300 rwhp turbo KA...

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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WDRacing
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Ok...every one grab a glove and get in the game here. If you eliminate detonation, not hard fella's, you can boost 12 psi all day. I'm quite sure 15 is even done safely, but I'm not going to say that simply because I don't trust anyone else's tuning except for mine.

If your blowing motors at 7 psi, you might as well stick to driving NA cars. Cause you obviously lack the simple, and I mean simple, skills that it takes to build a forced induction motor.

You do not need a standalone system to run over 7 psi of boost. That is just silly...

WD


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Exar-Kun
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"tuners in socal area?"

did you open your door and look outside yet?

haha, sorry man, socal is about the best place to get tuning done, as far as imports go...hell, go find "signal auto" drop them a credit card and let them at it...you wont be dissapointed.-chet

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TrunkMonkey
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my apologies to 2shortysx.

i was trying to respond to your last post with a quote and i accidentally deleted it.:( sometimes you forget you have super powers when you're a mod.

you stated that mckinney said to not push more than 7 psi on stock internals.

i don't know of any reputable shops/companies that will tell you that you can push a stock engine past a certain level. call fmax, nsport, or xs-engineering and i bet they'll all tell you to not push your stock engine past what their kits are set at.

if you tell every inexperienced jimmy joe johnson that he can run 15psi on his stock engine, then every jimmy joe johnson is going to be coming to you to compensate him for damages that his inexperience caused.

it's called liabilty, and every company/organization tries to avoid it.

-demetrius

2shortysx
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demcj wrote:my apologies to 2shortysx.

i was trying to respond to your last post with a quote and i accidentally deleted it.:( sometimes you forget you have super powers when you're a mod.

you stated that mckinney said to not push more than 7 psi on stock internals.

i don't know of any reputable shops/companies that will tell you that you can push a stock engine past a certain level. call fmax, nsport, or xs-engineering and i bet they'll all tell you to not push your stock engine past what their kits are set at.

if you tell every inexperienced jimmy joe johnson that he can run 15psi on his stock engine, then every jimmy joe johnson is going to be coming to you to compensate him for damages that his inexperience caused.

it's called liabilty, and every company/organization tries to avoid it.

-demetrius


it's all good!i was just trying to bring " real world " situations to a point where everyone else can see, because i know there are plenty of enthusiasts(?) out there who want to be able to" swim with the big fish", play with the big dawgs, etc..... there's alot of curious pepole out there just like myself who have the same questions looking for reality answers. but now i've learned that hey, if you wanna push more than 7 psi on a stock bottom end, use the jwt setup and try your luck. maybe you'll succeed maybe you won't. but it'll be a lesson to be learned. this is what it's all about. just having fun out there. but still, if someone says you can run more boost then come to find out a blown engine and no transportation but your own 2 feet later.........now that sucks!

peace!

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WDRacing
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If you use a knock sensor or have access to a dyno, you'll be able to see whether or not your motor is suffering from detonation. With the appropriate amount of fuel 12 psi is easily attainable.

If tuning your car to run a higher amount of boost makes you nervous, there are lot of tuners who will be glad to help you out on the dyno.

The KA will tolerate 12 psi very well, over this is where it gets slightly more tricky.

WD

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now this may be a little bit off base, but do you already have the n-sport kit, or are you just planning on buying it and upgrading. From reading some of the replies, if you do not already have the n-sport kit, wouldn't the f-max kit better suit your needs? Unless I am wrong, it comes with 370cc injectors and a jwt ecu, which, unless I am mistaken, will work better towards your 300 hp mark. Maybe I missed something, but this is just a thought I had.

Thanks for taking the time to read

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WDRacing wrote:14 psi is easy, you just need to add fuel. For that there are tons of different options. Like Matt said search around. We covered this not to long ago.

Basically the JWT ecu and some 550's will allow you to run 12-14 psi with no problems. But there are other things like MAF and what not that need to addressed.

All covered in other posts.

Try reading the FAQ's.


I dont know if i believe that about the stock rails.The size of the fuel rail is -6an i beleive, its the same size as the 300zx TT. The 300zx can use 550 and 720 cc injectors all day long. HP is irrelevant at this point, but the flow of the injectors isnt going to be compromised because of restrictions in the fuel rail.Also, the sr20 can utilize up 720cc injectors with no problems. I have 4 freinds that are currently using the 720's nad have had no issues what so ever other Then being rich and having to tune them really well. The only time you SHOULD have to switch is if you want top feeds or for looks. Ka's can use side feeds no problem up to 720---but youll save money switching to top feed. WD-- i have been wanting to mess around with a methanol injection system from aquamist--and i know you are a believer in that kind of system(alcohol/water), you have any ideas on it?

_josh

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MarkEmark
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S13Ka24e wrote:The n-sport bolt on turbo with 7psi they claims make 240rwhp. A port and polish usually adds 20% hp so that is another 48rwhp. Now you bump the boost to 9 or 10psi I would think you would get to close to 300rwhp you might need more like 11 or 12 psi. A 35mm waste gate will be fine but you will have to change the spring. Bosch is fine, but like the HKS BOV better, (mainly just the sound). If you are running the JWT ECU with larger injectors you do not need a FMU. Injectors need to be atlest 370cc to take 10psi then if you run 12psi you will need larger +400cc. Head gasket, if you are going to take the head off to port and polish you should change it. Good luck.

S13Ka24e


I don't mean to bring up such an old post, but does anyone else think that 48rwhp from a port and polish seems very exaggerated? THat must be one helluva port and polish--I thought N/A engines benefitted a lot more from such a modification since the air isn't pressurized and being forced into the cylinders and therefore the design/flow of the head is a lot more important...?

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nah--p&p is a good thing for any motor, but for FI, its helps ariflow--what FI is all about.But hell yeah--48 hp is alot of gain from a p&p. I dont think thats entirely correct.But hey--if that IS true--Im headed to the machine shop today.

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I read on a different thread that the stock fuel rail can flow up 600hp easily. I see don't see why not. It is the same fuel rail as a sr20 just flipped backwards.

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WDRacing
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Quote » WD-- i have been wanting to mess around with a methanol injection system from aquamist--and i know you are a believer in that kind of system(alcohol/water), you have any ideas on it?

_josh [/quote]

I wouldn't run methonal. Its to damn corrosive and it has to be drained everyday. I would however run denatured alky, toulene or xylene. The toulene and xylene will need to be mixed with pump gas and have a bit of mystery oil added to lube the pump and keep the valves and whatnot all lubed up. I'm going to run Toulene staright myself, but I'm not injecting it till well over 12 psi. So it will have enough heat and cylinder pressure to ignite.

WD


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