2nd day of having the car.. fearing about my clutch
2nd day of having the car.. fearing about my clutch
Its the second day of having my car... Still not used to the first gear...:'[I am afraid that I might've burn my clutch.. My friend drove it today and he said that theres something wrong with my clutch. Like everytime I shift you hear the shifting sound.. I thought thats normal on every car.. but he said its that I've burned my clutch.. not alot but I've burn a lil bit...clutch is like the biggest concern for me.. because it is not cheap at all...Anyone can give me some suggestion of how to handle this monster better... especially on first gear..? How did you guys overcome it when you guys first start driving it..?
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rg_g35x
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2007 8:28 pm
- Car: 2007 Infiniti G35X Ivory Pearl, Stone Interior
Re: 2nd day of having the car.. fearing about my clutch (jlo0109)
Have you driven a standard transmission before, or is this your first car with a manual? If you're new to driving a manual, then it will likely just take some time to get used to it. If you know somebody that drives a manual, they can likely give you some hints to help out etc.
One way to tell if the clutch is wasted it to drive on the highway in top gear (5th or 6th depending on the car) and floor it. If it revs up quickly, then the clutch is slipping and it's on its way out. Another way is to put the parking brake on hard, and try to start - if the clutch slips (engine turning but you're not going anywhere) then it's slipping as well. Just be careful, as both of these methods can make any damage to the clutch worse if you do it for more than a second or so.
One way to tell if the clutch is wasted it to drive on the highway in top gear (5th or 6th depending on the car) and floor it. If it revs up quickly, then the clutch is slipping and it's on its way out. Another way is to put the parking brake on hard, and try to start - if the clutch slips (engine turning but you're not going anywhere) then it's slipping as well. Just be careful, as both of these methods can make any damage to the clutch worse if you do it for more than a second or so.
Re: 2nd day of having the car.. fearing about my clutch (jlo0109)
PRACTICE ON YOUR FRIEND'S CAR!
it's actually kind of hard to burn out a clutch nowadays. please don't waste an expensive clutch. drive with your friend and have him tell you if you're doing something wrong. don't worry, though. we've all been there.
it's actually kind of hard to burn out a clutch nowadays. please don't waste an expensive clutch. drive with your friend and have him tell you if you're doing something wrong. don't worry, though. we've all been there.
Re: 2nd day of having the car.. fearing about my clutch (jakkalope)
really doubt you fried your clutch in two days. there's a slim possibility your burned it a little if you don't know what you're doing. that will make it grabby as some clutch material may have adhered to the flywheel. this should eventually wear off during normal driving.
clutches have a break in time much like brake pads, and, let's face it, the whole car. check owners manual for break in period and don't hot rod for first 1,000 (whatever it says) miles.
clutch basics i learned at an early age and have always worked for me (i got 160,000 out of one). in no particular order except rule number 1.
rule number 1: don't ride the clutch. when done shifting, take your foot completely off of it! this is non-negotiable if you want your clutch to last. practice it if it doesn't come natural. take foot off in between gears, take foot off if staying in one gear. don't ride your foot on the pedal. ever.
don't use clutch to hold car on a hill. use the brake pedal.
don't smoke the clutch. you can feather it lightly when starting off. your engine should have enough torque you don't need to rev it very high at all to get going in first gear. a good thing to practice is letting the clutch out slowing while engine is idling or just above idle rpm to get a feel for how it engages. once going, just push it in and let it out when shifting between gears. you need to get used to being "one" with the car and you'll develop a feel for how fast to push it in and let it out. it should be a fluid motion. all the way down, all the way up, foot off.
practice using the gas pedal to match engine rpm when down shifting, although this isn't absolutely necessary if you want to use the engine to slow down.
there's a slim chance you have a factory defective clutch problem or air in the hydraulic lines. also, the clutch pedal may need adjustment. there is a top play adjustment that is very important. it should have been done, but during break in may need to be reset. essentially, it is the amount of free travel the clutch pedal can move before it starts to exert pressure on the clutch pad. usually, there is a turnbuckle under the dash. normal, top play is at least 3/4". maybe more or less. there is a spec for this and it should be pretty closely followed.
post back if you're still having trouble.
clutches have a break in time much like brake pads, and, let's face it, the whole car. check owners manual for break in period and don't hot rod for first 1,000 (whatever it says) miles.
clutch basics i learned at an early age and have always worked for me (i got 160,000 out of one). in no particular order except rule number 1.
rule number 1: don't ride the clutch. when done shifting, take your foot completely off of it! this is non-negotiable if you want your clutch to last. practice it if it doesn't come natural. take foot off in between gears, take foot off if staying in one gear. don't ride your foot on the pedal. ever.
don't use clutch to hold car on a hill. use the brake pedal.
don't smoke the clutch. you can feather it lightly when starting off. your engine should have enough torque you don't need to rev it very high at all to get going in first gear. a good thing to practice is letting the clutch out slowing while engine is idling or just above idle rpm to get a feel for how it engages. once going, just push it in and let it out when shifting between gears. you need to get used to being "one" with the car and you'll develop a feel for how fast to push it in and let it out. it should be a fluid motion. all the way down, all the way up, foot off.
practice using the gas pedal to match engine rpm when down shifting, although this isn't absolutely necessary if you want to use the engine to slow down.
there's a slim chance you have a factory defective clutch problem or air in the hydraulic lines. also, the clutch pedal may need adjustment. there is a top play adjustment that is very important. it should have been done, but during break in may need to be reset. essentially, it is the amount of free travel the clutch pedal can move before it starts to exert pressure on the clutch pad. usually, there is a turnbuckle under the dash. normal, top play is at least 3/4". maybe more or less. there is a spec for this and it should be pretty closely followed.
post back if you're still having trouble.
Re: 2nd day of having the car.. fearing about my clutch (ampsucker)
wow..... thank you so much for the replying.One thing I don't get, what do you mean by riding the clutch? Like letting go half way only while gasing? I thought I was suppose to do that at first gear or else the car is gonna start shaking and and that damages the clutch .. right? On 3rd 4th 5th and 6th gears, I just let go like half of the clutch for like .5 second and then I let go the whole clutch.. does that consider riding the clutch as well??
Re: 2nd day of having the car.. fearing about my clutch (jlo0109)
i think there are two different concepts at work here.
first, i think of riding the clutch as anytime your foot is on the clutch when you aren't actually pushing it in or letting it out during shifting. when you get in the habit of riding the clutch (letting your foot stay on the pedal in between shifts or worse, just when driving around) you take some of the pressure off the pressure plate which allows the clutch pad to slip a bit. very bad if you want your clutch disk to last a long time. also bad on the throw out bearing which has to rotate whenever you have your foot on the pedal.
when first staring off in first gear, you're right about letting it out half way, or feathering it, to get started. again, here it shouldn't be necessary to rev the engine much. you're still in the break-in period. save the hot rodding for after ;-)
when shifting between higher gears, i don't recall ever feeling the need to let the clutch out half way. it should be a single, positive, fluid motion. so, for example, from 2nd gear, wind up the engine rpm a bit, push in the clutch, let off the gas while shifting to 3rd, then let out the clutch while timing the engine rpm drop to match the new gear. at the same time, give it a little gas to get going in third.
i know it sounds complicated to read, but it really should be a natural, fluid, motion. it's the timing that you have to get used to. you should be able to let the clutch out quickly and smoothly after all gears except first and there shouldn't be any noticeable shock to the drivetrain, tires squeeling or anything like that. just nice, smooth, acceleration. let the engine pull through the gear, nice smooth shift to next gear, pull through gear, etc.
just takes some practice. first, perfect smooth shifting and rpm matching during break-in period. then work on more advanced stuff later on once you get a good feel for the car. you'll get the hang of it. ;-)
btw, wish i was you. sounds like fun....
i learned to drive stick on an old van. it was "three on the tree". you shifted through the gears on the steering column instead of down on the console between the seats. i stalled it out quite a few times until i got the hang of it. i also vividly remember test driving my first 5-speed with my dad. it was a 77 280z. i was getting into a corner and wanted to shift down from fifth to fourth, but grabbed second instead on accident. i let off the clutch a bit to fast and the rear tires chirped and i'm pretty sure my dad pinched a hole in the passenger seat.
anyway, just take it easy and have fun learning. you might try riding with someone with good technique and watch how they manage the timing of everything.
first, i think of riding the clutch as anytime your foot is on the clutch when you aren't actually pushing it in or letting it out during shifting. when you get in the habit of riding the clutch (letting your foot stay on the pedal in between shifts or worse, just when driving around) you take some of the pressure off the pressure plate which allows the clutch pad to slip a bit. very bad if you want your clutch disk to last a long time. also bad on the throw out bearing which has to rotate whenever you have your foot on the pedal.
when first staring off in first gear, you're right about letting it out half way, or feathering it, to get started. again, here it shouldn't be necessary to rev the engine much. you're still in the break-in period. save the hot rodding for after ;-)
when shifting between higher gears, i don't recall ever feeling the need to let the clutch out half way. it should be a single, positive, fluid motion. so, for example, from 2nd gear, wind up the engine rpm a bit, push in the clutch, let off the gas while shifting to 3rd, then let out the clutch while timing the engine rpm drop to match the new gear. at the same time, give it a little gas to get going in third.
i know it sounds complicated to read, but it really should be a natural, fluid, motion. it's the timing that you have to get used to. you should be able to let the clutch out quickly and smoothly after all gears except first and there shouldn't be any noticeable shock to the drivetrain, tires squeeling or anything like that. just nice, smooth, acceleration. let the engine pull through the gear, nice smooth shift to next gear, pull through gear, etc.
just takes some practice. first, perfect smooth shifting and rpm matching during break-in period. then work on more advanced stuff later on once you get a good feel for the car. you'll get the hang of it. ;-)
btw, wish i was you. sounds like fun....
i learned to drive stick on an old van. it was "three on the tree". you shifted through the gears on the steering column instead of down on the console between the seats. i stalled it out quite a few times until i got the hang of it. i also vividly remember test driving my first 5-speed with my dad. it was a 77 280z. i was getting into a corner and wanted to shift down from fifth to fourth, but grabbed second instead on accident. i let off the clutch a bit to fast and the rear tires chirped and i'm pretty sure my dad pinched a hole in the passenger seat.
anyway, just take it easy and have fun learning. you might try riding with someone with good technique and watch how they manage the timing of everything.
Re: 2nd day of having the car.. fearing about my clutch (ampsucker)
here's an article that may go a long way toward helping you understand what is going on with your clutch.
http://blogs.edmunds.com/roadtests/Comments/959#cm
read the comments, too. they help explain the specifics of the clutch mechanism and things you might consider doing aftermarket if you do burn up the original.
sorry, i can't give you any real advice on this since the nearest 6MT to me is 4 hours away at the dealer in st. louis. i really want to drive one myself and see if this is a real problem or something that may go away after break-in.
good luck!
http://blogs.edmunds.com/roadtests/Comments/959#cm
read the comments, too. they help explain the specifics of the clutch mechanism and things you might consider doing aftermarket if you do burn up the original.
sorry, i can't give you any real advice on this since the nearest 6MT to me is 4 hours away at the dealer in st. louis. i really want to drive one myself and see if this is a real problem or something that may go away after break-in.
good luck!
The clutch on the 350z/G35 has a horrible feel. I've driven a standard for years, and this car made me look like a clutch n00b! However, there is a mod you can do to adjust the clutch engagement point. After doing the mod, I love my clutch!
zerothread/244673
zerothread/244673
Re: (joe603)
thanks for the link. i read through it. what they are describing is exactly the adjustment i was talking about to adjust top- or end-play. there is a turn buckle on the clutch push rod where it goes into the clutch master cylinder.
always make sure you keep at least the end play shown in the service manual. you may have to contact your dealer service dept for this info. it's ok to have more endplay to the point you can still disengage the clutch when pushing the pedal all the way down. as mentioned, you are looking for the sweet spot where the clutch disk graps in the middle of pedal travel yet is fully clamped when the clutch is released and fully disengaged when the clutch pedal is depressed. i think the approach they suggest of listening to the sound of the tranmission shaft and bearing assembly is pretty good. not very technical, but practical.
yes, it's ok to adjust a hydraulic clutch this way. almost all modern clutches are hydraulic and you have to have a way to adjust them as the clutch disks wear over the life.
on a personal note, i'm really glad to hear this may just be an adjustment issue. i'm pretty sure i'm one of the 10% of buyers who will end up with the 6MT, so i definitely want a car with a good feeling clutch. it can totally make or break the whole driving experience!
always make sure you keep at least the end play shown in the service manual. you may have to contact your dealer service dept for this info. it's ok to have more endplay to the point you can still disengage the clutch when pushing the pedal all the way down. as mentioned, you are looking for the sweet spot where the clutch disk graps in the middle of pedal travel yet is fully clamped when the clutch is released and fully disengaged when the clutch pedal is depressed. i think the approach they suggest of listening to the sound of the tranmission shaft and bearing assembly is pretty good. not very technical, but practical.
yes, it's ok to adjust a hydraulic clutch this way. almost all modern clutches are hydraulic and you have to have a way to adjust them as the clutch disks wear over the life.
on a personal note, i'm really glad to hear this may just be an adjustment issue. i'm pretty sure i'm one of the 10% of buyers who will end up with the 6MT, so i definitely want a car with a good feeling clutch. it can totally make or break the whole driving experience!
Re: (joe603)
Lol.. I am afraid I am gonna eff it up... Is it easy to do?
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telcoman
- Posts: 5762
- Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2006 11:30 am
- Car: Tesla 2022 Model Y, 2016 Q70 Bye 2012 G37S 6 MT w Nav 94444 mi bye 2006 Infiniti G35 Sedan 6 MT @171796 mi.
- Location: Central NJ
Re: (jlo0109)
Hi jo0109
I've been driving manual transmissions for over 40 years and got 200k miles out of the clutch on a 1980 Diesel Rabbit. Here is a little trick that you can try while you are learning to shift.When a light turns green and you are in first gear see if you can take off letting out the clutch with the tach staying below 1000 rpm until you are fully engaged. Do not race the engine while taking off in first gear from a dead stop. Also, if you are going to be sitting a few minutes waiting for a light to change, put the vehicle in neutral & release the clutch. Holding the clutch down for long periods of time can cause the throwout bearing to wear prematurely.
Telcoman
I've been driving manual transmissions for over 40 years and got 200k miles out of the clutch on a 1980 Diesel Rabbit. Here is a little trick that you can try while you are learning to shift.When a light turns green and you are in first gear see if you can take off letting out the clutch with the tach staying below 1000 rpm until you are fully engaged. Do not race the engine while taking off in first gear from a dead stop. Also, if you are going to be sitting a few minutes waiting for a light to change, put the vehicle in neutral & release the clutch. Holding the clutch down for long periods of time can cause the throwout bearing to wear prematurely.
Telcoman
Re: (jlo0109)
Yes, just follow the link I attached in the above post and print the pics for reference. The hardest thing for me was to get my big *** hands in the tight space to turn the nut holding the bolt in place. Once the nut is loosened, turn the bolt towards the drivers side door. (I would say clock-ways, but if your up-side-down, it would be counter-clock-ways )jlo0109 wrote:Lol.. I am afraid I am gonna eff it up... Is it easy to do?
DON"T FORGET TO RE-TIGHTEN THE NUT!!!!
I only did it 2, complete turns...some have gone more, but that's up to you. After you've adjusted it, check to see if the clutch is engaging/disengaging properly. The best test is to listen to the clutch chatter while the pedal is up; now depress the clutch. The chatter SHOULD stop. If it doesn't, you've adjusted too much.
Also, make sure you can go into every gear while the clutch is depressed (engine running).
I recommend this mod 1000%!!!
Re: 2nd day of having the car.. fearing about my clutch (jlo0109)
I HIGHLY DOUBT IT that you burned your clutch. even if you did, you couldnt possible mess it up that BAD in only two dayus. If there is a problem with your clutch after 2 days, then it has to be a defect and the dealer should take a look at it
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roofrecon.com
- Posts: 100
- Joined: Tue Jan 09, 2007 9:49 am
- Car: g35s sedan 2007
Re: 2nd day of having the car.. fearing about my clutch (jlo0109)
here's a great way to teach yourself how to drive stick. Take her to a parking lot..a flat one that is. Engage the clutch and take your foot off the brake and gas. The car should not be moving. SLOWLY ...SLOWLY release the clutch without touching the gas ...and never touch the gas. The clutch will grip and you'll start moving...do that 10 times over and you'll learn how it grabs, and where. Then start adding a little gas in 1st gear and as you get to 2nd and 3rd you can let the clutch out much faster. TRY THAT!
Re: (joe603)
"The best test is to listen to the clutch chatter while the pedal is up; now depress the clutch. The chatter SHOULD stop. If it doesn't, you've adjusted too much."
yeah.... I feel like I reading some poem on this part :'[
any easier way you can explain it?? :]
yeah.... I feel like I reading some poem on this part :'[
any easier way you can explain it?? :]
Have your car running in an enclosed space, like a garage. In neutral with the clutch pedal up, you should hear a slight chatter. When you press the clutch down, the chatter should go away. This is a normally operating clutch. Now, after you adjust the bolt, your moving the clutch engagement point...do it to much and the clutch will stay engaged even when the pedal is depressed. The chatter test will verify if the clutch is engaged or not when the pedal is pressed.
Re: (jlo0109)
hmmm lol I am too afraid of adjusting it myself... anyone live in CA near Rowland Heights and Hacienda Heights? I'll pay some $$ for someone to do it for me... And also someone can check my car for me.. Anyone?
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LaxFather4
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 6:52 am
- Car: 2006 Infiniti G35 MT6
Re: 2nd day of having the car.. fearing about my clutch (jlo0109)
I am not sure if this will help but some FYI:
I own a 06 G35 MT6 coupe. From day 1 the transmission/clutch made alot of growling noise, slipping the clutch, etc.. Have had it back to the dealer numerous times and 3 trannies later, still have the noise (The dealer wold not replace the pressure plate or clutch, but would swap out the trannie as warrenty work!). I have the original trannie back in it (other 2 were factory rebuilts), but the dealer mod'd it by putting synthetic fluid in it. That helped alot, but really stiff in cold weather.
Now have 22K miles on it. Have come to driving it with the Traction control button off (put up with yellow light, what a pain!), but it helps alot. Better launches, ET's, etc. Your not having the rear brakes cycled by the TC system if your late on the clutch or slipping it a little. I would say the TC system is overly sensitive, but needed in the rain, otherwise, you can sit there and spin up through 3rd. Now have come to find through forums and calls to Infiniti Service in CA, that this has always been a problem on their manual G35's (Z350's? not sure), Been several dealer mods, but some have it worse then others. Reportedly it is a poorly designed throw-out bearing assembly (one fix is to regrease it?), but you'd think that would be an easy fix for the factory?
The 245/40Rx19, 225/40Rx19 Bridgestones (that are finally wearing out, so first is replacing them) would not think are putting more pressure back on the clutch assembly faking out the TC system? Thinking out loud here.
Enough of this stock clutch setup, let me dig around and see if anyone has any suggestions on an improved setup? Only 22K on a clutch is a bit weak. I've seen alot on exhausts, intakes (yes, looking to order those too, I'm hooked, need more ponies), etc.. but so far nothing on trannie mods, etc.. Any clues? Thanks!
I own a 06 G35 MT6 coupe. From day 1 the transmission/clutch made alot of growling noise, slipping the clutch, etc.. Have had it back to the dealer numerous times and 3 trannies later, still have the noise (The dealer wold not replace the pressure plate or clutch, but would swap out the trannie as warrenty work!). I have the original trannie back in it (other 2 were factory rebuilts), but the dealer mod'd it by putting synthetic fluid in it. That helped alot, but really stiff in cold weather.
Now have 22K miles on it. Have come to driving it with the Traction control button off (put up with yellow light, what a pain!), but it helps alot. Better launches, ET's, etc. Your not having the rear brakes cycled by the TC system if your late on the clutch or slipping it a little. I would say the TC system is overly sensitive, but needed in the rain, otherwise, you can sit there and spin up through 3rd. Now have come to find through forums and calls to Infiniti Service in CA, that this has always been a problem on their manual G35's (Z350's? not sure), Been several dealer mods, but some have it worse then others. Reportedly it is a poorly designed throw-out bearing assembly (one fix is to regrease it?), but you'd think that would be an easy fix for the factory?
The 245/40Rx19, 225/40Rx19 Bridgestones (that are finally wearing out, so first is replacing them) would not think are putting more pressure back on the clutch assembly faking out the TC system? Thinking out loud here.
Enough of this stock clutch setup, let me dig around and see if anyone has any suggestions on an improved setup? Only 22K on a clutch is a bit weak. I've seen alot on exhausts, intakes (yes, looking to order those too, I'm hooked, need more ponies), etc.. but so far nothing on trannie mods, etc.. Any clues? Thanks!