somehow I still was under the impression that Nabco is the easy route and Tokico is tough. Turns out its, ABS = easy route, non-ABS= workout.
I read and reread the SCC article and the importnut article at least 20 times before I started this, but somehow I still was under the impression that Nabco is the easy route and Tokico is tough. Turns out its, ABS = easy route, non-ABS= workout.
Sorry I didnt post last night but I forgot once I got home. Your fitting looks a little beat up but it may still be useable. I actually pulled the fitting out of my clutch dampener since I had removed it recently and it was still laying around. I got my MC from advance and there was a $50 core so destroying my original MC was only an option if all else failed. Here's the deal tho, if you have any fittings left in the original MC try to get them out with less damage. I "think" that the fitting you have there will probably be ok but if you can use a better one that would be preferred. The fittings from my clutch dampener are a little different in they arent tapered on the end that goes into the MC. So it took a little more beating than I liked to get it in and I actually deformed the flare side a little, but luckily it doesnt seem to be leaking as of yet. If I were you I would only resort to re-flaring the line if all else goes awry because you are going to have a hard time getting ahold of the proper tool and you will run into problems with the nut on the line wanting to bottom out before the line is tight. As far as tokico vs. nabco, from what I gather you are right and I actually bought the tokico unit, they all only use 2 lines vs. 3 for our cars because of the use of abs, if we had abs it would be much simpler but I actually dislike abs so for me I dont really care. Good luck and keep us posted................
I have 30 mm fronts, and rears sitting in a box in my room. I'm wating to get the rears powdercoated.
The big gash is from my dad (I'm 21 but home from college for the summer). He was working a little to fast, so that's why it has the big line in it.
EDIT:
Oh and socal, when I was in my buy all the brake hardware phase, you can and bought almost everything I was going to buy from underneath me (rear e-brakes, outbid me on my MC, and something else). Never really thought I'd get a chance to talk to you. Ebay id: tcarve
The big gash is from my dad (I'm 21 but home from college for the summer). He was working a little to fast, so that's why it has the big line in it.
EDIT:
Oh and socal, when I was in my buy all the brake hardware phase, you can and bought almost everything I was going to buy from underneath me (rear e-brakes, outbid me on my MC, and something else). Never really thought I'd get a chance to talk to you. Ebay id: tcarve
OIC, blame it on the old man lol..... Well I am driving mine with the stock calipers right now because I have been planning for the upgrade but I needed a MC asap because mine went south. Boy is my pedal stiff lol. Right now it is like trying to stop a bus with no power assist. Lets just say that this has put my plans to upgrade the rest of the system in high gear because I hate driving it like this. Anyhow, if you can manage, try to get another fitting out and with a little less damage. If not, you can "probably" get by with the one you have because like I said I deformed mine while installing it in my new MC and it seems to be working ok.
It's in and working, and no visible signs of leaking.
I will post pictures in a little later.
You are right, the pedal is friggin' stiff as hell. Current Setup includes the follow with no power mods: (listed because it influences lockup)300zx LSDAGX/PK's30 mm 300zx calipersstock 300zx rotorsAlbany pads (Autozone cheapys)Kumho MX's 205/55/16a few bushings here and there
First test drive, I was dissapointed. Wouldn't lock up for the life of me. Standing on the pedal at 60 mph wouldn't do ****. Did several other hard braking situations and wouldn't lock up at all, and I also thought for my current setup the stopping distance should have been better. Came back, and let my dad drive. Holy hell, second time out they were much better. Locked the tires up very quickly and skidded true (straight). Impressed.
This was also the first time my brake system had been flushed and bleed that thoroughly.
I have admittedly not driven the car since it started stopping better.The only con is the brake pedal is very firm and doesn't seem to have much depth to it. All the breaking effort seems to be in the top 1/2 - 1" of the pedal. I also admit that this is the point where you can't use cheap pads. The cheap pads don't seem have enough bite to use all of the 300zx components capabilities. They feel like the harder you press the more the rotor slides right past the pad. I would also say whenever someone does the MC upgrade to also use a decent set of pads.
I'll do a better right a bit later.
Thank you all for your help and suggestions, albeit some I already knew. At least people posted tho. In my other forum (which I will probably no longer visit) not 1 person has responded)
I will post pictures in a little later.
You are right, the pedal is friggin' stiff as hell. Current Setup includes the follow with no power mods: (listed because it influences lockup)300zx LSDAGX/PK's30 mm 300zx calipersstock 300zx rotorsAlbany pads (Autozone cheapys)Kumho MX's 205/55/16a few bushings here and there
First test drive, I was dissapointed. Wouldn't lock up for the life of me. Standing on the pedal at 60 mph wouldn't do ****. Did several other hard braking situations and wouldn't lock up at all, and I also thought for my current setup the stopping distance should have been better. Came back, and let my dad drive. Holy hell, second time out they were much better. Locked the tires up very quickly and skidded true (straight). Impressed.
This was also the first time my brake system had been flushed and bleed that thoroughly.
I have admittedly not driven the car since it started stopping better.The only con is the brake pedal is very firm and doesn't seem to have much depth to it. All the breaking effort seems to be in the top 1/2 - 1" of the pedal. I also admit that this is the point where you can't use cheap pads. The cheap pads don't seem have enough bite to use all of the 300zx components capabilities. They feel like the harder you press the more the rotor slides right past the pad. I would also say whenever someone does the MC upgrade to also use a decent set of pads.
I'll do a better right a bit later.
Thank you all for your help and suggestions, albeit some I already knew. At least people posted tho. In my other forum (which I will probably no longer visit) not 1 person has responded)