3.5L Valve Cover Gasket Project

[mdmellott]

Am I missing any parts, especially rubber and gaskets, that absolutely should be done while deep into the valve cover gaskets?

Spark plugs... any recommendations?

That about more than covers it.

As for plugs, I have been using Bosch 9609 Double Iridium (made in Germany). The Bosch factory in China has quality control issues so I ensure no plugs I purchase are made in China. NGK LFR5IX-11 (made in Japan) would also be a good choice. Here too, the NGK factory in China is hit and miss on quality control so I ensure no plugs I purchase are produced in China.

[mdmellott]

Am I missing any parts, especially rubber and gaskets, that absolutely should be done while deep into the valve cover gaskets? I'd rather err on getting too many parts than not enough, since I figure they'll be needed eventually.

When I had mine torn down, I wish I had more closely examined a few other pieces that were readily accessible at the time. The swill control valve actuator mounted to the intake manifold should have its old vacuum hose replaced. Its a simple thing but at the moment I can't think of any other way to replace it other than when the the lower intake plenum is removed, as you will be doing to get the valve covers off.

[Pathyj1]

The swill control valve actuator mounted to the intake manifold should have its old vacuum hose replaced. Its a simple thing but at the moment I can't think of any other way to replace it other than when the the lower intake plenum is removed, as you will be doing to get the valve covers off.

I don’t know what a “swill control valve actuator” is. Could you educate me or point me to a part number?

[mdmellott]

I don’t know what a “swill control valve actuator” is. Could you educate me or point me to a part number?

I can't seem to find a separate part number for that component. Nissan Parts Deal shows the intake manifold assembly part number, which includes all the swirl control valves in each intake port plus the pneumatic actuator mounted at the front, lower end of the manifold but no individual component part numbers. Here is a picture of the intake manifold assembly, shown from the bottom view of it. The actuator in that yellow zinc chromate plated component with the vacuum hose attached. Nissan's catalog image of it, shown below, is some help in seeing where it is located on the manifold as well. Looking at this again, I'm still not sure if it is that easy to get at, even with the lower intake plenum removed. I'd hate to think Nissan designed this so boxed in that the manifold would have to come off as well. Maybe that's why I didn't bother with it when I replaced my valve covers. I don't remember looking for it.

[Pathyj1]

Another question. I was about to buy this on Amazon: Uremco 2-6 1 Fuel injector seal kit

This comes with one o ring per injector. I assume it’s the one that goes into the fuel rail. Do I also need a second o ring or insulator for the bottom end?

Any recommendations on specific products would be welcome. I’ve had issues for other cars finding the right size. Seems like OEM would be nearly $100 for the 12 and I can’t get myself to pay that much!

[mdmellott]

Another question. I was about to buy this on Amazon: Uremco 2-6 1 Fuel injector seal kit

This comes with one o ring per injector. I assume it’s the one that goes into the fuel rail. Do I also need a second o ring or insulator for the bottom end?

Any recommendations on specific products would be welcome. I’ve had issues for other cars finding the right size. Seems like OEM would be nearly $100 for the 12 and I can’t get myself to pay that much!

If this is the Uremco kit on Amazon you are looking at for the '01 Pathfinder, it shows a complete set of all the seals, not just the one seal, and filter baskets. https://www.amazon.com/UREMCO-2-6-Fuel- ... 01GWWIC72/

[Pathyj1]

You’re right! I’m losing my mind. Thanks.

[Pathyj1]

Any tips or warnings removing the fuel rail? So I can use this... Uremco 2-6 1 Fuel injector seal kit.

Any tips or warnings replacing these cooling system parts? I believe the fuel rail needs to be removed to do these:
11062-4P100 Water outlet gasket
11062-AL51A Water outlet gasket (2x)
21230-6N20A Water control valve
21049-6N220 Water control valve o-ring

Are there other fuel system parts, like a regulator or hoses, that would be good to replace while the intake is off? Since my overly optimistic one-day valve cover replacement is going to take a couple weeks while I wait for additional parts, I figured I'd ask a few more questions and take my time doing things right.

[mdmellott]

Any tips or warnings removing the fuel rail? So I can use this... Uremco 2-6 1 Fuel injector seal kit.

Any tips or warnings replacing these cooling system parts? I believe the fuel rail needs to be removed to do these:
11062-4P100 Water outlet gasket
11062-AL51A Water outlet gasket (2x)
21230-6N20A Water control valve
21049-6N220 Water control valve o-ring

Are there other fuel system parts, like a regulator or hoses, that would be good to replace while the intake is off? Since my overly optimistic one-day valve cover replacement is going to take a couple weeks while I wait for additional parts, I figured I'd ask a few more questions and take my time doing things right.

When reinstalling the injectors and fuel rails, it is recommended to install new retaining clips. (17571-5L30B)
I could be mistaken, but I don't think you have to remove the fuel rail to deal with those water parts.

On these older engines, every piece of rubber, plastic, and small rusty bits (hoses, harness connectors, screws and nuts and the like) are potential unexpected issues to deal with when they break while disassembling them.

I highly recommend the Haynes Repair Manual for these operations. It will save you a great deal of time working on your Pathfinder. https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-Frontier- ... 1563926105

[Pathyj1]

I just found this series of 7 videos (so far, as of July 2022) that does a teardown of a 2001 QX4, down to the lower intake and collector gaskets, as well as the rear thermostat. By "Keith & Kevin's Repair & Restoration". Probably the most organized and thorough videos I've seen so far on this work. I'm in the middle of this job and wish I watched all of these before I started down this road! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbDretiTvgc

I've worked on Toyotas before and found documentation to be plentiful and thorough. I'm learning it's less so for Nissans, at least for my Pathfinder. So this is nice to find.

[Pathyj1]

Help please. I made it this far in the disassembly and realized I don’t have this replacement hose. What’s the part number?

Here are some diagrams but this particular hose does not shown up… https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/oem-nis ... &filter=()

[mdmellott]

It looks like that preformed hose (02187-31023) has been discontinued and replaced by a cut to length vacuum line hose (B2320-AU370). The original part was replaced by another discontinued preformed hose (02187-33123). In those part descriptions I see "L=100S/#A8761-M4901". When I look up part number A8761-M4901, I see that it was replaced by B2320-AU370, which is an excessive length of general purpose vacuum hose. I'm sure it is a fine quality hose that can be used to replace many, if not all, of the discontinued preformed vacuum hoses on your engine that have the same ID/OD. Whatever you purchase, to replace that swirl control valve actuator hose with, be sure it is an excellent quality vacuum hose since replacing it again may require you to remove the intake manifold all over again. You will have to try and salvage the retainer clip that is on the original hose you have and reuse it. I've purchase cheap vacuum hose in the past which has deteriorated within a couple of years.

[mdmellott]

I just double checked on my Pathfinder and now think I could be mistaken on that specific part number. The Nissan diagrams are not very clear but this part looks the same. https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/n ... 5=SE;6=AT)
In any event, the hose you are looking for is undoubtedly discontinued but can be replaced with a high quality general purpose vacuum hose.

[Pathyj1]

In any event, the hose you are looking for is undoubtedly discontinued but can be replaced with a high quality general purpose vacuum hose.

Any recommendations for “high quality” vacuum hose? I assume places like Autozone won’t have them. Seems like silicon may be the way to go but can’t tell which to go with. I’m thinking 5’ of 4mm ID

[mdmellott]

I don't have any specific brand in mind but what I have come to realize over the years is that prepackaged lengths of hose tend to be less durable brands than what I have purchased by the foot, taken from a bulk spool. I think it was from O'Reilly Auto Parts I last purchased several feet of vacuum/fuel hose for my Pathfinder. SAE sizes are what you're going to find readily available at auto parts stores. To replace the metric sizes on our Pathfinders (There is no equivalent in SAE sizes) be very selective and do not purchase anything with a larger ID and nothing too much smaller either. I have a tiny piece left over that I used for my vacuum lines which measures 5/32" ID. (Just a hair smaller than 4mm)

[Pathyj1]

I just finished this project! No leaks. All seems good. Took 2 weeks. In case it helps others, here's info to fill in some gaps and help you plan for this. Oh, I have the aluminum valve covers, not plastic.

Work completed
New valve cover gaskets, spark plug seals, and washers
New intake/plenum gaskets
New throttle body gasket
New spark plugs
Fuel injector rebuild
Cooling system
- New rear water hoses
- New rear thermostat
- New coolant sensors
Clean up lots of gunk
No power valve screws since it's been 160k miles and they haven't fallen off yet.

Shopping list
Most from Partsouq, then Nissanpartsdeal.

16175-4W000 Throttle body gasket
14033-4W000 Upper plenum gasket
14033-4W010 Upper plenum gasket
14032-4W00A Lower plenum gasket
14035-38U01 Intake lower gasket (2x)
13270-4W000 Valve cover gasket
13270-2Y510 Valve cover gasket
13268-AD20A Valve cover washers (20x)
13276-31U21 Spark plug tube seals (6x)
11810-31U00 PCV valve
11812-41B00 PCV valve insulator
11826-4W010 Blow by hose to PCV
11826-4W002 Blow by hose 2-curves
11823-4W00A Blow by hose 2-curves largest
13276-AH100 Oil filler o-ring
14055-4P110 Short water hose
14056-4W005 Long C water hose
14056-4W000 Long L water hose
21230-6N20A Thermostat
22630-44B20 Coolant temp sensor
25080-89907 Coolant temp sensor
Uremco 2-6 1 Fuel injector seal kit (Amazon)
22401-5M015 Spark plugs (Ebay)
5' of 4mm inner diameter vacuum hose, mainly for the 1' section on the lower intake that has apparently been discontinued ( Oreilly's, I believe it was a Gates brand)
RTV. I use Toyota FIPG 103 sealant for oil

Purchased but not used
Gaskets would've required a coolant drain and I lost steam. Thermostat came with an o-ring attached, so I didn't need the separate one. Blow-by-hose I was too lazy to locate!

11062-4P100 Water outlet gasket
11062-AL51A Water outlet gasket (2 x)
21049-6N220 Thermostat o-ring
11826-4W005 Blow by hose to pipe assembly

Suggestions
Some are general, some are specific to this work, but I just wanted to share what was helpful for me in case someone is doing this type of thing for the very first time.

1. Watch this series of videos before starting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbDretiTvgc IMHO the most practical and thorough video documentation of this work. Yeah, there's some banter you have to get through!

2. Do short sessions over multiple days. I scrambled to do most of this in a 15-hour day and goofed up, having to go back in a second time. Since I had to order new parts, I was forced to wait and decided to do an hour here and there, one mini-project at a time, and it was so much more pleasant.

3. I believe this order of major parts removal will make it easier to reach certain bolts, such as the bracket in the rear, and remove the valve covers:
a. Big plastic hose to throttle body, not the entire air filter box.
b. Throttle body
c. Upper plenum
d. Upper intake
e. Fuel rail
f. Lower intake
g. Then valve covers last.

4. Don't goop the RTV into the groove of the valve cover gaskets like I did (to prevent it from falling during installation). This is why I had a leak and had to go back in a 2nd time. Instead, carefully apply a little RTV to the SIDE of the gasket itself and let it cure overnight, with some weight on top.

5. Removing the filters inside fuel injectors was tricky. I used the metal screw method, but had to rig a way to carefully pry them out since they were really stuck on there. I can share more details if anyone is interested. And remember to lube up the o-rings before reinstalling. And triple check that every fuel injector, retaining clip, and o-rings look installed correctly!!

6. Have a bolt hole tap ready. As careful as I try to be, I seem to always end up with a couple bolt holes that need a little cleaning up.

7. Bag, organize and label all your fasteners. There's a lot and there were a few situations I was happy I labeled an individual bolt.

8. Tape up every hose and plug you disconnect as a visual clue on what needs to be reconnected. It's pretty obvious, but I always like a little visual help given so many parts being disconnected.

9. Don't worry about coolant spilling everywhere. I just had a towel set up whenever I removed a coolant hose. All were just dribbles.

10. Topside creeper or a platform over the engine will help working along the firewall, especially if you're shorter. I also removed the front wheels and stacked 4 pieces of wood under the front frame rail.

11. Of course, look up the bolt sequence and torque specs for the fuel rail, intake and valve covers.

Hope that helps. Hopefully I don't have to go in there again, but if I do, it's actually not that bad if you take it slow and methodically.