280-300whp on 10lbs possible?

[acidronin06]

hi guys. this is my 1st post so please be kind to me if i got some of my info wrong. I picked up a 92 5spd hatch that needed a transmission and some bodywork for 500$ with 240k on it. I have done all of my research lurking between this forum and ka-t.org. Here is my build plan and I want you guys professional input im buying a junkyard 94 ka24de and plan a full rebuild with a 0.20 bore, port polish and 3 angle valve job, ross or bc pistons(8.8 or 9.0 c/r) ???)arp 10mm studs, Brian Crower BC6219 rods, clevite main and rod bearings, full felpro gasket set. that is going to be stage 1 since at 240k im sure my motor is going to take a dump soon. stage 2 will consist of a jwt rom tune with a safc2 and a uego wideband for fine tuning, will 370cc's flow enough? 2.75-3.00in exhaust, t3/74 50trim turbo with a 48 a/r. should i use an internal or external gate? an msd M46-2225 inline fuel pump. i used one to feed my supercharged 454 nova so i know its big enough. msd 6al ignition box, pulse plugs(www.pulstar.com/) 31x11x3 intercooler, i already installed an xtr stage 3 6 puck clutch rated at around 325-340 whp. eletric fan, koyo rad. and either a 300zx or q45 tb and maf. think i can pull off 280-300 hp at around 10lbs with this setup? if not how much boost do you think i can run with this setup? any advise on different parts i should use? Ill try and get some pics of the car posted by friday. thx in advance for any and all advice

[WDRacing]

It's very hard to read your post. But it seems to be fairly complete. Try not making one big paragraph and using caps at the beginning of ALL the sentences...lol. This is a tech forum, not Gen Chat...so better grammar will yield better results.

The amount of power you make will be directly related to the tune. If you have the air fuel just right and the timing tuned right, you'll make 300whp with 10 psi.

WD

[GTR PrYdE]

Welcome to Nico!

-stock tb will suit your goals better

-can that msd pump hold 40+ fuel pressure? carb pumps are way different that injected pumps.

-370cc's max around ~250whp, go as big as you think you'll need for the future.

-280-300 might be on the high side, but def possible. It takes some engines 12 or 14psi for 300whp, others, 10psi...

Good luck

[acidronin06]

Sorry for the botchy first post. the msd pump can hold well over 40psi.

I ran a similar one on my TPI 383 stroker camaro at 65psi.

If you don't think I can pull 280 hp at 10psi do you think my build could run 12-14 psi and still be a reliable DD?

I go to a race track 2 weekends a month by where I live and my buddy just bought an 09 sti and I would like to keep up.

[WDRacing]

The agreed upon safe number is 350whp. The KA can gen that much power reliably for a long time. As far as what boost, that all depends on what turbo and a few other things. Just get a set of 550's and run 14 psi of boost. With a standard T3/TO4E turbo you'll be over 300whp. In the S Chassis thats enough to provide many smiles

[GODCHSR]

The agreed upon safe number is 350whp. The KA can gen that much power reliably for a long time. As far as what boost, that all depends on what turbo and a few other things. Just get a set of 550's and run 14 psi of boost. With a standard T3/TO4E turbo you'll be over 300whp. In the S Chassis thats enough to provide many smiles

Unless I am misreading here he's talking about a fully built motor which can obviously hold MUCH more power than he's asking.

12-14 psi would only be the beginning if you really are building the block. More like 20+ psi and MUCH more WHP/WTQ.

I thought 350 whp was a topend # for a stock block???

[WDRacing]

I thought 350 whp was a topend # for a stock block???

Yeah, I didn't read the whole post because I almost had a seizure...lol. 350whp is the daily driver safe bet IMO. Max power is at 450ish, the rods bend after that. All depending on the tune of course

With a built motor the sky is the limit really. Your limiting factors become octane and turbo size. The T3/TO4E makes a solid 420whp at 20 psi but starts to peter off at 480 or so. Then you start getting into bigger turbo's and more lag. 480whp is almost undriveable in the s-chassis anyway

[GODCHSR]

Yeah, I didn't read the whole post because I almost had a seizure...lol. 350whp is the daily driver safe bet IMO. Max power is at 450ish, the rods bend after that. All depending on the tune of course

With a built motor the sky is the limit really. Your limiting factors become octane and turbo size. The T3/TO4E makes a solid 420whp at 20 psi but starts to peter off at 480 or so. Then you start getting into bigger turbo's and more lag. 480whp is almost undriveable in the s-chassis anyway

LOL... yeah 480 is a lot but I KNOW you're kidding.

I think with a standalone system you could just about DD and Drag the car simultaneously.

[WDRacing]

Not kidding really...

Most people won't have suspension and grip to support over 450whp. That and most have never driven a car with that much power. Most Americans suck behind the wheel, they just THINK they don't. Sad but true...

WD

[GODCHSR]

True... Gotta build it all, not just power.

I got to drive a Camaro with approximately 450 whp and that was AMAZING!

I've also been in a 900+ WHP Honda, but not driving. That was not quite as scary but when it starts to pull it PULLS.

[hannibal]

You'll need a larger MAF, likely from a Z32. I wouldnt worry about a TB until you do a new intake manifold.

With a built motor, I'd choose a 0.63 A/R so you could run more boost. Isnt the bigger exhaust is better at 14+ psi?

[acidronin06]

I plan on running either Z32 or q45 maf.

The entire reason of my build is to make as much power as possible on as little boost as possible with as little lag as possible.

Thats why I selected a 48a/r instead of 63.

I have no intention of running past 15psi ever.. Ill probably run 10-12 for DD and 15 at the track

Also can anyone recommend a decent set of cams? I am currently planing on either the 96 altima cams or BC stage 2 cams

[GODCHSR]

Depends on whether you're prepared to swap out the retainers and springs I guess.

[WDRacing]

No need to swap the springs or retainers so long as the rpm isn't increased.

[GODCHSR]

So you can run stage 2 cams with stock springs?

I guess BC is trying to get a double sale???

[DaniMike]

Most get the better cams so they can rev higher, so the springs and whatnot become very necessary to purchase. If you don't plan on making your KA rev-happy, you don't really NEED new springs/retainers (as long as yours are in good shape).

Correct me if I am wrong, but this is my thoughts on it. GL

Michael

[DevilMB3017]

I have BC Stage Two cams.

I have the stock springs/retainers/seats. I did choose to swap out the valves with new, OEM size though.

You don't need any special machining for them, nor any other products like cam gears, etc.

I bought them to move my power band to where I have boost, not to increase my highest possible RPM or anything. This way I make more power inside my power band, I don't really care about low-end power (below 3K on the track) or super-high end power (above 6.5K)
Modified by DevilMB3017 at 7:35 AM 8/31/2009

[D-UNIT]

I have BC Stage Two cams.

I have the stock springs/retainers/seats. I did choose to swap out the valves with new, OEM though.

Do you mean OEM size? Because in your sig you have Ferra (Ferrea?) valves.
Modified by D-UNIT at 10:07 PM 8/30/2009

[DevilMB3017]

Do you mean OEM size? Because in your sig you have Ferra (Ferrea?) valves.

Sorry about that, I went back and edited my post.

I have OEM-sized Ferrea valves.

(I also had to edit my sig, never realized I spelled it wrong there, thanks!)