3-piece wheel rebuild?

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ss82480
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Ok so recently I have noticed my front driver's side wheel has been losing air pressure slowly. I got the tire replaced for free so I know its not a bad tire.

I checked with the local tire places and they are saying between $175-$250 to re-gasket for one wheel. Anyone have any suggestions?



nzmoman
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if its already messed up you should try to do it yourself. if that doesnt work then pay the money. unless the seal is one of those "if you mess up you die" situations

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adrianfromthecastle
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I'd take it to a shop. I dont think 3pc wheels aren't made for a DIY rebuild. Hell, it's outer rivets are equally torqued to a specified weight, and personally, if you don't have the proper tools and experience, you can really mess up it's balance for good.

However, $175-$200 is a lot! I've never really priced wheel rebuild's, but if I were you, I'd search other wheel shops and inquire on prices to see if they do range around that price or to find cheaper places.

ss82480
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Thanks for the input, I have managed to find a local place that said they can get it rebuilt for closer to $110. That sounds more reasonable, I'll prolly get it done in a few weeks.

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evildky
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did the make sure the bead area was clean dna free of old tire remnant and cracks? I've had wheels leak otu due to bits of the old tires being stuck inside the bead, most production tire shops don't take the time to check for such things, it's also far more likely to have a leaking valve stem than the wheels itself, I can't speak for all 3 piece wheels but my CCW's are sealed up with silciln on the inside(my Keizers were the same way), with the tire off it's be pretty easy to inspect the mating area, even if yours happen to use some sort of seal (which I doubt) you could still just add silicoln on top of the seam

ans are you positive they are 3 piece and not 2 piece? gernerally when wheels have that many tiny screws around the perimiter they are 2 piece nto 3

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adrianfromthecastle
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evildky wrote:ans are you positive they are 3 piece and not 2 piece? gernerally when wheels have that many tiny screws around the perimiter they are 2 piece nto 3
not true. then what would a 3 pc look like? no screws? The screws hold in both parts of the barrel, making it 3 pc. (1 face and 2 parts to the barrel)

ss82480
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Yeah they are 3pc. As far as checking the valve stem I guess for some reason that never occurred to me. I brought it in 6 months ago with a flat tire and no punctures, they just threw a new tire on it and called it a day. I'll try and make sure everything else is in good shape before I shell out the $$ for the rebuild that's for sure.

justjuiceit4
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What kind of wheels are they?

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evildky
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adrians_s13 wrote:not true. then what would a 3 pc look like? no screws? The screws hold in both parts of the barrel, making it 3 pc. (1 face and 2 parts to the barrel)
tiny screws!granted it's nto a great pic and kinda hard to tell but a lot of 2 piece bbs and other wheels use a whole lot of tiny little screws to hold the wheel center to the wheel, where as 3 piece wheels tend to use fewwer larger diameter screws to hold the wheel together, here is apic of my 17x12's; and it's kinda hard to tell from the pic but the harware is pretty stout compared to what 2 piece wheels have, and his pic is too small to tell for sure, they just look pretty tiny in the pic

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AmoebAssassin
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It's perfectly safe to re-build your own 3pc wheels.

On our formula cars we ran into a situation in which we were forced to rebuild a wheel on short notice. Make sure you put all of the screws and nuts in a bag. Typically, the nuts will be of the nylon locking variety, make sure you have ALL of these when you put the wheel back together.

Start by unbolting all the bolts. Use a razor to cut out whatever preexisting seal is there. Separate the two barrels and the face. Gently, use some fine scotch-brite or fine grit sandpaper to prep the mating surfaces of the two barrels. Using some silicone caulk and your finger or some applicator, apply some caulk to the mating faces of the two barrels. Using a couple of the bolts as guides, press the two barrels together. Remove the bolts, and then bolt the spokes/face onto the barrels. Once all the bolts are in, use your finger or the applicator to spread caulk on the joint between the two barrels, on the surface that the tire encloses.

If you don't feel like completely disassembling your wheels, then I bet you could get away with running some caulk along the area where the two barrels meet, on the surface that the tire encloses.

ss82480
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justjuiceit4 wrote:What kind of wheels are they?
Zauber Mesh

crapanese
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hey ss82480 i dont mean to change topic in your thread but what are the specs on your wheels, are you running any spacers ? i have similar offset +22 and +20 for my wheels, was just wondering the specs on wheel / tire sizing. id really appreciate it, i havent gotten any good feedback in the wheel and tire forum

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adrianfromthecastle
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evildky wrote:tiny screws!
ah i see where you went with that...

ss82480
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crapanese wrote:hey ss82480 i dont mean to change topic in your thread but what are the specs on your wheels, are you running any spacers ? i have similar offset +22 and +20 for my wheels, was just wondering the specs on wheel / tire sizing. id really appreciate it, i havent gotten any good feedback in the wheel and tire forum
17x8 +23(by a 15mm spacer) and 17x9 +28(by a 5mm spacer)


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