240sx with severe rust, any options?

[keep_it_movin]

ok i have a 91 240,the engine has about 193k on it,but runs grate,just a bit loud.ok here is the big problem,the hole floor bored is prity rusted. it completly rusted away under the driver and passenger seat braket,so both seats lean to the side and if u look at my car from the side it is extremely obveouse.also the part of the frame is rusted strait threw. so what i wanted to now is putting a new floor bored in out of the question, if anyone can help me out i would be thankful. ps my spelling is harible,

thanx

[180fan]

yes your spelling is indeed horrible.

You'll need a shop to cut those rusted sections out and weld in pieces to make your car complete again.

[rotorimp]

Shells for 240's are still cheap enough I would move on to another car!!!! If this was a Datsun roadster or a Jag my advise would be different!

[keep_it_movin]

lol ok, i think im a take that advise and start looking for another 240

[240punx]

lol ok, i think im a take that advise and start looking for another 240

Become friends with a body tech.

[Axel Grungy]

scrap it, its not worth the trouble

[project_240le]

my 91 240 has exactly the same problem. im planning on stripping the interior then taking out both of the floor panels and welding new ones in

[240punx]

This isn't all that of a big problem. It's not an import structure zone or doesn't support anything other than you're feet. There is a few easy and cost efficient methods of doing this repair. Your best options are going to be either rivet in sheet metal or fiberglass it.

[Bstrd240SX]

This isn't all that of a big problem. It's not an import structure zone or doesn't support anything other than you're feet. There is a few easy and cost efficient methods of doing this repair. Your best options are going to be either rivet in sheet metal or fiberglass it.

actually is a huge problem. floorboards in a unibody car ARE part of the structure, so are the seat brackets that run from rocker to rocker

the fact that his seats themselves are obviously leaning shows that a massive section of material has turned to swiss cheese

if he was to get into a car accident with this vehicle it would crumple around him like a blanket

one big metal blanket with an engine on one end and 10 gallons of gas on the other .... and it will leave you in a dirt bedroom (aka: a grave)

rivets are NOT an acceptable repair methodfiberglass is NOT an acceptable repair method

the only proper repair is welding in REAL replacement floors with real replacement brackets (aka floor braces)

and by real, I mean pieces that have been formed to replicate the strength of the originals, either oem or professionally built (race car fab shop) reproductions

the only time flat sheet should be used for the floor is when the car has a full tube chassis .... and that doesnt mean a 8 point cage either
Modified by Bstrd240SX at 4:26 PM 6/29/2007

[donram240sx]

I agree on getting another one. I have a 89 Coupe. It got hit in 4 different places all by ladies and it has som much rust now. I was going to get it fixed but it is cheaper just to get another one. I was lucky to find another 89 Coupe with about 100k for only $650. Problem is the head gasket is blown. But it doesn't matter, I am going to do a rebuild using the old Coupe also. Check out ebay, I saw some nice shells there.

[240punx]

actually is a huge problem. floorboards in a unibody car ARE part of the structure, so are the seat brackets that run from rocker to rocker

the fact that his seats themselves are obviously leaning shows that a massive section of material has turned to swiss cheese

if he was to get into a car accident with this vehicle it would crumple around him like a blanket

one big metal blanket with an engine on one end and 10 gallons of gas on the other .... and it will leave you in a dirt bedroom (aka: a grave)

rivets are NOT an acceptable repair methodfiberglass is NOT an acceptable repair method

the only proper repair is welding in REAL replacement floors with real replacement brackets (aka floor braces)

and by real, I mean pieces that have been formed to replicate the strength of the originals, either oem or professionally built (race car fab shop) reproductions

the only time flat sheet should be used for the floor is when the car has a full tube chassis .... and that doesnt mean a 8 point cage either

Modified by Bstrd240SX at 4:26 PM 6/29/2007

I guess i didn't read his entry all the way through. I was assuming it was just i minor whole near the pedals. But i have to disagree on the rivet. In my latest ICAR class they tell you that a steel rivet is just as strong if not stronger than a weld. and they also said that when replacing the floor panels in a unibody car the best method to be used is to panel metal adhesive.

[Bstrd240SX]

but you also have to use the right size and quality of rivet, those cheap 1/8 ones from the hardware store arent going to do the job properly,especialy if they are spaced to wide

panel adhesive is great stuff, i played with the lord fusor stuff at one point and it was indestructable. if you bond 2 peices of steel together and let it cure properly, you can beat on the bonded section with a sledge hammer till the metal is tissue paper thin and it still continues to hold together

but its also sort of expensive, and requires the panels be spotlessly clean before you bond them

[240punx]

but you also have to use the right size and quality of rivet, those cheap 1/8 ones from the hardware store arent going to do the job properly,especialy if they are spaced to wide

panel adhesive is great stuff, i played with the lord fusor stuff at one point and it was indestructable. if you bond 2 peices of steel together and let it cure properly, you can beat on the bonded section with a sledge hammer till the metal is tissue paper thin and it still continues to hold together

but its also sort of expensive, and requires the panels be spotlessly clean before you bond them

I guess i often forgot it's hard to buy the materials us in the industry get so easily.

[Metal Militia]

my 91 240 has exactly the same problem. im planning on stripping the interior then taking out both of the floor panels and welding new ones in

+1 I had to do this to a s14 i owned its not that bad way cheaper then buying a new car.

[project_240le]

+1 I had to do this to a s14 i owned its not that bad way cheaper then buying a new car.

so how did welding some new floor panels in work? what did you weld them to, and did you take out the old rusted ones, or just make a new panel over top of them?