25 questions and advise...

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
synergy
Posts: 144
Joined: Sun Jun 07, 2009 3:59 am
Car: s14 rb25 s1

Post

I got an s14 swaped rb25 with supposedly weisco forged pistons.

But anyways on to the real issues. I hacked into the engine the other day with some friends about 6 hours of work between two people. We noticed a few things that we absolutely hate about this engine. VAC lines galore holy crap... half the time we spent was taking off those corroded spring clamps and getting the hoses off. The worst part was the front and rear of the intake mani.

So now my question. How can i reduce the number of them. I see in everyones engine bay pics they have almost no lines on their aftermarket isis or greddy or freddy intakes how?

Second thing i noticed that scares me is the wiring from the driverside which im pretty sure is supposed to enter through that triangle shaped grommet was routed over my tire? Is this standard practice or a hack job...

Thirdly I have a blitz boost cont molded into my ash tray. And i apparently need to hook it up. while looking in my engine bay i found what looks like the boost controller from the stock r33... It is black and white has 3 plugs on it but its not connected. Is there a way to connect this? I dont have an instructions so im clueless.

fourth. I have hoses that goes from intake mani to valve cover then to my other valve cover and then a breather. I have been told by my friend that i cant leave it with only a breather and it needs to be plugged into the intake again. (which has a open spot for it which im sure is making me lean out hard). But should i reconnect this or leave it be and plug the hole?

Thanks for any answers on any one of my silly silly questions.


DrifterProdigy85
Posts: 1817
Joined: Sat Jul 02, 2005 7:42 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx (Zenki Onevia)

Post

I removed my old vaccuum lines and replaced them with new ones to the devices that require them and then plugged whatever holes were left open. Cleaned things up a bit. As far as the crankcase vent setup, the one running from the intake manifold to the valve cover is the PCV. You will want to leave that hooked up the way it is unless doing some custom oil catch can setup. Then you have the hose that joins the 2 valve covers together. And then you should have a hose/metal tube running to the intake pipe for crankcase ventilation. Another way to run that is to get rid of where it hooks up to the intake pipe and run a hose to a catch can and then have a breather on the catch can also. This will keep it vented and should contain any blow by in the can instead of running it back through the intake.

synergy
Posts: 144
Joined: Sun Jun 07, 2009 3:59 am
Car: s14 rb25 s1

Post

Thank you!

Now what vac lines can i plug up? Or is it based on having an aftermarket ecu?

User avatar
Coolwhip
Vendor
Posts: 3138
Joined: Fri Feb 06, 2004 7:29 am
Car: RB26 Raw Brokerage War Machine
Location: Orlando, FL
Contact:

Post

for the PCV question:

zer...ur-rb

synergy
Posts: 144
Joined: Sun Jun 07, 2009 3:59 am
Car: s14 rb25 s1

Post

thanks coolwhip. I guess i need a catch can then ehh.

Why is this system specificly needed? Im guessing to suck the oil that is blown by the pistons so it doesnt over flow the head? And if it wasnt in place would i get valve float? I didnt have it routed correctly and have valve tick now.Maybe this is why?
Modified by synergy at 2:11 PM 11/24/2009

DrifterProdigy85
Posts: 1817
Joined: Sat Jul 02, 2005 7:42 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx (Zenki Onevia)

Post

The things i have vacuum hookups are

FPRBoost GaugeBoost ControllerBOVBrake Cylinder

Some of these you can T together. Others need there own source. BOV and Brake Cylinder should have its own source since they rely alot on vacuum to function properly. I think i have my boost gauge and boost controller T'd together. I like to give my FPR its own source too so theres no chance of fuel pressure issues.


Return to “RB20DET / RB25DET / RB26DETT Forum”