245/35/17 on the G?

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gwoods
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This Saturday night I lost at the track to a 2008 Mustang GT 5spd. The car is allegedly stock except for an Injen intake manifold.

Even in the hot weather THIS GT ran a 13.6 at 103 mph? I looked under the hood after the race and could not find a nitrous line. The mufflers were stock?

So all I can figure out is maybe the car had a tuner, gears/tires and cam. This guys 13.6 would be a 13.3 at sea level. The car magazines have been getting 13.9's out of the GT's they test. So I KNOW something had been done to this GT.

I want to be able to beat it next time I see it at the track but am unwilling to make any perminate performance mods to the G. I also have 6 Mustang Bullett 17x9' rims that bolt on my car.

I'm thinking the easiest way to get this Mustang next time is too swap a set or 245/35/17 tires on 2 of these rims and run them at the track. My 235/45/17 tires are 25" tall the 245/35/17 tires would be 23' tall.

What do you all think?

Am I going to have ABS issues?

Thanks,

Jeff


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Beancooker
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Well, you won't have any ABS issues.

As far as his car, he probably had a power programmer, where he could change his A/F ratio, and shift points. I was talking to a guy at my track who was running high 12's with test pipes and a programmer in a 2007 GT Crustang. Nothing else.

235/45/17Sidewall 4.2"Radius 12.7"Diameter 25.3"Circumfrence 79.6"Revs/mile 796

245/35/17Sidewall 3.4"Radius 11.9"Diameter 23.8"Circumfrence 74.6"Revs/mile 849

A few things to think about.

You have at automatic, right?

When I ran the 1/4 mile I was running a 275/40/18. I was just under 7k RPM's when I crossed the 1/4 mile mark.

Where are you when you cross the 1/4 mile mark. If you're still in 3rd gear, how much is left on the tach before rev limiter kicks in?

Do you really want to be upshifting at the end of the 1/4 mile?

If you have already had to shift into 4th gear, then the smaller diameter tire won't hurt. It will speed you up. However if it were me, I would throw some 275/35/17, or 275/30/17's on. It will still lower your final gearing, and give much better traction. As I am sure you know, when lowering your gearing, you will need the better traction.

275/35/17Sidewall 3.8"Radius 12.3"Diameter 24.6"Circumfrence 72.2"Revs/mile 821

275/30/17Sidewall 3.2"Radius 11.7"Diameter 23.5Circumfrence 73.8Revs/mile 858


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gwoods
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Man if I could find some 275/30/17's! Find me a manufacture that makes a set and they will be on the car the next time I head to the track!

I have 6 17x9 Mustang Bullett rims with 6 Kumho V710's mounted on them 275/40/17. Due to the weight of the rims my car is not any faster with the 275/40/17's on the back.

2 of the tires have about 50% tread2 have about 25% of the tread2 have about 10% of the tread



275's on the back, 235's on the front


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Beancooker
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I'll keep an eye out. A quick search revealed a size that isn't made. Too bad you don't have 18" wheels.

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also take your spare out and stuff like that... I think you should put a nitro kit in and kick his ***! Changing the gears on the G35 would cost a lot and then it would rev too high on the highway!

DJ

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gwoods
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I sold 2 complete nitrous kits both with heaters one with a remote bottle opener and a wide band 02 sensor shortly after buying the G. Nitrous is great on a car you don't have to drive everyday.

shorter tires = shorter overall gearing

245/35/17 is the widest shortest tire I can find for a 17" rim
Beancooker wrote:I'll keep an eye out. A quick search revealed a size that isn't made. Too bad you don't have 18" wheels.
WRONG WRONG WRONG the extra inch in wheel would eat any gain in aspect ratio but your on the right track! Too bad I don't have 16 or 15 inch wheels :-)

I've been watching Ebay for a set of 15x9 or 15x10 5 lug Mustang rims. If I could find 15x10 I could do 275/35/15

Back spacing and offset would be tricky, I may have to grind down the caliper to make it fit ect ect.

I think the 245/35/17 is a better option it is 23.8" tall and the 275/35/15 is 23" tall. 275 is plenty of tire for the race track but it might be too much tire for the drag strip.

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gwoods
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Beancooker wrote:You have at automatic, right?

When I ran the 1/4 mile I was running a 275/40/18. I was just under 7k RPM's when I crossed the 1/4 mile mark.

Where are you when you cross the 1/4 mile mark. If you're still in 3rd gear, how much is left on the tach before rev limiter kicks in?

Do you really want to be upshifting at the end of the 1/4 mile?
with the stock tires 225/55/17 I was making it through the 1/4 mile in 3rd gear. When I put on the 235/45/17's I am shifting into 4th about 2 tenths before I trip the beams.

My automatic shifts so fast the gear change doesn't really matter. I tried shifting manually and holding the car in 3rd gear but going up to 8000 rpm fuel cut out and it runs a faster time shifting into 4th.

On my ram it was easy... 3.92 gears, 325/45/17 drag radial for the track and 295/45/18 hankooks for the street. Without nitrous I crossed the finish line at the top end of 3rd gear.

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Beancooker
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gwoods wrote:
WRONG WRONG WRONG the extra inch in wheel would eat any gain in aspect ratio but your on the right track! Too bad I don't have 16 or 15 inch wheels :-)
But an 18" wheel has more aptions for aspect ratio.

Go with the 275/35/17's. I think it will be your best option, considering price/availability.

Now I am wondering if part of the reason that Sedans are "faster" than the Coupes, is because you have smaller tires=lower final gearing.

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Time for some forged rims!!!

Remind me why you're one of the most active track members here on NICO, but you don't want to Mod your G

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You can only take magazine times with a grain of salt. If the guy is a good driver and pulling above par 60 ft times, then that time is far fetched by no means. What was his 60ft time compared to yours. Most of the time drag racing is won by the 60ft time if both cars are similar. 1-2 tenths of your 60ft is going to double the amount off your time. I have seen the difference over and over. Plus the fact the GT is no slouch, 300hp & 320 ft lbs. Thats almost 60 more ft lbs than a 07 g35 sedan and a vehicle that is similar in weight.

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Jeff   13.6 is easy for a 05 to 08 GT stang with an intake and a tune.A friend  runs 12.9 with an intake,tune,underdrive pulleys,exhaust,and drag radials.The ford smallblock has a lot of potential with a few bolt-ons, because fords stock tune is mediocre.

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gwoods
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Beancooker, biggest and shortest tire I can find is 245/35/17, I have 275/40/17 kumho V710s.
oldandslow wrote:Jeff   13.6 is easy for a 05 to 08 GT stang with an intake and a tune.A friend  runs 12.9 with an intake,tune,underdrive pulleys,exhaust,and drag radials.The ford smallblock has a lot of potential with a few bolt-ons, because fords stock tune is mediocre.
LESSON LEARNED!!
Sentientbydesign wrote:Time for some forged rims!!!

Remind me why you're one of the most active track members here on NICO, but you don't want to Mod your G
I should have kept my Ram The mod bug is a problem for me, once I start I don't stop. Spending $1000 a month on mods WAS the norm. I made a deal with the boss and bought a car 'I' agreed was fast enough stock LOL

My 60' time was .218 the Stang pulled a .281 LOL. I had a best 60' Saturday night of .125 and a career best of .02* that should have been a red light.modding your daily driver is problematic anyway, I spent a month sharing the Suckoia with my wife while I rebuilt the transmission and replaced a cylinder connecting rod on the Hemi.


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Beancooker
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gwoods wrote: I made a deal with the boss and bought a car 'I' agreed was fast enough stock
So you did the same as I did, and lied to your wife when buying the G...

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Sentientbydesign
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As much as I agree... I don't lol.

I see where you're coming from. I would be mad at myself for spending so much on mods too.

I'd consider doing a piggy bank. $100/mo for the car, $100/mo for something important (retirement, vacation, renovating the kitchen). Start a REALISTIC list of mods and put them in order of importance to you. Be strong and realize that you're strengthening yourself by exercising restraint.

Even better would be only buying mods that DEFINITELY improve your fuel bill. Then you can really feel good about yourself.


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Beancooker
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Sentientbydesign wrote:Even better would be only buying mods that DEFINITELY improve your fuel bill. Then you can really feel good about yourself.
There are very few of those that exist, or that exist that I want.

I'm starting on suspension now. Car has decent power, but would be nice to be able to put it to great use.

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gwoods
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Sentientbydesign wrote:As much as I agree... I don't lol.

I see where you're coming from. I would be mad at myself for spending so much on mods too.

I'd consider doing a piggy bank. $100/mo for the car, $100/mo for something important (retirement, vacation, renovating the kitchen). Start a REALISTIC list of mods and put them in order of importance to you. Be strong and realize that you're strengthening yourself by exercising restraint.

Even better would be only buying mods that DEFINITELY improve your fuel bill. Then you can really feel good about yourself.
There were over $10,000 in mods to the hemi when I traded it mods take me someplace I don't want to go.

I get re embursed for mileage so I do not care about it.

Currently $950 goes into different retirement accounts.

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I think you have confused the 60' time with your reaction time. If you pulled a .125 60', you are one bad mf'er!!

A good 60' time on RWD car on street tires would be a 1.8-1.9. On slicks or drag radials a 1.7 should be had.

A bad 60' time would be anything over 2.1-2.2.

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gwoods
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I cut a 1.8 in the hemi on M&H Racemasters

your right those are reaction times I'm tired from feeding a wee little babby


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